Chrysler Imperial
Rosa 'Chrysler Imperial'
This classic American hybrid tea rose has been a garden favorite since 1952, beloved for its deep velvety red blooms and powerful damask fragrance. The rich crimson flowers hold their color exceptionally well and are produced on long, strong stems perfect for cutting. A true garden aristocrat, Chrysler Imperial represents the pinnacle of traditional red rose breeding with its perfect form and intoxicating scent.
Harvest
65-75d
Days to harvest
Sun
Full sun
Zones
5–11
USDA hardiness
Height
1-8 feet
Planting Timeline
Showing dates for Chrysler Imperial in USDA Zone 7
All Zone 7 rose →Zone Map
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Chrysler Imperial · Zones 5–11
Growing Details
Zone-by-Zone Planting Calendar
Complete Growing Guide
Chrysler Imperial roses are best established from bare-root canes or container-grown plants rather than seeds, as they don't come true from seed and require grafted stock to produce the classic deep crimson blooms you're seeking. Plant bare-root canes in early spring, about two weeks before your last spring frost, allowing time for root establishment before heat arrives. Container plants can go in the ground anytime during the growing season, though spring and fall plantings are ideal. Chrysler Imperial performs best when planted in well-draining soil enriched with compost or aged manure worked to a depth of 12 to 18 inches. Space plants 3 to 4 feet apart to ensure adequate air circulation, which is critical for this variety's susceptibility to fungal issues in humid climates.
Water deeply at the base of the plant, delivering about one inch per week through rainfall or irrigation. During establishment in the first growing season, water more frequently to encourage strong root development. Once established, Chrysler Imperial benefits from a balanced rose fertilizer applied every four to six weeks during the growing season, starting when new growth emerges in spring. Switch to a lower-nitrogen formula in late summer to harden off canes before winter dormancy.
The long, strong stems that make Chrysler Imperial exceptional for cutting also make it prone to certain pests and diseases. Watch vigilantly for aphids, which congregate on new growth and can distort developing blooms. Japanese beetles will skeletonize foliage in midsummer, while spider mites thrive in hot, dry conditions at the base of the plant. Thrips often inhabit the deep folds of the velvety petals, causing brown spotting on the crimson flowers. Black spot fungus is this variety's Achilles heel in areas with overhead watering or morning dew lingering on foliage; powdery mildew appears as white coating on leaves in cool, humid springs. Apply fungicide preventatively rather than reactively, and ensure excellent air circulation around each plant.
Pruning Chrysler Imperial properly is essential to maintaining its form and encouraging prolific blooming. In early spring, remove all dead or diseased canes, then cut back remaining canes to 18 to 24 inches tall, cutting to outward-facing buds. Throughout the growing season, deadhead spent blooms just above the first five-leaflet leaf to encourage repeat flowering. Many gardeners neglect to remove the lower leaves on cut stems when bringing Chrysler Imperial indoors; this oversight reduces water uptake. Always strip the lower foliage completely, removing at least half the leaves on the stem before placing in water, and recut the stem at a 45-degree angle to maximize water absorption and extend vase life to ten days or more.
Harvesting
Harvest Chrysler Imperial roses when the outer petals begin to unfurl but the bloom remains firm to the gentle touch, typically when the flower reaches two-thirds of its full size with deep crimson color fully developed throughout. The sepals should just begin to relax away from the center, signaling peak fragrance intensity and optimal vase life. This variety performs best with continuous harvesting—removing blooms regularly throughout the growing season encourages additional flower production rather than a single flush. Cut stems in early morning when the plant is fully hydrated, selecting canes with at least three to four leaves remaining to promote strong basal growth and future flowering.
The accessory fruit is called a hip and forms after the flowers finish blooming. The hip will appear under the sepals of where the flower was after the flower dies. They will turn from green to red. They are filled with many achenes surrounded by irritating hairs.
Color: Green, Red/Burgundy. Type: Achene. Length: < 1 inch. Width: < 1 inch.
Garden value: Showy
Harvest time: Fall
Edibility: The fruit (called the hip) is edible.
Storage & Preservation
Fresh Chrysler Imperial roses are best stored in a cool environment—keep cut stems in a vase with fresh, cool water indoors at 65-72°F with moderate humidity. Uncut blooms last 7-10 days in optimal conditions. For preservation: air-dry petals by hanging stems upside-down in a dark, ventilated space for 2-3 weeks to create dried flowers; freeze petals in ice cubes for floral crafts; or press blooms between paper under books for 2-4 weeks to create preserved specimens for arrangements or scrapbooking.
History & Origin
Introduced in 1952 by breeder Herbert Swim at Armstrong Nurseries in California, Chrysler Imperial represents a milestone in American hybrid tea rose development during the post-war golden age of rose breeding. The variety emerged from deliberate crosses within Armstrong's extensive breeding program, which focused on combining deep crimson color with exceptional fragrance and disease resistance. Named to commemorate the luxury automobile brand, Chrysler Imperial capitalized on mid-century American optimism and the growing popularity of ornamental gardening. While detailed parentage records are sparse in readily available documentation, the rose exemplifies the hybrid tea breeding philosophy of its era: prioritizing exhibition-quality form, powerful damask fragrance, and long cutting stems. The variety quickly became an industry standard, earning numerous awards and establishing itself as a cornerstone of traditional red rose cultivation throughout North America and beyond.
