Heirloom

Common Valerian

Valeriana officinalis

Wikimedia Commons

Common variety, naturalized in some areas. Root used for anxiety, insomnia, and pain relief. Also known as garden heliotrope, cat's valerian, setwell, and St. George's herb.

Harvest

500-550d

Days to harvest

📅

Sun

Full sun

☀️

Zones

4–7

USDA hardiness

🗺️

Height

3-5 feet

📏

Planting Timeline

Zone:

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

Start Indoors

Transplant

Harvest

Start Indoors

Transplant

Harvest

Showing dates for Common Valerian in USDA Zone 7

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Zone Map

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Common Valerian · Zones 4–7

What grows well in Zone 7? →

Growing Details

Difficulty

Easy

Spacing18–24 inches

SoilWell-drained loam or poor soil; tolerates clay and gravelly conditions

WaterRegular moisture during first season; drought-tolerant once established

SeasonPerennial

FlavorEarthy, bitter root with slight peppery undertones; aroma is strong and grounding

ColorTan to brown (dried roots)

Zone-by-Zone Planting Calendar

Zone	Indoor Start	Transplant	Direct Sow	Harvest
Zone 3	April – May	June – July	—	July – October
Zone 4	March – April	June – July	—	July – October
Zone 5	March – April	May – June	—	June – October
Zone 6	March – April	May – June	—	June – November
Zone 7	February – March	April – June	—	June – November
Zone 8	February – March	April – May	—	May – December
Zone 9	January – February	March – April	—	April – December
Zone 10	January – January	February – April	—	April – December

Complete Growing Guide

Light: Full sun (6 or more hours of direct sunlight a day). Soil: Clay, Loam (Silt), Sand. Soil pH: Acid (<6.0), Alkaline (>8.0), Neutral (6.0-8.0). Drainage: Good Drainage, Occasionally Dry, Occasionally Wet. Height: 3 ft. 0 in. - 5 ft. 0 in.. Spread: 2 ft. 0 in. - 4 ft. 0 in.. Spacing: 12 inches-3 feet, 3 feet-6 feet. Growth rate: Rapid. Maintenance: Medium. Propagation: Division, Seed. Regions: Mountains, Piedmont.

Harvesting

Winged seeds are spread by the wind

Edibility: Roots for flavoring and as a tranquilizing herbal medicine

Storage & Preservation

# Storage and Preservation

Freshly harvested valerian root keeps best in cool, humid conditions between 32–40°F in breathable containers lined with damp sand or peat moss; avoid plastic bags that encourage rot. Fresh roots maintain quality for 2–3 weeks under these conditions before declining. Drying is the preferred preservation method—wash, slice roots lengthwise, and air-dry in a warm, well-ventilated space or use a dehydrator set to 95–105°F until brittle, typically 2–3 weeks. Store dried root in airtight glass jars away from light and heat for up to two years. Freezing works adequately for whole roots placed in freezer bags, though texture deteriorates upon thawing. Valerian's pungent compounds intensify slightly during drying, making dried preparations more potent than fresh material—account for this when calculating herbal doses.

History & Origin

Common Valerian is open-pollinated, meaning seed saved from healthy plants will produce true-to-type offspring. Listed in the Johnny's Selected Seeds catalog.

Origin: Europe, Asia

Advantages

+Attracts: Bees, Butterflies
+Edible: Roots for flavoring and as a tranquilizing herbal medicine
+Fast-growing

Companion Plants

Valerian's reputation as a broad garden ally is mostly earned. Its roots release phosphorus-rich exudates that benefit heavy feeders like tomatoes and cabbage planted nearby, and its flower stalks — which reach 3–5 feet by the second year — pull in predatory wasps and hoverflies that work through aphid populations across the surrounding beds. That pairs well with a principle NC State Extension's IPM guidelines make explicit: mixing plant families dilutes the chemical cues that crop-specific pests follow, slowing their spread and giving you time to act. In zone 7 Georgia, where pest pressure from spring and summer buildups peaks hard in August and September, that kind of buffering matters more than people expect.

Skip planting valerian near onions, garlic, or radishes. Alliums produce sulfur compounds that appear to suppress valerian's root development — and since the root is the whole point of growing this plant (you're looking at 500–550 days before harvest), that's not a trade-off worth making. Radishes are a different problem: they're aggressive competitors in the top 6–8 inches of soil, which is exactly where valerian spends its slow first-season establishment.

Plant Together

Tomatoes

Valerian improves tomato growth and enhances fruit flavor through root secretions

Carrots

Valerian enhances carrot growth and improves soil structure with its deep taproot

Lettuce

Provides beneficial shade for cool-season lettuce while attracting beneficial insects

Cabbage

Attracts beneficial insects that help control cabbage pests like cabbage worms

Beans

Valerian attracts pollinators and beneficial insects while beans fix nitrogen in soil

Strawberries

Enhances strawberry growth and flavor while attracting beneficial predatory insects

Herbs

Works well with most culinary herbs, creating beneficial microclimate and pest control

Roses

Attracts beneficial insects and may help improve rose health and fragrance

Keep Apart

Radishes

May inhibit radish germination and growth through allelopathic compounds

Onions

Strong sulfur compounds from onions can interfere with valerian's growth

Garlic

Allelopathic effects from garlic can suppress valerian's delicate seedling development

Nutrition Facts

Calories

23kcal(1%)

Protein

3.15g(6%)

Fiber

1.6g(6%)

Carbs

2.65g(1%)

Fat

0.64g(1%)

Vitamin C

18mg(20%)

Vitamin A

264mcg(29%)

Vitamin K

415mcg(346%)

Iron

3.17mg(18%)

Calcium

177mg(14%)

Potassium

295mg(6%)

Per 100g serving. % Daily Value based on 2,000 calorie diet. Source: USDA FoodData Central (FDC #172232)

Pests & Disease Resistance

Common Pests

Rarely troubled; occasional spider mites in very dry conditions

Diseases

Fungal root rot in poorly drained soil; powdery mildew in humid, stagnant air

Troubleshooting Common Valerian

What you'll see, why it happens, and what to do about it.

