Mister Lincoln
Rosa 'Mister Lincoln'
A legendary deep red hybrid tea rose that has captivated gardeners for over 50 years with its velvety, perfectly formed blooms. Winner of the All-America Rose Selection award, this classic beauty produces fragrant, long-stemmed roses that are absolutely perfect for cutting and bring timeless elegance to any garden.
Harvest
60-70d
Days to harvest
Sun
Full sun
Zones
5–9
USDA hardiness
Height
3-6 feet
Planting Timeline
Showing dates for Mister Lincoln in USDA Zone 7
All Zone 7 rose →Zone Map
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Mister Lincoln · Zones 5–9
Growing Details
Zone-by-Zone Planting Calendar
Complete Growing Guide
This heirloom cultivar demands consistent moisture and well-draining soil rich in organic matter, as it's more susceptible to root rot than modern roses if waterlogged. Unlike vigorous shrub roses, Mister Lincoln requires patient establishment—wait until soil reaches 60°F before planting to prevent stress and disease. The variety's dense foliage makes it prone to powdery mildew and black spot, so ensure excellent air circulation and avoid overhead watering. Deadheading spent blooms throughout the 60-70 day growing window triggers prolific flowering, while applying a thick mulch layer moderates soil temperature fluctuations that can weaken this particular strain. Feed with balanced fertilizer every 4-6 weeks rather than excessive nitrogen, which encourages leafy growth at the expense of the signature velvety blooms. Regular inspection for spider mites, especially during hot spells, prevents the rapid infestations this cultivar attracts.
Light: Full sun (6 or more hours of direct sunlight a day). Soil: Clay, High Organic Matter, Loam (Silt), Sand. Soil pH: Acid (<6.0), Neutral (6.0-8.0). Drainage: Good Drainage, Moist. Height: 3 ft. 0 in. - 6 ft. 0 in.. Spread: 2 ft. 0 in. - 3 ft. 0 in.. Spacing: 3 feet-6 feet. Growth rate: Rapid. Maintenance: Medium. Propagation: Stem Cutting. Regions: Coastal, Mountains, Piedmont.
Harvesting
Harvest Mister Lincoln roses when the outer petals just begin to unfurl and the blooms reach full size with a deep crimson hue, as this cultivar develops its signature velvety texture at peak maturity. The petals should feel soft and supple rather than papery, indicating optimal fragrance release. For continuous blooms throughout the growing season, deadhead spent flowers regularly to encourage new cane growth and flowering cycles. Time your harvests in early morning when stems are fully hydrated, cutting at a 45-degree angle just above an outward-facing five-leaflet leaf node to promote bushier growth and sustained production of long-stemmed blooms ideal for cutting.
Insignificant
Storage & Preservation
Store fresh Mister Lincoln roses in a cool location between 35-40°F with 90-95% humidity—a refrigerator is ideal for extending vase life. Cut stems should be placed in clean water with floral preservative immediately after cutting. Shelf life typically lasts 7-14 days indoors. For preservation, dry roses by hanging bundles upside-down in a dark, well-ventilated space for 2-3 weeks. Alternatively, preserve blooms using silica gel for faster drying (5-7 days), which maintains color and form beautifully. Press petals between paper for a delicate, keepsake option.
History & Origin
Introduced by Swim and Weeks in 1965, 'Mister Lincoln' emerged from the hybrid tea rose breeding program that defined mid-century American rose development. This variety represents the culmination of decades of work to achieve the perfect deep red rose with exceptional fragrance and form. While specific parentage records are somewhat obscured by time, 'Mister Lincoln' belongs to the lineage of red hybrid teas that dominated competitive shows and home gardens throughout the latter twentieth century. Its rapid adoption and enduring popularity—winning the All-America Rose Selection award shortly after introduction—secured its place as a standard bearer for classic American rose breeding, influencing subsequent red rose introductions for generations.
Origin: United States
Advantages
- +Legendary variety with 50+ years of proven garden performance and reliability
- +Produces perfectly formed, velvety deep red blooms ideal for cut flower arrangements
- +Strong, classic rose fragrance that fills gardens with timeless, romantic scent
- +Award-winning All-America Rose Selection winner with exceptional ornamental value
- +Long stems naturally suited for bouquets and formal floral displays
Considerations
- -Susceptible to black spot and powdery mildew in humid or wet conditions
- -Requires moderate to high maintenance care for optimal bloom production
- -Vulnerable to multiple common pests including aphids, thrips, and Japanese beetles
- -Moderate difficulty level demands regular pruning, feeding, and disease monitoring
Companion Plants
Lavender and catmint planted 18–24 inches from the rose's drip line do real work — both attract predatory wasps and hoverflies that keep aphid populations in check, and their volatile oils appear to interfere with thrips and other small insects trying to locate the blooms. Marigolds (Tagetes species) at the base earn their place through root-exuded thiophenes, which suppress soil nematodes — a practical benefit for a long-lived plant that will occupy that spot for years. Garlic and alliums are worth tucking in close; at minimum they're not competing for the deep moisture Mister Lincoln needs, and the anecdotal evidence on Japanese beetle deterrence is at least plausible.
