Planting Timeline
Showing dates for Sugar Ann in USDA Zone 7
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Sugar Ann · Zones 2–10
Growing Details
Zone-by-Zone Planting Calendar
| Zone | Indoor Start | Transplant | Direct Sow | Harvest |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Zone 3 | — | — | April – May | June – July |
| Zone 4 | — | — | April – May | June – July |
| Zone 5 | — | — | March – May | May – July |
| Zone 6 | — | — | March – April | May – June |
| Zone 7 | — | — | March – April | April – June |
| Zone 8 | — | — | February – March | April – May |
| Zone 9 | — | — | January – February | March – April |
| Zone 10 | — | — | December – January | February – March |
Complete Growing Guide
Start Sugar Ann peas by preparing your garden bed in early spring when soil can be worked but is still cool. Work compost or aged manure into the soil to a depth of 6-8 inches, ensuring good drainage since peas hate waterlogged conditions. If your soil is heavy clay, consider raised beds or add coarse sand to improve drainage.
Direct sow seeds 2-4 weeks before your last frost date when soil temperature reaches 45°F. Plant seeds 1-2 inches deep and 2 inches apart in rows spaced 6 inches apart. In zones 3-5, wait until mid-March to early April. Zones 6-8 can plant as early as February. Soak seeds overnight before planting to speed germination, but skip this step if soil is very wet.
Unlike taller pea varieties, Sugar Ann's dwarf 18-24 inch height means you can skip trellising, but providing light support with short stakes or a small fence will keep pods off the ground and make harvesting easier. Install supports at planting time to avoid disturbing roots later.
Fertilize lightly at planting with a balanced organic fertilizer (10-10-10), then avoid nitrogen-heavy feeds since peas fix their own nitrogen. Side-dress with compost or bone meal when flowers appear to boost pod production. Overfeeding with nitrogen will give you lush foliage but fewer pods.
Water consistently but moderately—about 1 inch per week. Mulch around plants once they're 4 inches tall to retain moisture and suppress weeds. Avoid overhead watering which can promote fungal diseases.
Common mistakes include planting too late in spring (heat stops pod production), overcrowding (leads to poor air circulation and disease), and harvesting too late (pods become tough and starchy). For continuous harvest, make succession plantings every 2 weeks until 8 weeks before hot weather arrives. In fall, plant 10-12 weeks before hard frost for a second crop.
Harvesting
Begin checking Sugar Ann pods 50-55 days after planting when they're bright green and about 2-3 inches long. The pods should feel firm and plump but not bulging—you want to catch them before the peas inside become prominent bumps. Test readiness by gently bending a pod; it should snap crisply rather than bend limply.
Harvest in early morning when pods are crisp and full of moisture. Hold the vine with one hand and gently twist pods upward and away from the stem with the other—never pull straight down as this can damage the plant and reduce future yields. Sugar Ann pods should come away easily when ready.
Pick every 2-3 days once harvest begins to encourage continued production. Even if you don't need all the pods, keep harvesting to prevent the plant from going to seed. Look for pods that are glossy and bright green—avoid any that appear dull, yellowed, or have visible pea outlines bulging through the pod wall, as these will be tough and starchy.
Storage & Preservation
Fresh Sugar Ann pods maintain peak quality for 3-5 days when stored in perforated plastic bags in the refrigerator at 32-35°F with high humidity. Don't wash before storing as moisture promotes decay.
For longer storage, blanch whole pods in boiling water for 2 minutes, plunge into ice water, drain thoroughly, and freeze in airtight containers for up to 8 months. Sugar Ann's stringless pods are perfect for freezing whole—no trimming needed.
Dehydrating works well too: blanch briefly, pat dry, and dehydrate at 125°F for 8-12 hours until crisp. Store dried pods in airtight jars for adding to soups and stews. Avoid canning Sugar Ann pods as the heat processing makes them mushy and destroys their signature crisp texture that makes this variety special.
History & Origin
Sugar Ann was developed by Dr. Calvin Lamborn at Twin Falls, Idaho in the 1970s as part of his groundbreaking work creating edible-pod peas. Lamborn, often called the "father of the sugar snap pea," was working to combine the best traits of snow peas and shelling peas when he created this compact variety.
Released commercially in 1984, Sugar Ann won the All-America Selections award that same year, marking a revolution in home garden pea growing. Before Sugar Ann, gardeners wanting fresh snap peas had to dedicate significant space to tall, climbing varieties that required substantial trellising.
Lamborn's breeding program focused on creating a dwarf variety that maintained the exceptional sweetness and crispness of full-sized sugar snaps while fitting into small gardens and containers. Sugar Ann became the first truly successful compact snap pea, opening up this crop to apartment dwellers, elderly gardeners, and anyone with limited space or mobility issues. The variety represents a milestone in making high-quality vegetables accessible to more gardeners.
Advantages
- +Requires no trellising or staking unlike traditional pea varieties
- +Delivers full-sized flavor and sweetness in just 18-24 inches of height
- +Excellent cold tolerance allows very early spring planting
- +Stringless pods need no prep work before eating or cooking
- +Heavy yields for such a compact plant—often 50+ pods per plant
- +Built-in resistance to powdery mildew and fusarium wilt
- +Perfect container variety for patios and small spaces
Considerations
- -Shorter harvest window compared to indeterminate climbing varieties
- -Stops producing quickly once hot weather arrives
- -Lower total yield per square foot than tall varieties with extended harvest
- -Can be prone to aphid infestations due to compact growth habit
Companion Plants
Plant Together
Carrots
Peas improve soil nitrogen for carrots, while carrots help break up soil for pea roots
Radishes
Quick-growing radishes help break up soil and can be harvested before peas need the space
Lettuce
Cool-season crop that grows well in pea shade and benefits from nitrogen fixed by peas
Cilantro
Attracts beneficial insects like parasitic wasps that control pea pests
Spinach
Shares similar growing conditions and benefits from nitrogen fixation by pea roots
Chives
Repels aphids and other pests that commonly attack pea plants
Marigolds
Attract beneficial insects and help deter harmful nematodes in the soil
Mint
Deters ants and aphids, though should be contained to prevent spreading
Keep Apart
Garlic
Allelopathic compounds can stunt pea growth and interfere with beneficial root bacteria
Gladiolus
Competes heavily for nutrients and can harbor thrips that damage pea pods
Onions
Can inhibit pea growth and nitrogen fixation through root secretions
Pests & Disease Resistance
Resistance
Good resistance to powdery mildew and fusarium wilt
Common Pests
Aphids, pea weevil, cutworms, thrips
Diseases
Powdery mildew, root rot, bacterial blight, downy mildew