Mr. Lincoln
Rosa 'Mister Lincoln'
The quintessential red rose that has captured hearts since 1964 with its deep velvety crimson blooms and intoxicating fragrance. This classic hybrid tea rose produces long-stemmed flowers perfect for cutting, embodying everything people dream of when they think of the perfect red rose.
Sun
Full sun
Zones
5–9
USDA hardiness
Height
3-6 feet
Planting Timeline
Showing dates for Mr. Lincoln in USDA Zone 7
All Zone 7 rose →Zone Map
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Mr. Lincoln · Zones 5–9
Growing Details
Zone-by-Zone Planting Calendar
Complete Growing Guide
Light: Full sun (6 or more hours of direct sunlight a day). Soil: Clay, High Organic Matter, Loam (Silt), Sand. Soil pH: Acid (<6.0), Neutral (6.0-8.0). Drainage: Good Drainage, Moist. Height: 3 ft. 0 in. - 6 ft. 0 in.. Spread: 2 ft. 0 in. - 3 ft. 0 in.. Spacing: 3 feet-6 feet. Growth rate: Rapid. Maintenance: Medium. Propagation: Stem Cutting. Regions: Coastal, Mountains, Piedmont.
Harvesting
Insignificant
Storage & Preservation
Fresh-cut Mr. Lincoln roses last 7-10 days in a vase when properly conditioned. Re-cut stems under running water at a sharp angle, removing any foliage below the waterline. Use cool water mixed with commercial flower food or a homemade solution of 1 teaspoon sugar, 1 teaspoon bleach, and 2 teaspoons lemon juice per quart.
For drying, harvest roses just before peak bloom and hang upside down in a dark, dry, well-ventilated area. Mr. Lincoln's deep red color preserves beautifully, though it may darken slightly. Petals can be dried separately for potpourri by spreading on screens for 2-3 weeks.
Rose hips can be harvested after first frost for jellies and teas, though hybrid tea varieties like Mr. Lincoln produce fewer hips than species roses. Store fresh arrangements in a cool room away from direct sunlight and heat sources to maximize longevity.
History & Origin
Origin: United States
Advantages
- +Attracts: Bees, Butterflies, Pollinators
- +Fast-growing
Companion Plants
Lavender and catmint planted within 18–24 inches attract predatory wasps and emit volatile oils that deter aphids and thrips — and neither one is going to muscle Mr. Lincoln out of water at the root zone. Marigolds (Tagetes spp.) at the front of the bed add similar pest-confusion value and have shown some suppression of soil nematodes in replicated trials. Garlic, chives, and alliums tucked near the base contribute sulfur compounds that appear to reduce pressure from aphids and Japanese beetles, both of which will find this variety reliably every season regardless. Black walnut is the one plant to site well away — juglone toxicity from its root system can kill roses outright, and the damage shows up slowly enough that you may not connect the cause to the symptom until the plant is already failing.
Plant Together
Lavender
Repels aphids, spider mites, and other pests while attracting beneficial pollinators
Marigold
Deters nematodes, aphids, and whiteflies with strong scent compounds
Garlic
Natural fungicide properties help prevent black spot and powdery mildew
Catmint
Repels aphids, ants, and rodents while attracting beneficial insects
Allium
Strong sulfur compounds deter aphids, thrips, and Japanese beetles
Parsley
Attracts beneficial insects like hoverflies that prey on rose pests
Clematis
Provides complementary blooming periods and shares similar soil preferences
Chives
Prevents aphid infestations and may enhance rose fragrance
Keep Apart
Black Walnut
Produces juglone toxin that causes wilting and stunted growth in roses
Eucalyptus
Allelopathic compounds inhibit root development and nutrient uptake
Large Trees
Compete for nutrients and water while creating excessive shade for sun-loving roses
Pests & Disease Resistance
Resistance
Moderate resistance, benefits from preventive fungicide program
Common Pests
Aphids, thrips, spider mites, Japanese beetles, rose chafer
Diseases
Black spot, powdery mildew, downy mildew, canker, rust
Troubleshooting Mr. Lincoln
What you'll see, why it happens, and what to do about it.
Dark circular spots with irregular, feathered edges on leaves, followed by yellowing and leaf drop — often starting in early summer
Likely Causes
- Black spot (Diplocarpon rosae) — a fungal disease that splashes up from soil or infected fallen leaves during rain or overhead watering
- Prolonged leaf wetness, especially when nighttime moisture extends into morning
What to Do
- 1.Strip and trash (don't compost) all affected leaves and any fallen debris on the ground
- 2.Mulch around the base in late winter to reduce soil splash; keep it a few inches back from the canes
- 3.Water at the base only — drip or soaker hose — and water in the morning so foliage dries before evening
- 4.Prune out any infected canes in winter; improve airflow by opening up the center of the plant with annual pruning
New canes showing excessive thorniness, abnormal elongation, and leaves holding juvenile red coloration instead of maturing to green
Likely Causes
- Rose rosette disease (Rose rosette virus), transmitted by the eriophyid mite Phyllocoptes fructiplilus
- Shoot proliferation (witches'-broom) can accompany the virus, though it can also appear after exposure to low doses of glyphosate drift — rule that out before you pull the plant
What to Do
- 1.There is no cure — remove and destroy the entire plant, roots included, as soon as RRD is confirmed
- 2.Bag all infected material and put it in the trash; do not compost it
- 3.Check neighboring roses within 100 feet, as the mite vector moves easily between plants
White powdery coating on young leaves, buds, and shoot tips, with leaves curling or distorting at the margins
Likely Causes
- Powdery mildew (Podosphaera pannosa) — thrives in warm days and cool nights, common in late spring and again in early fall
- Spacing tighter than 3 feet that cuts off air movement around the canopy
What to Do
- 1.Prune to open up the plant's center — Mr. Lincoln grows 3–6 feet tall and dense, and a few well-placed cuts do more than any spray
- 2.Apply a sulfur-based or potassium bicarbonate spray at first sign; repeat every 7–10 days while conditions favor the disease
- 3.Hold off on high-nitrogen fertilization after August — the flush of soft new growth it triggers is exactly what Podosphaera pannosa colonizes first