Mustard Greens 'Southern Giant Curled'
Brassica juncea 'Southern Giant Curled'
A beloved heirloom variety that's been a Southern garden staple for over 100 years, producing massive yields of deeply frilled, bright green leaves. This heat-tolerant variety grows vigorously in conditions that would stress other greens, making it perfect for extending the harvest season. The young leaves are mild enough for salads, while mature leaves develop the characteristic peppery bite that makes them perfect for traditional Southern cooking.
Harvest
45-50d
Days to harvest
Sun
Full sun to partial shade
Zones
8–10
USDA hardiness
Height
12-18 inches
Planting Timeline
Showing dates for Mustard Greens 'Southern Giant Curled' in USDA Zone 7
All Zone 7 brassica →Zone Map
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Mustard Greens 'Southern Giant Curled' · Zones 8–10
Growing Details
Zone-by-Zone Planting Calendar
| Zone | Indoor Start | Transplant | Direct Sow | Harvest |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Zone 1 | April – May | June – July | June – July | July – September |
| Zone 2 | April – May | June – July | May – July | July – September |
| Zone 11 | January – January | January – February | January – February | February – December |
| Zone 12 | January – January | January – February | January – February | February – December |
| Zone 13 | January – January | January – February | January – February | February – December |
| Zone 3 | March – April | May – June | May – June | June – October |
| Zone 4 | March – April | May – June | April – June | June – October |
| Zone 5 | February – March | April – May | April – May | June – November |
| Zone 6 | February – March | April – May | April – May | May – November |
| Zone 7 | February – March | April – May | March – May | May – November |
| Zone 8 | January – February | March – April | March – April | April – December |
| Zone 9 | January – January | February – March | February – March | March – December |
| Zone 10 | January – January | February – March | January – March | March – December |
Succession Planting
Direct sow 'Southern Giant Curled' every 14–21 days starting mid-August through September for a fall run, then again from late February through early April for spring. Each sowing delivers a fresh flush at the 45–50 day mark before the prior planting toughens or bolts. Stop spring sowings once daytime highs are consistently reaching 75–80°F — above that threshold, mustard bolts quickly and the leaves turn sharp and bitter in a matter of days, not weeks.
For zones 8–10, succession can extend into October and even early November; plants slow down in cold but keep producing. The UGA Vegetable Garden Calendar recommends getting cool-season crops into prepared beds early in fall so germination happens before soil temps drop below 50°F — the low end for reliable emergence within the 5–10 day window on brassicas.
Complete Growing Guide
This heat-loving cultivar thrives in warm conditions where spring lettuces bolt prematurely, making it ideal for late spring through early fall planting in most regions. Unlike less robust mustard varieties, 'Southern Giant Curled' tolerates temperatures above 75°F without immediate bolting, though it still prefers consistent moisture to prevent premature flowering. Plant in full sun with rich, well-draining soil amended with compost, spacing plants 12 inches apart to accommodate their vigorous growth. Watch for flea beetles, which target young Brassica foliage—row covers during establishment prevent significant damage. This cultivar is notably resistant to the powdery mildew that affects other greens in humid conditions. For maximum yield and extended harvest, succession plant every two weeks rather than sowing all at once, and begin harvesting outer leaves once plants reach 6-8 inches tall, allowing continued growth from the center.
Light: Full sun (6 or more hours of direct sunlight a day), Partial Shade (Direct sunlight only part of the day, 2-6 hours). Soil: High Organic Matter. Soil pH: Neutral (6.0-8.0). Drainage: Good Drainage, Moist. Height: 1 ft. 0 in. - 1 ft. 6 in.. Spread: 1 ft. 0 in. - 1 ft. 6 in.. Spacing: Less than 12 inches. Growth rate: Rapid. Maintenance: Medium. Regions: Coastal, Mountains, Piedmont.
