Blue Moon Rose
Rosa 'Blue Moon'
A stunning hybrid tea rose that captivates gardeners with its unique silvery-lavender blooms and intensely sweet fragrance. This award-winning variety produces large, perfectly formed flowers that appear almost blue in certain light conditions, making it one of the most distinctive roses in any garden. The vigorous, upright growth habit and excellent cut flower quality make it a favorite among rose enthusiasts seeking something truly special.
Sun
Full sun
Zones
5–11
USDA hardiness
Height
1-8 feet
Planting Timeline
Showing dates for Blue Moon Rose in USDA Zone 7
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Blue Moon Rose · Zones 5–11
Growing Details
Zone-by-Zone Planting Calendar
Complete Growing Guide
Blue Moon Rose thrives when planted in early spring, after the last frost date has passed and soil temperatures reach at least 60°F. If you're starting from bare-root canes, late winter to early spring is ideal, allowing the plant to establish roots before the growing season accelerates. Potted specimens can be planted throughout the growing season, though spring planting gives the best establishment window. Unlike seed-grown roses, Blue Moon Rose arrives as a grafted or rooted cutting, so skip indoor sowing entirely and focus on site preparation instead.
This vigorous hybrid tea rose demands generous spacing of at least three to four feet from neighboring plants to ensure excellent air circulation, which is crucial for preventing the fungal issues this variety is prone to. Dig a planting hole twice as wide as the root ball and just as deep, working in three to four inches of well-rotted compost or aged manure into the surrounding soil. Blue Moon Rose prefers slightly acidic, well-draining soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5. Poor drainage is particularly problematic for this variety, as it increases susceptibility to both black spot and canker diseases that commonly plague Blue Moon plantings.
Water deeply and consistently, providing one to two inches per week depending on rainfall and heat. Apply water at soil level rather than overhead to minimize leaf wetness, which encourages the black spot and powdery mildew that readily attack this cultivar. During establishment, water more frequently; once established, taper to deep soakings less often. Feed every four to six weeks with a balanced rose fertilizer or fish emulsion from late spring through early fall, stopping by mid-August to avoid stimulating tender new growth vulnerable to frost damage.
Blue Moon Rose attracts aphids and spider mites with particular enthusiasm, so monitor leaf undersides and shoot tips weekly during warm weather. Thrips notoriously damage the silvery-lavender blooms themselves, distorting the perfectly formed petals this variety is celebrated for. Japanese beetles skeletonize foliage in early summer. Scout regularly and use targeted interventions like insecticidal soap for aphids or hand-picking beetles rather than broad pesticides that harm beneficial insects. Black spot fungus thrives on wet foliage, so stake mulch two inches away from the cane base and remove any affected leaves immediately.
Pruning is essential for maintaining Blue Moon's upright form and promoting abundant flowering. In early spring, remove dead or crossing canes and cut remaining stems back by about one-third. Throughout the growing season, deadhead spent blooms to encourage continuous flowering, cutting just above the first five-leaflet leaf facing outward. Many gardeners overlook the importance of removing the bottom three to four inches of foliage, creating a bare stem base that dramatically improves air circulation and disease resistance—a simple step that transforms Blue Moon's health and performance.
Harvesting
Harvest Blue Moon Rose blooms when the outer petals have fully unfurled but still retain their silvery-lavender hue without browning, and the flower head feels firm yet yields slightly to gentle pressure. Peak readiness occurs when the bloom reaches three to four inches in diameter, typically in the early morning hours when stems are fully hydrated and fragrance is most intense. This variety responds excellently to continuous harvesting, producing abundant repeat blooms throughout the season when spent flowers are promptly removed, encouraging the plant to redirect energy into new flower development rather than seed production. Cut stems at a forty-five-degree angle just above an outward-facing five-leaflet leaf to maintain the rose's vigorous, upright form while maximizing vase life and fragrance longevity.
The accessory fruit is called a hip and forms after the flowers finish blooming. The hip will appear under the sepals of where the flower was after the flower dies. They will turn from green to red. They are filled with many achenes surrounded by irritating hairs.
Color: Green, Red/Burgundy. Type: Achene. Length: < 1 inch. Width: < 1 inch.
Garden value: Showy
Harvest time: Fall
Edibility: The fruit (called the hip) is edible.
Storage & Preservation
For cut Blue Moon Roses, store stems in cool water (65-72°F) away from direct sunlight and ripening fruit. Keep in a cool room rather than refrigerator to prevent petal damage. Shelf life is 10-14 days with daily water changes and stem re-cutting. Preservation methods: (1) Air-dry by hanging upside-down in a dark, well-ventilated space for long-lasting dried arrangements; (2) Glycerin conditioning extends vase life to 3+ weeks while maintaining color and texture; (3) Freeze blooms in water-filled containers for archival preservation and later rehydration.
History & Origin
The Blue Moon Rose emerged from German breeding lines in the 1960s, developed by Tantau, a renowned rose hybridizer, and introduced commercially in 1964. This hybrid tea rose represents a deliberate effort to create a rose with unusual coloring that approaches blue tones—a long-standing goal in rose breeding. The variety's silvery-lavender hues result from careful cross-breeding of parent varieties selected for their color characteristics and fragrance traits. While detailed parentage documentation remains limited in accessible records, Blue Moon Rose became notable for achieving what many breeders considered an elusive quality: blooms that shift toward blue under certain lighting conditions. The variety's vigor and reliable performance secured its place as a classic among hybrid tea roses.
Origin: Temp. & Subtropical Northern Hemisphere (such as Europe & Asia)
Advantages
- +Stunning silvery-lavender blooms appear almost blue in certain light.
- +Intensely sweet and fruity fragrance rivals the finest rose varieties.
- +Award-winning hybrid tea with vigorous, upright growth habit.
