Padron Pepper
Capsicum annuum
Named after the town where they originated. Harvest Padron peppers when they are 1-1 1/2" long. About 1 out of 20 fruits will be hot, and the rest mild. All the fruits become hot if allowed to grow 2-3" long. Typically sautéed in olive oil with a little sea salt and eaten as tapas (appetizers) in Spain.
Harvest
60d
Days to harvest
Sun
Full sun
Zones
4–11
USDA hardiness
Height
1-3 feet
Planting Timeline
Showing dates for Padron Pepper in USDA Zone 7
All Zone 7 pepper →Zone Map
Click a state to update dates
Padron Pepper · Zones 4–11
Growing Details
Zone-by-Zone Planting Calendar
| Zone | Indoor Start | Transplant | Direct Sow | Harvest |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Zone 3 | April – April | June – July | — | August – October |
| Zone 4 | March – April | June – June | — | August – October |
| Zone 5 | March – March | May – June | — | August – October |
| Zone 6 | March – March | May – June | — | July – September |
| Zone 7 | February – March | April – May | — | July – September |
| Zone 8 | February – February | April – May | — | June – August |
| Zone 9 | January – January | March – April | — | May – July |
| Zone 10 | January – January | February – March | — | May – July |
| Zone 1 | May – May | July – August | — | September – August |
| Zone 2 | April – May | June – July | — | September – September |
| Zone 11 | January – January | January – February | — | April – June |
| Zone 12 | January – January | January – February | — | April – June |
| Zone 13 | January – January | January – February | — | April – June |
Succession Planting
Padróns keep producing from a single planting as long as you pick them small — around 1–2 inches, before they turn red — so succession planting isn't really necessary. One round of transplants set out in April to early May in zone 7 will carry you through July, August, and into September.
That said, if your first planting takes heavy bacterial spot pressure or gets knocked back early, you can start a second round of seeds indoors in late March and have backup transplants ready by late May. Don't push transplants out past late May in Georgia — plants set out in June rarely size up and fruit as well before heat-stress starts compressing the harvest window.
Complete Growing Guide
Harvest Padron peppers at the 1-1½ inch stage to enjoy their signature mild flavor with an unpredictable spicy surprise—only about 1 in 20 fruits will be hot at this size, making them ideal for tapas. Allow them to grow beyond 2-3 inches only if you prefer consistently hot peppers. These plants mature quickly in 60 days and thrive in warm conditions with full sun and well-draining soil, requiring standard pepper care regarding watering and fertilization. They show no unusual susceptibility to major pests or diseases compared to other Capsicum annuum varieties. One practical tip: succession plant every two weeks during warm months to ensure continuous harvests of small, tender peppers at peak eating quality, since many gardeners find the diminutive size requires frequent picking to maintain the preferred mild-pepper ratio.
Light: Full sun (6 or more hours of direct sunlight a day). Soil: Clay, High Organic Matter, Loam (Silt), Sand. Soil pH: Acid (<6.0), Alkaline (>8.0), Neutral (6.0-8.0). Drainage: Good Drainage. Height: 1 ft. 0 in. - 3 ft. 8 in.. Spread: 0 ft. 6 in. - 1 ft. 0 in.. Spacing: 12 inches-3 feet. Growth rate: Medium. Maintenance: Low. Propagation: Seed. Regions: Coastal, Mountains, Piedmont.
Harvesting
Harvest Padron peppers when they reach 1 to 1½ inches long and display a bright green color with a slightly waxy skin texture. At this stage, the peppers feel firm but tender to the touch, signaling peak readiness for the mild flavor most diners prefer. For optimal results, practice continuous harvesting by picking mature peppers every few days rather than waiting for a single large harvest, which encourages the plant to produce more fruit throughout the season. Timing is crucial: allow peppers to grow beyond 2 to 3 inches and they become noticeably hotter, shifting from the desirable mild profile to predominantly spicy fruit. Regular picking maintains plant vigor and extends your harvest window.
Fruits are a non-pulpy berry and vary considerably across cultivars. Some are long, thin, bright red, and spicy; others are thick, large, and sweet-tasting; others still are small and in ornamental shapes and colors, grown as decoration.
