Lady of Shalott
Rosa 'Ausnyson'
David Austin's masterpiece English rose that combines old-world charm with modern disease resistance and repeat flowering. The warm orange-red blooms with golden yellow undersides create a stunning two-toned effect that photographs beautifully. This vigorous shrub rose delivers exceptional fragrance and performs reliably in various climates.
Sun
Full sun
Zones
5–11
USDA hardiness
Height
1-8 feet
Planting Timeline
Showing dates for Lady of Shalott in USDA Zone 7
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Lady of Shalott · Zones 5–11
Growing Details
Zone-by-Zone Planting Calendar
Complete Growing Guide
Lady of Shalott is best started as a bare-root or containerized rose rather than from seed. If purchasing bare-root plants, order them in late fall or early spring for planting just before or after your last frost date. Container-grown specimens can go in the ground anytime during the growing season, though spring and fall establishment periods minimize transplant stress. This David Austin rose is vigorous enough that timing flexibility is one of its strengths, making it forgiving for gardeners who miss ideal windows.
Prepare a generous planting hole with well-draining soil enriched with compost or aged manure. Lady of Shalott thrives in soil with good organic matter content and pH between 6.0 and 6.5. Space plants at least 4 feet apart to allow air circulation through the shrub, which helps prevent disease issues this variety occasionally encounters. The graft union should sit just slightly above soil level in colder climates and slightly below in warmer regions. Plant in full sun—at least six hours daily—to maximize the intensity of those spectacular orange-red blooms with golden undersides.
Water deeply and regularly during the first growing season to establish a strong root system, then transition to deep weekly watering during dry spells. Inconsistent watering stresses the plant and invites problems, so maintaining even soil moisture without waterlogging is crucial. Begin feeding in early spring with a balanced rose fertilizer, then switch to a bloom-promoting formula once flowering starts. Continue monthly feeding through late summer, stopping by fall to allow the rose to harden off for winter.
This cultivar's vigor can occasionally attract aphids and spider mites, particularly in hot, dry conditions. Monitor new growth closely in spring and early summer, and spray forcefully with water to dislodge aphids before populations explode. Rose sawfly larvae may damage leaves in summer—inspect the undersides of foliage regularly and remove affected leaves promptly. Lady of Shalott's strong disease resistance means downy mildew is uncommon, but humid growing conditions or poor air circulation can trigger it. If gray, angular leaf spots appear, improve spacing, reduce overhead watering, and increase air movement.
Pruning keeps this shrub shapely and encourages prolific repeat blooming. In early spring, remove dead canes and cut back living stems by about one-third. Throughout the growing season, deadhead spent blooms just above the nearest outward-facing leaf to trigger new flushes. The plant grows 4 to 8 feet depending on climate and care, so plan accordingly and don't hesitate to prune for size control.
The most common mistake gardeners make with Lady of Shalott is underestimating its fragrance—many expect a lightly scented modern rose and are pleasantly surprised by its rich, complex perfume. Don't site it where you can't enjoy this feature; plant it near seating areas or walkways where you'll appreciate this English rose's full aromatic presence.
Harvesting
Harvest Lady of Shalott blooms when the outer petals have unfurled to reveal the warm orange-red interior with its distinctive golden yellow undersides, indicating peak color development and fragrance intensity. The blooms should feel firm yet slightly yielding when gently squeezed, and typically reach 3-4 inches across at optimal readiness. This repeat-flowering cultivar benefits from continuous harvesting throughout the growing season rather than single harvests, as removing spent blooms encourages prolific new flower production. Cut stems early in the morning when temperatures are cool and the blooms have fully hydrated, selecting stems with at least two sets of leaves below the cut to promote vigorous reblooming and maintain the shrub's attractive shape.
The accessory fruit is called a hip and forms after the flowers finish blooming. The hip will appear under the sepals of where the flower was after the flower dies. They will turn from green to red. They are filled with many achenes surrounded by irritating hairs.
Color: Green, Red/Burgundy. Type: Achene. Length: < 1 inch. Width: < 1 inch.
Garden value: Showy
Harvest time: Fall
Edibility: The fruit (called the hip) is edible.
Storage & Preservation
For fresh cut blooms, store in a cool environment (65-72°F) in a clean vase with floral preservative and fresh water, changing water every 2-3 days. Keep away from ripening fruit and direct sunlight. Vase life is typically 7-12 days. Preservation methods: (1) Air-drying—bundle stems loosely and hang upside-down in a cool, dark space for 2-3 weeks for dried arrangements; (2) Pressing—place individual petals between parchment paper under heavy books for 2-3 weeks to preserve for crafts or potpourri; (3) Freezing pressed flowers—once pressed, seal in airtight containers at 32°F for extended storage of decorative elements.
History & Origin
David Austin introduced 'Lady of Shalott' in 2015 as part of his acclaimed English Rose collection, combining the breeder's signature approach of blending old garden rose charm with modern shrub rose vigor and disease resistance. The variety emerged from Austin's carefully selected breeding lines that prioritize repeat flowering and exceptional fragrance alongside ornamental appeal. Named after Tennyson's literary character, the rose reflects Austin's tradition of drawing inspiration from literary and historical sources. While specific parent varieties remain proprietary to Austin's breeding program, 'Lady of Shalott' exemplifies the horticultural objectives that have defined his work since the 1960s: creating shrub roses that perform reliably across diverse climates while delivering the romantic character of heritage roses.