- +Excellent cut flower quality makes it ideal for arrangements.
- +Large, perfectly formed flowers captivate gardeners and visitors alike.
Considerations
- -Moderate difficulty requires consistent care and pruning expertise.
- -Highly susceptible to black spot, powdery mildew, rust, canker.
- -Vulnerable to multiple pests including aphids, thrips, spider mites.
- -Demands well-draining soil and regular monitoring for disease prevention.
Companion Plants
Lavender, catmint, and chives planted within a foot or two of Blue Moon do real work. Lavender and catmint draw in predatory wasps and confuse aphids through their volatile oils — and aphids are a consistent problem on rose new growth from April through June in our zone 7 Georgia gardens. Garlic and chives (both alliums) have a long-standing reputation for slowing black spot (Diplocarpon rosae) when planted densely at the base; the sulfur compounds they release appear to interfere with fungal spread, though it won't replace cultural controls. Marigolds and parsley round out the bed nicely — marigolds deter thrips and Japanese beetles to a modest degree, while parsley draws hoverflies whose larvae feed on aphids. None of these are a silver bullet, but together they take the edge off pest pressure.
Keep Blue Moon away from black walnut — the roots release juglone, which causes wilting and dieback you'll initially read as drought stress. Large trees overhead cut the 6+ hours of full sun this variety needs and compete hard for the 1–1.5 inches of weekly water Blue Moon requires to perform. Brassicas are heavy nitrogen feeders that will go toe-to-toe with your rose for soil resources, and they can carry clubroot, which persists in the soil long after the brassicas are gone.
Plant Together
Lavender
Repels aphids, moths, and other rose pests while attracting beneficial pollinators
Marigolds
Natural nematicide properties and repels aphids, whiteflies, and other harmful insects
Garlic
Deters aphids, spider mites, and fungal diseases like black spot and powdery mildew
Catmint
Repels aphids, ants, and rodents while attracting beneficial insects
Chives
Natural fungicide properties help prevent black spot and aphid deterrent
Clematis
Complementary root systems and provides vertical interest without competing for nutrients
Alliums
Strong scent deters aphids, thrips, and Japanese beetles
Parsley
Attracts beneficial insects like hoverflies and parasitic wasps that control rose pests
Keep Apart
Black Walnut
Produces juglone toxin that inhibits rose growth and can cause wilting
Large Trees
Compete for nutrients, water, and sunlight, reducing rose vigor and bloom production
Brassicas
Heavy feeders that compete for nutrients and may attract pests harmful to roses
Pests & Disease Resistance
Resistance
Moderate resistance to black spot and powdery mildew
Common Pests
Aphids, thrips, Japanese beetles, spider mites
Diseases
Black spot, powdery mildew, rust, canker
Troubleshooting Blue Moon Rose
What you'll see, why it happens, and what to do about it.
Black spots with ragged, 'feathered' edges on leaves; leaves yellowing and dropping, sometimes starting as early as late spring
Likely Causes
- Black spot (Diplocarpon rosae) — a fungal disease that splashes up from soil or infected fallen leaves during rain
- Overhead watering that keeps foliage wet into the evening or morning hours
- Poor air circulation from dense or unpruned canes
What to Do
- 1.Strip and bag all infected leaves — don't compost them; rake up any that have fallen
- 2.Water at the base only, and water in the morning so foliage dries before nightfall
- 3.Mulch around the root zone in late winter to suppress soil splash, and thin canes in late winter to open up airflow
- 4.NC State Extension's IPM guidance recommends pruning out infected canes during winter dormancy to reduce overwintering spore load
White, powdery coating on young leaves, buds, and shoot tips — often worse on new growth in spring or early fall
Likely Causes
- Powdery mildew (Podosphaera pannosa) — a fungal pathogen that thrives in warm days (70–80°F) with cool nights and high humidity, but dry leaf surfaces
- Crowded planting with less than 3 feet between shrubs, cutting off airflow
What to Do
- 1.Prune out the most heavily affected shoot tips and dispose of them
- 2.Space plants at least 3–4 feet apart and avoid planting against walls that trap heat and stagnant air
- 3.A weekly spray of potassium bicarbonate or neem oil can slow spread once symptoms appear — apply early morning so leaves dry quickly
New shoots are unusually elongated, hold a deep red or burgundy color even as they mature, and canes develop dense clusters of small distorted leaves (witches'-broom); may also see extreme thorniness along those canes
Likely Causes
- Rose rosette disease (Rose rosette virus), transmitted by the eriophyid mite Phyllocoptes fructiphylus
- Proximity to infected multiflora rose (Rosa multiflora), which is a major reservoir for the virus in the Southeast
What to Do
- 1.There is no cure — remove and bag the entire plant, roots included, as soon as you're confident in the diagnosis
- 2.Don't replant a rose in the same spot for at least one full season; check neighboring roses for early symptoms every few weeks
- 3.NC State Extension notes that excessive thorniness is a near-certain indicator of RRD, while shoot proliferation alone could also signal low-dose glyphosate drift — rule that out before you pull the plant
Leaves stippled with tiny pale dots, undersides look dusty or faintly webbed; foliage eventually bronzes and drops during midsummer heat
Likely Causes
- Two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae) — populations spike on roses during hot, dry stretches above 85°F
- Water-stressed plants, which flare up faster and harder than well-watered ones
What to Do
- 1.Blast the undersides of leaves with a strong jet of water — do this in the morning, 3 days in a row, to knock populations down quickly
- 2.Keep the plant consistently watered at 1–1.5 inches per week through summer; drought stress accelerates mite damage significantly
- 3.If populations are heavy, apply insecticidal soap or neem oil directly to leaf undersides, coating them thoroughly — repeat every 5–7 days for two to three applications