Black walnut is a hard no because it produces juglone, a compound that interferes with respiration in many plants, and roses are sensitive enough that proximity alone can cause slow decline even without direct root contact. Large trees cause a different problem: Mister Lincoln needs 6 or more hours of direct sun daily to bloom properly, and a mature canopy doesn't just cast shade — it pulls soil moisture through a root system that will out-compete a rose every time.
Plant Together
Lavender
Repels aphids, moths, and other pests while attracting beneficial pollinators
Marigold
Deters nematodes, aphids, and whiteflies with natural pest-repelling compounds
Garlic
Repels aphids, spider mites, and Japanese beetles with strong sulfur compounds
Catmint
Repels ants, aphids, and rodents while attracting beneficial insects
Alliums
Deter aphids, thrips, and other rose pests with natural sulfur compounds
Clematis
Provides complementary bloom times and shares similar soil and water requirements
Rosemary
Repels carrot flies, cabbage moths, and other pests with aromatic oils
Parsley
Attracts beneficial insects like hoverflies that prey on aphids
Keep Apart
Black Walnut
Produces juglone toxin that inhibits rose growth and can cause wilting
Large Trees
Compete for nutrients and water while creating excessive shade for sun-loving roses
Brassicas
Attract pests like flea beetles and cabbage worms that may spread to roses
Pests & Disease Resistance
Resistance
Moderate resistance to common rose diseases
Common Pests
Aphids, thrips, spider mites, Japanese beetles
Diseases
Black spot, powdery mildew, rust, downy mildew
Troubleshooting Mister Lincoln
What you'll see, why it happens, and what to do about it.
Dark spots with irregular, feathered edges on leaves; leaves yellowing and dropping, sometimes starting as early as late spring
Likely Causes
- Black spot (Diplocarpon rosae) — a fungal disease that splashes up from soil and thrives when leaves stay wet overnight
- Susceptible cultivar — Mister Lincoln is a hybrid tea, and hybrid teas as a class tend to be more black spot-prone than shrub roses
What to Do
- 1.Water at the base only — drip irrigation or a soaker hose keeps foliage dry and shortens the leaf-wetness period
- 2.Mulch around the base in late winter to stop spores in the soil from splashing onto lower leaves
- 3.Strip and trash (don't compost) infected leaves; prune out any cane infections during winter dormancy
- 4.If the plant defoliates repeatedly every season, consider replacing it — NC State Extension lists Knock Out roses, 'Bonica', and 'Carefree Beauty' as less susceptible options
New canes packed with excessive thorns, elongated shoots holding deep red color well into maturity, or broom-like shoot proliferation on one or more canes
Likely Causes
- Rose Rosette Disease (RRD), caused by Rose rosette virus and transmitted by the eriophyid mite Phyllocoptes fructiphilus
- Witches'-broom-style proliferation can also result from low-dose glyphosate drift — rule that out first if anything nearby has been sprayed
What to Do
- 1.There is no cure for RRD — dig and bag the entire plant, roots and all, and put it in the trash
- 2.Do not compost any part of an RRD-infected plant
- 3.Check neighboring roses within 100 feet for early symptoms; the mite vector moves plant to plant readily
White powdery coating on young leaves, buds, and shoot tips — often worse on the newest growth in warm days with cool nights
Likely Causes
- Powdery mildew (Podosphaera pannosa) — unlike most fungi, this one prefers dry surfaces and spreads fastest when daytime temps run 60–80°F
- Dense planting or walls that cut off airflow around the canes
What to Do
- 1.Prune to open up the center of the plant — 18–24 inches of clearance between main canes makes a real difference
- 2.Apply potassium bicarbonate or neem oil at first sign; repeat every 7–10 days while conditions stay favorable
- 3.Back off high-nitrogen fertilizer in late summer — the soft flush of new growth it produces is exactly what powdery mildew colonizes first
Clusters of soft-bodied insects on new buds and shoot tips, sticky residue on lower leaves, or petals with brown streaking at the edges on flowers that won't open cleanly
Likely Causes
- Aphids (commonly Macrosiphum rosae, the rose aphid) — populations build fast in spring when new growth is soft
- Thrips inside developing buds — harder to spot until the petals show damage
What to Do
- 1.For aphids: knock them off with a firm stream of water three mornings in a row — the population usually crashes before you need anything stronger
- 2.If water alone isn't cutting it, apply insecticidal soap directly to the colonies, coating the undersides of leaves where they cluster
- 3.For Japanese beetles (mid-June through July): hand-pick into soapy water in early morning when they're sluggish — skip the bag traps, which draw in more beetles than they catch