Harvesting
Harvest Southern Giant Curled mustard greens when the deeply frilled leaves reach 6-8 inches long and display their characteristic bright green color with a slight crinkled texture that indicates maturity. For tender young leaves suitable for salads, pick when plants are 30-35 days old, but allow them to reach full size at 45-50 days for the robust peppery flavor ideal for cooking. This variety responds exceptionally well to continuous harvesting—regularly pinching off outer leaves encourages vigorous branching and extends productivity over several weeks rather than a single harvest. Timing your morning harvest after dew dries but before heat peaks ensures the crispest, most flavorful leaves with maximum nutritional content.
Long pods with round, brown seeds. The fruits will dry and split when ripe. The seeds are harvested for use in condiments and oil.
Color: Brown/Copper. Type: Siliqua.
Garden value: Edible
Edibility: The leaves, seeds, flowers, and stems of this mustard variety are edible raw or cooked. Harvested leaves can be stored in the fridge for 3-5 days.
Storage & Preservation
Fresh mustard greens store best in the refrigerator wrapped in damp paper towels inside perforated plastic bags, maintaining quality for 5-7 days. Unlike delicate lettuce, Southern Giant's sturdy leaves hold up well to washing and storing wet. For longer preservation, blanch leaves in boiling water for 2 minutes, plunge into ice water, drain thoroughly, and freeze in portions – they'll keep 8-10 months frozen. Traditional Southern cooks often can mustard greens with a pressure canner, creating shelf-stable jars that capture the garden's bounty. Dehydrating works well too; dried mustard leaves can be ground into a spicy seasoning powder that adds kick to soups and stews throughout winter.
History & Origin
The Southern Giant Curled mustard greens emerged from the broader mustard greens breeding lines developed in the early 20th century, though specific documentation of its exact breeder and introduction year remains limited. This variety evolved within the American South's agricultural heritage, where mustard greens had long been cultivated as a staple crop suited to the region's warm climate. The "Southern Giant Curled" designation reflects selective breeding focused on maximizing leaf size and the deeply frilled leaf structure that characterizes the variety, traits particularly valued by Southern gardeners and farmers seeking vigorous plants capable of withstanding heat stress. While definitive historical records of its formal introduction are sparse, the variety's century-long presence in Southern gardens suggests it likely arose through either commercial seed company development or natural selection within regional farming communities during the early 1900s.
Origin: Russia to central Asia
Advantages
- +Massive yields of deeply frilled leaves perfect for Southern cooking traditions
- +Heat-tolerant variety thrives when other greens struggle in summer conditions
- +Versatile flavor profile ranges from mild salad greens to peppery mature leaves
- +Fast maturity in 45-50 days provides quick harvests and succession planting
- +Over 100-year heirloom pedigree ensures proven reliability in Southern gardens
Considerations
- -Vulnerable to multiple brassica pests including flea beetles and cabbage worms
- -Susceptible to serious diseases like clubroot and downy mildew in wet conditions
- -Mature leaves develop bitter flavor that some gardeners find too peppery
Companion Plants
Nasturtiums pull aphid colonies onto themselves and away from the mustard — the pests pile onto nasturtium stems so visibly that you can cut those stems off and drop them in soapy water rather than chasing aphids across your whole planting. French marigolds (Tagetes patula) are useful if you're cycling this bed back through brassicas year after year; NC State Extension recommends a solid planting of them in beds with nematode pressure before returning susceptible crops. Onions and garlic nearby add some pest confusion for cabbage worms and harlequin bugs without competing for the same root zone depth that mustard uses.
Tomatoes share soilborne pathogens with brassicas and hit their peak water demand at the same time 'Southern Giant Curled' needs consistent moisture — two plants fighting for the same resource at the same moment. Pole beans fix nitrogen aggressively enough to push mustard toward the soft, lush leaf growth that aphids target first. Strawberries are the quieter problem: their root exudates are allelopathic to brassicas and they'll outcompete mustard for moisture without making it obvious what's going wrong.