Color: Black, Gold/Yellow, Green, Orange, Red/Burgundy. Type: Berry. Length: 1-3 inches. Width: < 1 inch.
Garden value: Edible, Good Dried, Showy
Harvest time: Summer
Edibility: Fruits edible, but spiciness is unpredictable in intensity.
Storage & Preservation
Store fresh Padron peppers in a perforated plastic bag in the refrigerator at 45–50°F with 90–95% humidity for optimal longevity. They'll keep for two to three weeks under these conditions, though they're best used within the first week when texture remains crisp. For longer preservation, freeze whole peppers on a baking sheet before transferring to freezer bags; they work well in cooked dishes despite losing some firmness. Pickling is ideal for this variety—the mild flesh takes on vinegar beautifully while occasional hot peppers add complexity. For pickling, blanch small whole peppers briefly, pack into sterilized jars with garlic and spices, then cover with hot vinegar brine. Drying is less common but worthwhile for the occasional hot specimens; air-dry or use a dehydrator at 135–145°F until brittle. A gardener's note: harvest Padrons when small and tender (two to three inches), as they're more flavorful and tender at this stage than when fully mature, and they freeze particularly well at this size.
History & Origin
The Padron pepper originated in the Galicia region of northwestern Spain, specifically in the town of Padrón, from which it takes its name. This variety emerged within a Spanish heritage pepper tradition rather than through formal modern breeding programs, with documentation of its specific origins remaining limited. The peppers became deeply embedded in Spanish culinary culture, particularly in Galicia, where they developed a reputation as a beloved tapa ingredient. While the exact lineage and date of emergence are not well-documented in available horticultural records, the variety represents a traditional Spanish landrace that has been cultivated and selected locally for generations, reflecting the adaptability and mild flavor characteristics valued by regional growers and cooks.
Origin: Tropical North and South America
Advantages
- +Quick 60-day harvest makes them ideal for short growing seasons
- +Exciting surprise factor with occasional hot peppers keeps eating interesting
- +Perfect size for tapas when harvested at 1-1.5 inches long
- +Easy difficulty level means beginners can grow successfully
- +Versatile heat profile allows control by adjusting harvest timing
Considerations
- -Susceptible to multiple pests including aphids, flea beetles, and spider mites
- -Vulnerable to serious diseases like bacterial spot and pepper mosaic virus
- -Only about 5% of peppers are naturally hot at optimal harvest size
- -Require careful monitoring to prevent all fruits from becoming hot
Companion Plants
Basil is the most practical companion here — plant it 12 inches off to the side along the same row. The two crops want nearly identical water and fertility, so they're easy to manage together without adjusting your irrigation schedule. Marigolds (French marigolds, Tagetes patula specifically) pull their weight by attracting beneficial soil nematodes and acting as a trap crop for spider mites. In our zone 7 Georgia garden, spider mite pressure spikes hard once daytime highs push past 90°F in July, so having marigolds as a sacrificial lure a row over buys you time before the mites find your peppers. Nasturtiums do something similar for aphids — they'll colonize the nasturtiums first, giving you an early warning and a concentrated spot to treat rather than chasing aphids across the whole bed.
Fennel produces allelopathic root compounds that suppress growth in most vegetable neighbors, and Padróns are not an exception — give it its own container or a bed at least 24 inches away from any pepper row. Black walnut trees (Juglans nigra) release juglone through their roots and decomposing leaf litter, which will stunt or kill peppers planted anywhere inside the drip line. If you have one on your property, keep your pepper bed well outside that root zone — and remember the roots typically extend well past the canopy edge.