Seedlings collapse at soil level — stems pinched, blackened, and shrunken — within the first 2 weeks of germination

Likely Causes

Damping off (Pythium or Rhizoctonia spp.) — fungal pathogens that thrive in wet, poorly drained seed-starting mix
Overwatering combined with low airflow around trays

What to Do

1.Pull and discard affected seedlings immediately — they won't recover
2.Water from the bottom only, and let the top inch of mix dry between waterings
3.Run a small fan near your seed trays for 30–60 minutes a day to keep air moving

Roots turn brown and slimy; plant wilts even when soil is wet; crown looks soft at the base

Likely Causes

Fungal root rot (Pythium spp. or Phytophthora spp.) from chronically waterlogged soil
Heavy clay soil or a low spot in the bed that holds standing water after rain

What to Do

1.Dig the plant and check the roots — if more than half are brown and mushy, discard the plant and amend the bed before replanting
2.Work 3–4 inches of compost into the planting area and consider raising the bed 6–8 inches to improve drainage
3.Relocate valerian to a spot with at least a 1–2% slope so water doesn't pool at the crown

White powdery coating on leaves and upper stems, typically appearing in late summer or early fall

Likely Causes

Powdery mildew (Erysiphe spp.) — a fungal disease that spreads in humid, stagnant air, especially when nights cool but days stay warm
Planting tighter than the recommended 18–24 inch spacing, which cuts airflow between plants

What to Do

1.Cut affected stems back to the basal rosette and put them in the trash, not the compost pile
2.NC State Extension's IPM guidelines point to improved air circulation as the most reliable fix — thin surrounding plants or move tall neighboring crops that are boxing in the area
3.A diluted neem oil spray (2 tsp per gallon of water) applied every 7 days can slow spread on plants that aren't yet heavily infected

Leaf edges browning and curling upward; fine webbing visible on the undersides of leaves during a dry stretch

Likely Causes

Spider mites (Tetranychus urticae) — almost always show up during drought stress, particularly on plants that have gone more than 2 weeks without rain or irrigation
Dusty, dry conditions near paths or field edges where predatory insects are scarce

What to Do

1.Hit the undersides of leaves with a strong stream of water from a hose — mites don't recover well from that
2.Keep soil consistently moist through the first full season; established valerian handles dry spells, but stressed first-year plants are much more vulnerable
3.If populations are heavy, apply insecticidal soap (follow label dilution) every 5–7 days for 2–3 applications

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does common valerian take to grow before I can harvest roots?▼

Common valerian requires patience: roots reach maturity in 18–24 months, typically harvestable in autumn of the second year. First-year plants develop a strong root system but lack sufficient size and potency for meaningful harvest. Beginning in year two, you can sustainably harvest portions of roots while leaving smaller ones to regenerate, extending harvests indefinitely.

Can you grow common valerian in containers?▼

Yes, but with caveats. Use a large pot (12+ inches deep, 18+ inches wide) filled with well-draining potting mix. Container plants dry faster, so water more frequently during establishment. Root development is slightly restricted compared to garden soil, potentially reducing potency. Containers work best for short-term growing; permanent outdoor planting in garden soil maximizes root strength and harvest volume.

Is common valerian good for beginner gardeners?▼

Absolutely. Valerian is one of the most forgiving perennial herbs—it tolerates poor soil, inconsistent watering once established, and neglect. Pests rarely trouble it, and diseases are uncommon. The main requirement is patience: allow two years before expecting a harvest. Beyond that, it virtually gardening itself, making it ideal for low-maintenance growing.

Does common valerian self-seed, and is that a problem?▼

Yes, it self-seeds prolifically if allowed to flower and mature seed heads. For many gardeners, this is a feature, not a bug—it creates a naturalized herb patch. However, if you want to contain it, deadhead spent flower clusters before seeds mature. Seedlings are easy to pull when young, or leave them and thin as needed.

What's the difference between common valerian and red valerian?▼

Common Valerian (Valeriana officinalis) has pink-white flower clusters and is grown for medicinal roots with genuine phytochemical benefits. Red Valerian (Centranthus ruber) is purely ornamental, features showy deep-pink flowers, and produces no usable medicinal compounds. They are unrelated species; common valerian is the true medicinal herb.

When should I plant common valerian seeds?▼

Start seeds indoors 6–8 weeks before your last spring frost for transplanting after frost danger passes. Alternatively, direct sow in spring once soil is workable (50°F+). In warmer zones (8+), early fall seeding allows roots to establish over winter. Seeds need light and consistent moisture to germinate; expect sprouts in 14–21 days.