Plant Together
Nasturtiums
Acts as trap crop for flea beetles and aphids that commonly attack brassicas
Dill
Attracts beneficial insects like parasitic wasps that control cabbage worms
Onions
Repels cabbage maggots and aphids with strong sulfur compounds
Lettuce
Provides ground cover and utilizes different soil nutrients, maximizing space
Carrots
Loosens soil with deep taproot and doesn't compete for surface nutrients
Marigolds
Deters aphids, whiteflies, and nematodes with natural pest-repelling compounds
Spinach
Compatible growth habits and helps suppress weeds around mustard greens
Garlic
Natural fungicide properties help prevent clubroot and other brassica diseases
Keep Apart
Tomatoes
Can stunt growth of brassicas and compete for similar nutrients
Strawberries
Allelopathic interactions can inhibit mustard green growth and development
Pole Beans
Heavy nitrogen fixation can cause excessive leaf growth at expense of quality
Nutrition Facts
Per 100g serving. % Daily Value based on 2,000 calorie diet. Source: USDA FoodData Central (FDC #747447)
Pests & Disease Resistance
Resistance
Good heat tolerance, moderate resistance to downy mildew and white rust
Common Pests
Flea beetles, aphids, cabbage worms, harlequin bugs
Diseases
White rust, downy mildew, black rot, clubroot
Troubleshooting Mustard Greens 'Southern Giant Curled'
What you'll see, why it happens, and what to do about it.
Small, irregular holes punched through leaves on seedlings, especially in warm spells during early fall or spring planting
Likely Causes
- Flea beetles (Phyllotreta spp.) — adults overwinter in soil and leaf litter, jump to new transplants fast
- Dry soil stress, which thins the leaf cuticle and makes feeding damage worse
What to Do
- 1.Cover transplants immediately with row cover (Reemay or similar) and seal the edges — flea beetles will find any gap
- 2.Keep soil consistently moist; stressed plants take much longer to outgrow the damage
- 3.If pressure is severe, spinosad spray (OMRI-listed) applied in early morning gives reasonable knockdown
White, chalky pustules on the upper leaf surface, with a pale patch on the underside, appearing in cool, wet weather
Likely Causes
- White rust (Albugo candida) — a water mold that spreads through splash and wind, not a true fungus
- Tight spacing under 8 inches that cuts airflow and keeps foliage damp
What to Do
- 1.Pull and bag infected leaves — do not compost them, as Albugo candida oospores persist in soil
- 2.Space plants to the full 12-inch end of the recommended range and switch to drip irrigation or morning watering
- 3.Rotate out of all brassicas for at least 2 seasons in that bed
Yellowing leaves with a grayish-purple fuzzy growth on the underside, moving from older outer leaves inward
Likely Causes
- Downy mildew (Peronospora parasitica) — favored by temperatures between 50–60°F and wet nights, common in fall plantings
- Overhead watering late in the day that keeps foliage wet overnight
What to Do
- 1.Water in the morning so leaves dry before nightfall; switch to drip if overhead irrigation is the habit
- 2.Strip affected outer leaves and put them in the trash, not the compost pile
- 3.Thin the planting to improve airflow — rows packed closer than 8 inches are where this takes hold fastest
Leaf margins turning yellow then brown, with V-shaped lesions pointing inward along the midrib, starting on the outermost leaves
Likely Causes
- Black rot (Xanthomonas campestris pv. campestris) — a bacterial disease that enters through leaf margins and water pores, spreads fast in wet conditions
- Using saved seed from infected plants, which carries the pathogen into the next planting
What to Do
- 1.Remove and bag affected leaves immediately — black rot can move across an entire bed within a week once established
- 2.Avoid working in the planting when foliage is wet; hands and tools carry bacteria plant to plant
- 3.Don't save seed from any plant showing symptoms; keep brassicas out of that bed for 2 full seasons
Frequently Asked Questions
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Growing Guides from Wind River Greens
Where to Buy Seeds
Sources & References
External authority sources used in compiling this guide.
See the Methodology page for how this data is sourced, what's AI-assisted, and known limitations.