Plant Together
Basil
Repels aphids, spider mites, and thrips while potentially enhancing pepper flavor
Marigold
Deters nematodes, aphids, and whiteflies with strong scent compounds
Tomato
Similar growing requirements and can share support structures
Oregano
Repels pests like cucumber beetles and provides ground cover
Nasturtium
Acts as trap crop for aphids and adds beneficial insects
Carrots
Deep roots don't compete and help break up soil for pepper roots
Parsley
Attracts beneficial insects like hoverflies and parasitic wasps
Chives
Repels aphids and may improve pepper growth and flavor
Keep Apart
Fennel
Releases allelopathic compounds that inhibit pepper growth
Walnut Trees
Produce juglone toxin that stunts or kills pepper plants
Brassicas
Compete for similar nutrients and may stunt pepper development
Nutrition Facts
Per 100g serving. % Daily Value based on 2,000 calorie diet. Source: USDA FoodData Central (FDC #169394)
Pests & Disease Resistance
Resistance
Good resistance to common pepper ailments
Common Pests
Aphids, flea beetles, pepper weevil, spider mites
Diseases
Bacterial spot, pepper mosaic virus, anthracnose
Troubleshooting Padron Pepper
What you'll see, why it happens, and what to do about it.
Dark, sunken lesions on fruit — sometimes with water-soaked margins — and small raised scabs on leaves
Likely Causes
- Bacterial spot (Xanthomonas campestris pv. vesicatoria) — spreads fast in warm, wet weather
- Overhead irrigation splashing infected soil onto foliage
What to Do
- 1.Switch to drip irrigation or water at the base only
- 2.Apply a copper-based bactericide at first sign; reapply after heavy rain
- 3.Pull and bag badly infected plants — don't compost them — and rotate that bed out of nightshades for at least 2 seasons per NC State Extension's organic disease guidance
Flat, dry, tan or black patch on the bottom (blossom end) of the fruit, sometimes spreading up the side
Likely Causes
- Blossom end rot — a localized calcium deficiency in the developing fruit, not always a soil calcium shortage
- Uneven watering or drought stress that blocks calcium uptake
- Excess ammonium nitrogen fertilizer competing with calcium absorption
What to Do
- 1.Water consistently — 1 inch per week, no boom-and-bust cycles; mulch heavily before dry spells hit, ideally by the time plants begin blooming (UGA Extension recommends mulching peppers before dry spells occur)
- 2.Get a soil test before adding calcium amendments; if pH is already 6.0–7.0 and calcium is adequate, the fix is water management, not lime
- 3.Back off high-nitrogen synthetic fertilizers, especially ammonium-based ones, during fruit set
Leaves mottled yellow-green or crinkled, fruit small and misshapen, plants generally stunted
Likely Causes
- Pepper mosaic virus transmitted by aphids feeding on infected plants nearby
- Aphid colonies on new growth acting as the vector
What to Do
- 1.Check the undersides of young leaves for aphid colonies and knock them off with a firm stream of water or treat with insecticidal soap
- 2.Pull any visibly infected plants immediately — there's no cure once a plant is infected
- 3.Lay reflective silver mulch at the base of plants; aphids avoid landing on the silvered surface, which cuts transmission rates considerably
Small, round holes punched through leaves on young transplants, often appearing within the first 2–3 weeks after setting out
Likely Causes
- Flea beetles (Epitrix spp.) — tiny, jumping beetles that overwinter in soil and go straight for tender new growth
- Transplants set out before they're fully hardened off are especially vulnerable
What to Do
- 1.Cover transplants with row cover immediately after planting and leave it on for the first 3–4 weeks
- 2.Apply kaolin clay as a deterrent if flea beetle pressure has been bad in this bed before
- 3.Once plants reach 12 inches tall and have real leaf mass, flea beetle feeding rarely threatens the overall plant — concentrate protection on that first month
Frequently Asked Questions
How long do Padron peppers take to grow from seed?▼
Can you grow Padron peppers in containers?▼
Why are some Padron peppers hot and others mild?▼
When should I plant Padron pepper seeds?▼
Are Padron peppers good for beginner gardeners?▼
What do Padron peppers taste like?▼
Growing Guides from Wind River Greens
Where to Buy Seeds
Sources & References
External authority sources used in compiling this guide.
See the Methodology page for how this data is sourced, what's AI-assisted, and known limitations.
More Peppers
Carolina Reaper
Sweet Pepper 'Carmen'
Ghost Pepper 'Bhut Jolokia'
Scotch Bonnet 'Scotch Bonnet Orange'
Chocolate Habanero
Sweet Italian Pepper 'Marconi Rosso'
Purple Beauty Bell Pepper
Mad Hatter