Pampas Grass
Cortaderia selloana

A dramatic ornamental grass that creates stunning focal points with its towering plumes of creamy-white to pink feathery flowers. This fast-growing perennial forms impressive clumps that add movement and texture to landscapes while providing excellent privacy screening. The showy plumes are highly prized for dried flower arrangements and last for months when cut.
Sun
Full sun to partial shade
Zones
6–10
USDA hardiness
Height
6-12 feet
Planting Timeline
Showing dates for Pampas Grass in USDA Zone 7
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Pampas Grass · Zones 6–10
Growing Details
Zone-by-Zone Planting Calendar
Complete Growing Guide
Light: Full sun (6 or more hours of direct sunlight a day), Partial Shade (Direct sunlight only part of the day, 2-6 hours). Soil: Clay, High Organic Matter, Loam (Silt), Sand, Shallow Rocky. Soil pH: Acid (<6.0), Alkaline (>8.0), Neutral (6.0-8.0). Drainage: Good Drainage, Moist, Occasionally Dry, Occasionally Wet, Very Dry. Height: 6 ft. 0 in. - 12 ft. 0 in.. Spread: 4 ft. 0 in. - 6 ft. 9 in.. Growth rate: Rapid. Maintenance: High, Medium. Regions: Coastal.
Harvesting
Bloom time: Fall, Summer, Winter
Storage & Preservation
For fresh plumes, display in water indoors away from direct sunlight to extend vase life to 2-3 weeks. Store cut stems in a cool location (65-70°F) with low humidity to prevent mold. Shelf life varies by conditions but typically lasts 3 months fresh. Preservation methods: (1) Air dry bundles upside down in a dark, well-ventilated space for 2-4 weeks to create long-lasting dried arrangements; (2) Glycerin treatment—submerge stems in glycerin solution for week-long absorption to maintain flexibility and color; (3) Spray with clear acrylic sealant once dried to protect plumes from shedding and extend display life indefinitely.
History & Origin
Cortaderia selloana originates from the temperate grasslands of South America, particularly the Pampas region of Argentina and Uruguay, where it evolved naturally in vast open plains. The species was first documented scientifically in the nineteenth century and subsequently introduced to European gardens during the Victorian era, where it became highly fashionable as an ornamental specimen. The plant spread rapidly throughout temperate regions worldwide due to its dramatic appearance and adaptability. While specific cultivar breeding programs and named selections have been developed since its introduction to horticulture, detailed documentation of individual breeders or the exact years of cultivar development remains limited in readily available historical records.
Origin: South America
Advantages
- +Creates dramatic focal points with towering creamy-white to pink feathery plumes
- +Fast-growing perennial that quickly forms impressive clumps for privacy screening
- +Feathery plumes last months when cut, perfect for dried arrangements
- +Easy to grow with minimal pest and disease problems in good conditions
- +Adds stunning movement and texture to landscapes year-round
Considerations
- -Requires well-drained soil or susceptible to root rot in wet conditions
- -Can spread aggressively and become invasive in mild climates
- -Extremely tall growth requires adequate space and can shade nearby plants
- -Sharp leaf edges pose safety hazard, especially around children and pets
Companion Plants
Drought-tolerant Mediterranean plants — lavender, rosemary, ornamental sage, and Russian sage — are the most sensible neighbors here. They share a preference for lean, well-drained soil and full sun, and none of them will compete aggressively for water. Yucca, agave, and sedum work on the same logic: low moisture demand, similar pH tolerance across the 6.0–8.0 range, and a mature spread that doesn't crowd the 6-8 feet a full-grown clump needs to breathe.
The harmful pairings have real teeth. Small trees and shrubs planted within 8-10 feet will eventually lose the light competition once pampas grass hits its stride, and its serrated leaves can abrade tender bark during wind. Vegetable beds are a bad match because Cortaderia selloana reseeds prolifically — you don't want volunteer clumps pushing up between your tomatoes. Native grassland plantings are the sharpest concern: NC State Extension and USDA both flag this species as highly invasive in California and the Pacific Northwest, where wind-dispersed seeds move into adjacent natural areas fast.
Plant Together
Lavender
Both are drought-tolerant and create attractive textural contrast in ornamental landscapes
Rosemary
Similar water requirements and Mediterranean climate preferences, complementary growth habits
Ornamental Sage
Drought-tolerant perennial that provides colorful flowers against pampas grass backdrop
Yucca
Both thrive in poor soils with minimal water, create striking architectural garden design
Sedum
Low-growing succulent that complements tall pampas grass while sharing drought tolerance
Ornamental Alliums
Early season interest before pampas grass reaches full height, both prefer well-drained soils
Russian Sage
Similar height and airy texture, both are low-maintenance and drought-resistant
Agave
Complementary water needs and creates dramatic focal points in xerophytic gardens
Keep Apart
Small Trees and Shrubs
Pampas grass can outcompete and suppress nearby woody plants through aggressive root system
Vegetable Gardens
Allelopathic properties may inhibit vegetable growth and roots compete for nutrients
Native Grasslands
Invasive species that can displace native grasses and alter ecosystem balance
Moisture-loving Plants
Incompatible water requirements as pampas grass prefers dry conditions year-round
Pests & Disease Resistance
Resistance
Generally disease resistant, very hardy
Common Pests
Scale insects, aphids (rarely problematic)
Diseases
Root rot in poorly drained soils
Troubleshooting Pampas Grass
What you'll see, why it happens, and what to do about it.
Clump base is soft and rotting, with yellowing or brown outer leaves that pull away easily
Likely Causes
- Root rot (Pythium or Phytophthora spp.) caused by waterlogged or clay-heavy soil with poor drainage
- Planting too deep — burying the crown more than an inch below grade traps moisture
What to Do
- 1.Dig the plant and trim away all blackened, mushy roots before replanting
- 2.Amend the bed with coarse grit or pea gravel to improve drainage, or build a raised mound 4-6 inches above grade
- 3.Pull back on irrigation — established clumps do fine on once-a-week watering at most, and many get by on rainfall alone once rooted in
White or gray crusty bumps on leaf stems and culms, with occasional sticky residue
Likely Causes
- Scale insects (armored or soft scale) — more common on stressed or container-grown plants
- Low airflow from overcrowded planting or nearby dense shrubs
What to Do
- 1.Cut and remove the worst-affected canes at the base — Cortaderia selloana regrows hard after cutting
- 2.Spray remaining affected areas with horticultural oil at label rate; repeat after 10-14 days
- 3.Space clumps the full 6-8 feet apart — tight planting is where scale gets its foothold
Center of the clump is dead and hollow after 4-5 years, with vigorous growth only on the outer ring
Likely Causes
- Normal senescence of the central crown — mature Cortaderia selloana clumps die out from the center over time
- Skipping the annual cutback, which lets dead thatch choke out new shoots
What to Do
- 1.Cut the entire clump back hard to 12-18 inches in late winter, before new growth pushes in late February or early March
- 2.Divide the clump by digging it out and splitting the live outer sections with a sharp spade; discard the dead center
- 3.Wear thick leather gloves and a long-sleeve shirt — the leaf margins are finely serrated and will open skin before you notice
Frequently Asked Questions
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Growing Guides from Wind River Greens
Where to Buy Seeds
Sources & References
External authority sources used in compiling this guide.
- ExtensionNC State Extension
See the Methodology page for how this data is sourced, what's AI-assisted, and known limitations.