Origin: Temp. & Subtropical Northern Hemisphere (such as Europe & Asia)
Advantages
- +Deep velvety crimson blooms maintain color exceptionally well throughout bloom season
- +Powerful damask fragrance is intensely rich and intoxicating, a signature characteristic
- +Long sturdy stems make Chrysler Imperial ideal for cutting and arrangements
- +Classic hybrid tea form represents pinnacle of traditional red rose breeding
- +70+ year proven track record demonstrates reliable garden performance and popularity
Considerations
- -Highly susceptible to black spot, powdery mildew, and rust in humid climates
- -Vulnerable to multiple pests including aphids, Japanese beetles, spider mites, thrips
- -Moderate difficulty level requires consistent care and disease management attention
- -Needs excellent air circulation and well-draining soil to prevent fungal diseases
Companion Plants
Lavender, catmint, and garlic are the companions worth planting close. Lavender and catmint both attract predatory wasps and their scent disrupts aphid host-finding; catmint in particular can act as a trap crop, pulling aphids off rose canes onto itself. Garlic and other alliums get credited with deterring Japanese beetles — the evidence is mostly anecdotal, but their shallow bulbs don't compete with rose roots at the 18–24 inch depth, so there's no downside to trying. French marigolds (Tagetes patula) add nematode suppression in the soil when planted densely and turned under at season's end.
Black walnut is a hard no. It produces juglone, an allelopathic compound that leaches through the soil and will stunt or kill roses — the damage radius around a mature trunk can stretch well past 50 feet. Large trees create a different set of problems: their roots pull water from the same zone roses need it, and any canopy that drops Chrysler Imperial below 6 hours of direct sun also suppresses flowering and keeps foliage damp long enough for Diplocarpon rosae to get a foothold. Impatiens don't produce anything toxic, but they hold moisture and reduce airflow right at the base of a rose, which is exactly the microclimate black spot exploits.
Plant Together
Lavender
Repels aphids, spider mites, and other rose pests while attracting beneficial pollinators
Marigolds
Deters nematodes, aphids, and whiteflies with natural compounds
Garlic
Repels aphids, thrips, and fungal diseases when planted nearby
Catmint
Repels aphids and ants while attracting beneficial insects
Alliums
Natural pest deterrent that repels aphids and improves soil health
Parsley
Attracts beneficial insects like hoverflies that prey on rose pests
Clematis
Provides complementary flowering periods and shares similar soil preferences
Geraniums
Natural pest repellent that deters Japanese beetles and rose chafers
Keep Apart
Black Walnut
Produces juglone toxin that stunts rose growth and can cause wilting
Large Trees
Compete for nutrients and water while creating excessive shade roses need full sun
Impatiens
Susceptible to same fungal diseases as roses, increasing disease pressure
Pests & Disease Resistance
Resistance
Moderate resistance, benefits from preventive care
Common Pests
Aphids, Japanese beetles, spider mites, thrips
Diseases
Black spot, powdery mildew, rust in humid conditions
Troubleshooting Chrysler Imperial
What you'll see, why it happens, and what to do about it.
Dark spots with feathered or irregular edges on leaves, leaves yellowing and dropping — often starting in summer
Likely Causes
- Black spot (Diplocarpon rosae) — a fungal disease that splashes up from soil or infected fallen leaves and thrives when foliage stays wet for more than 6 hours
- Chrysler Imperial is a susceptible cultivar; humid conditions accelerate spread to canes as well
What to Do
- 1.Strip and trash (do not compost) all infected leaves, including those already on the ground
- 2.Mulch the base of the plant in late winter to reduce soil splash, and water only at the base — never overhead — so leaves dry before nightfall
- 3.Prune out any cane infections in winter and open up the canopy with a hard spring pruning; NC State Extension's IPM resources note that resistant cultivars like Knock Out or 'Carefree Beauty' are worth considering if you replace the plant
White powdery coating on new leaves, buds, and shoot tips — usually appearing in spring or early fall when nights are cool and days are warm
Likely Causes
- Powdery mildew (Podosphaera pannosa) — unlike most fungi, this one spreads in dry conditions with high humidity, not rain
- Crowded planting under 3 feet apart that restricts air circulation
What to Do
- 1.Cut off and discard the worst-affected shoots; don't leave them on the ground
- 2.Space new plants at least 3–4 feet apart and hold off on high-nitrogen fertilizer in late summer, which pushes the soft new growth this fungus targets
- 3.Apply potassium bicarbonate or neem oil every 7–10 days at first sign to slow progression
New shoots that stay red instead of greening up, distorted or stunted growth, or leaves showing a yellow mosaic pattern — sometimes in an 'oak leaf' shape
Likely Causes
- Rose rosette virus (RRV) — spread by the eriophyid mite Phyllocoptes fructiphylus; once inside the plant, there is no cure
- Rose mosaic virus (RMV) — a separate disease with a similar yellow mosaic pattern, often introduced on infected nursery stock at purchase
What to Do
- 1.NC State Extension notes that elongated red new shoots that don't green up are an early indicator of RRV — if you see this, dig and bag the entire plant before mites carry it to neighboring roses
- 2.Inspect any new rose purchase carefully before planting; skip anything showing mosaic patterning or distorted foliage
- 3.Apply a miticide to healthy nearby roses in spring to knock back eriophyid mite populations, since mite pressure is the primary driver of RRV spread