Origin: Temp. & Subtropical Northern Hemisphere (such as Europe & Asia)
Advantages
- +Stunning two-toned orange-red and golden yellow blooms photograph exceptionally well
- +Strong tea rose fragrance with appealing spicy notes delights most gardeners
- +Combines old-world charm with modern disease resistance and repeat flowering
- +Vigorous growth and reliable performance across various climate zones
- +Easy to moderate difficulty makes it accessible for most gardeners
Considerations
- -Susceptible to aphids and spider mites requiring regular pest monitoring
- -Occasional downy mildew problems in humid climates demand good air circulation
- -Large vigorous plant requires adequate space to avoid overcrowding neighbors
Companion Plants
Lavender, catmint, and thyme are the strongest companions here. All three attract parasitic wasps and hoverflies that prey on aphids and spider mites, and their low, spreading habit won't fight the rose for root space within the 6.0-7.0 pH range both prefer. Garlic, chives, and alliums pull a different lever — sulfur compounds in their tissues deter aphids and interfere with some fungal spores; plant them within 12-18 inches of the base or they're mostly decorative. Marigolds (Tagetes patula specifically) add nematode suppression at the soil level. Clematis is worth mentioning as a structural companion: it shares vertical space without crowding roots, and the color contrast against Lady of Shalott's apricot-orange blooms is one of the better-looking plant combinations you can put together without much effort.
Black walnut (Juglans nigra) is the one to keep this rose well away from — walnut roots and decomposing leaf litter release juglone, a compound toxic to roses that causes wilting and shoot dieback easily mistaken for a disease. The damage radius from a mature walnut can extend 50-80 feet. Large trees more broadly are a simpler problem: root competition for water and the canopy cutting below the 6 hours of daily sun this variety needs to set repeat blooms.
Plant Together
Lavender
Repels aphids, moths, and other pests while attracting beneficial pollinators
Marigold
Deters nematodes, aphids, and whiteflies with natural pest-repelling compounds
Garlic
Repels aphids, spider mites, and fungal diseases with sulfur compounds
Catmint
Repels ants, aphids, and rodents while attracting beneficial insects
Allium
Natural fungicide properties help prevent black spot and powdery mildew
Clematis
Provides complementary structure and shares similar soil and water requirements
Thyme
Repels cabbage worms and aphids while improving overall garden biodiversity
Chives
Deters aphids and Japanese beetles while enhancing rose fragrance
Keep Apart
Black Walnut
Produces juglone toxin that inhibits rose growth and can cause wilting
Large Trees
Compete for nutrients and water while creating excessive shade for sun-loving roses
Pests & Disease Resistance
Resistance
Excellent resistance to black spot, powdery mildew, and rust
Common Pests
Aphids, spider mites, rose sawfly larvae
Diseases
Generally disease resistant, occasional downy mildew in humid conditions
Troubleshooting Lady of Shalott
What you'll see, why it happens, and what to do about it.
Dark spots on leaves with irregular, feathered edges; leaves yellowing and dropping, sometimes mid-season
Likely Causes
- Black spot (Diplocarpon rosae) — soil-borne fungus that splashes up during rain or overhead watering
- Poor air circulation from dense planting or unpruned canopy
- Extended leaf wetness from evening watering
What to Do
- 1.Strip affected leaves and bag them — don't compost them
- 2.Mulch the base with 2-3 inches of straw or wood chips to stop splash transmission
- 3.Water at the base only, and do it in the morning so foliage dries before nightfall — NC State Extension's IPM guidance specifically flags nighttime leaf wetness as a driver
- 4.Prune out any cane infections in late winter and clean up all fallen leaves before spring
New shoots with excessive thorns, or elongated stems that stay red instead of greening up as they mature
Likely Causes
- Rose rosette disease (Rose rosette virus), transmitted by the eriophyid mite Phyllocoptes fructiphylus
- Shoot proliferation resembling witches'-broom can also result from low-dose glyphosate drift — rule that out before assuming RRD
What to Do
- 1.If excessive thorniness and red shoot retention appear together, assume RRD — there is no cure
- 2.Remove and bag the entire plant, roots included, immediately to prevent mite spread to neighboring roses
- 3.Don't replant a rose in the same spot for at least one full season
Soft, distorted new growth with clusters of small green or black insects on buds and stem tips
Likely Causes
- Aphids (commonly Macrosiphum rosae, the rose aphid) — populations can build fast in spring when new growth is soft
- Ant activity nearby often signals an established aphid colony — ants tend them for honeydew
What to Do
- 1.Knock aphids off with a firm stream of water from a hose — do this in the morning so foliage dries quickly
- 2.If populations persist after 3-4 days, apply insecticidal soap directly to the colonies, covering the undersides of leaves
- 3.Plant garlic or chives within 12-18 inches of the rose; their sulfur compounds deter aphids without any spray
Grayish-white fuzzy coating on leaves or buds, appearing during cool, humid stretches
Likely Causes
- Downy mildew (Peronospora sparsa) — thrives when nights sit around 50-65°F and humidity stays high for several days running
- Overhead irrigation that keeps foliage wet overnight
What to Do
- 1.Thin the center of the plant to open airflow — each shrub needs at least 3-4 feet of clear space around it
- 2.Switch to drip or soaker hose irrigation to keep foliage dry
- 3.Lady of Shalott carries decent built-in disease resistance; if downy mildew recurs anyway, inspect nearby roses for the source and remove badly infected canes before the next wet stretch
Frequently Asked Questions
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Growing Guides from Wind River Greens
Where to Buy Seeds
Sources & References
External authority sources used in compiling this guide.
- ExtensionNC State Extension
See the Methodology page for how this data is sourced, what's AI-assisted, and known limitations.