Indian Pink

Spigelia marilandica

A single pink flower with green leaves in nature.

Indian Pink (Spigelia marilandica) is a perennial native wildflower. Hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9. Prefers part sun.

Sun

Partial shade

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Zones

5–9

USDA hardiness

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Height

12-24 inches

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Planting Timeline

Zone:

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

Transplant

Direct Sow

Transplant

Direct Sow

Showing dates for Indian Pink in USDA Zone 7

All Zone 7 native-wildflower →

Zone Map

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Indian Pink · Zones 5–9

What grows well in Zone 7? →

Growing Details

Difficulty

Easy

Spacing12-18 inches

SoilWell-drained loam enriched with compost, slightly acidic (pH 6.0–6.5)

pHAcid ( 6.0)

WaterHigh

SeasonPerennial

ColorCrimson-red exterior with yellow interior

Zone-by-Zone Planting Calendar

Zone	Indoor Start	Transplant	Direct Sow	Harvest
Zone 5	—	May – July	April – June	—
Zone 6	—	May – July	April – June	—
Zone 7	—	May – June	March – May	—
Zone 8	—	April – June	March – May	—
Zone 9	—	March – May	February – April	—

Complete Growing Guide

Light: Dappled Sunlight (Shade through upper canopy all day), Deep shade (Less than 2 hours to no direct sunlight), Partial Shade (Direct sunlight only part of the day, 2-6 hours). Soil: High Organic Matter. Soil pH: Acid (<6.0). Drainage: Good Drainage, Moist, Occasionally Wet. Height: 1 ft. 0 in. - 2 ft. 0 in.. Spread: 0 ft. 6 in. - 1 ft. 6 in.. Spacing: 12 inches-3 feet. Growth rate: Medium. Maintenance: Low. Propagation: Division, Seed, Stem Cutting. Regions: Mountains.

Harvesting

Two-celled seed capsules release their seeds in June and July.

Type: Capsule.

Harvest time: Summer

Storage & Preservation

Indian Pink is not harvested for food storage. If collecting seed for next season, dry the ripe seed pods completely at room temperature (65–75°F) in a well-ventilated area for 5–10 days. Once fully dry, store seeds in an airtight container (glass jar or seed envelope) in a cool, dark location (32–50°F ideally). Properly stored Indian Pink seeds remain viable for 2–3 years.

If preserving cut flowers, recut stems at a 45-degree angle and place immediately in room-temperature water with a floral preservative packet (or a mix of sugar, bleach, and water). Change water every 2–3 days and remove any foliage below the waterline. Blooms last longest in cool rooms away from ripening fruit and direct sunlight. For dried arrangements, hang cut stems upside-down in a warm, dry, dark location for 2–3 weeks until papery.

History & Origin

Origin: East central and southeastern United States

Advantages

+Attracts: Hummingbirds, Songbirds
+Low maintenance

Considerations

-Toxic (Flowers, Fruits, Leaves, Roots, Seeds, Stems): Low severity

Companion Plants

Wild Ginger (Asarum canadense) is the most practical ground-level pairing — it fills bare soil around Spigelia's base, suppresses weeds, and shares the same preference for moist, acidic shade without crowding the root zone. Ferns do similar work with more vertical interest. Purple Coneflower and Wild Columbine suit the sunnier edges where the canopy opens up, and both pull in ruby-throated hummingbirds alongside Indian Pink's own tubular red blooms — you get a longer hummingbird window across the whole planting. Black Walnut is a hard no: juglone, the allelopathic compound its roots release, is lethal to Spigelia, and no amount of soil amendment changes that.

Plant Together

Wild Bergamot

Attracts beneficial pollinators and shares similar native habitat requirements

Purple Coneflower

Both are native perennials that attract butterflies and beneficial insects

Wild Ginger

Provides ground cover and shares preference for partial shade and moist soil

Coral Bells

Complementary foliage texture and both thrive in woodland garden settings

Ferns

Create beneficial microclimate with increased humidity and filtered light

Trillium

Both are native woodland plants that prefer similar soil and light conditions

Wild Columbine

Attracts different pollinators and blooms at complementary times

Bloodroot

Early spring bloomer that shares native woodland habitat preferences

Keep Apart

Black Walnut

Produces juglone which is toxic to many plants including native wildflowers

Mint

Aggressive spreader that can overwhelm and outcompete delicate native plants

Fennel

Releases allelopathic compounds that inhibit growth of nearby plants

Troubleshooting Indian Pink

What you'll see, why it happens, and what to do about it.

Leaves wilting or yellowing in patches despite regular watering, soil staying wet

Likely Causes

Root rot from Phytophthora or Pythium species — both thrive in waterlogged, poorly drained soil
Planting in a site with less than 4 hours of dappled shade, causing moisture to evaporate unevenly and stress roots

What to Do

1.Dig up a plant and check the roots — brown, mushy roots confirm rot; healthy roots are white and firm
2.Amend the bed with coarse grit or pine bark fines to improve drainage before replanting
3.Relocate to a spot with consistent moisture that doesn't pool after rain — a north-facing slope or under deciduous canopy works well

Flower buds forming but dropping before opening, or blooms lasting only 1-2 days

Likely Causes

Soil pH above 6.5 — Spigelia marilandica strongly prefers acidic conditions around 6.0 and nutrient uptake suffers above that range
Drought stress during bud set, which typically happens in late spring when soil can dry out fast

What to Do

1.Test your soil pH with a basic kit; if it's above 6.2, top-dress with elemental sulfur at the rate on the package and water in
2.Mulch 2-3 inches deep with shredded hardwood or pine straw to hold moisture through the bud-set window
3.Water deeply twice a week during dry spells rather than light daily sprinkles

Sluggish establishment after transplant — plant sits unchanged for 4-6 weeks, minimal new growth

Likely Causes

Spigelia marilandica has a slow-to-establish root system and resents root disturbance; bare-root or rough transplanting is a common culprit
Transplanting into a site with fewer than 4 hours of shade, causing the plant to redirect energy into stress response rather than root development

What to Do

1.Don't fertilize or move it — Indian Pink often stalls for a full season before taking off in year two, and fussing with it makes things worse
2.Keep the root zone consistently moist for the first 8 weeks; let the top inch dry slightly between waterings but no more
3.Next time, transplant in May or early June when soil temps are reliably above 55°F and the deciduous canopy has fully leafed in overhead

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does Indian Pink take to grow from seed to flowering?▼

Indian Pink is slow to mature. Seed typically germinates in 14–21 days after cold stratification, but seedlings remain small the first year and focus on root development. Most plants reach flowering size in 2–3 years. This slow establishment is normal for native wildflowers and reflects their long-term perennial strategy rather than a problem—patience is rewarded with decades of reliable blooms.

Can you grow Indian Pink in containers?▼

Yes, Indian Pink grows well in containers, particularly in zones where in-ground establishment proves difficult. Use a large pot (12–14 inches wide) with excellent drainage, filled with a mix of potting soil and compost. Place in dappled light (4–6 hours sun) and water when the top inch of soil dries. Container plants may need dividing every 3–4 years as they mature. Ensure the pot drains freely to prevent the root rot that kills potted Indian Pink faster than in-ground plants.

Does Indian Pink really attract hummingbirds?▼

Absolutely. The narrow tubular flowers and red coloring are specifically adapted to hummingbird pollination. Ruby-throated hummingbirds visit Indian Pink regularly throughout its bloom period. Growing Indian Pink as part of a native plant garden creates a natural hummingbird corridor, especially when combined with other native tubular bloomers like bee balm and trumpet vine.

Is Indian Pink good for beginners?▼

Indian Pink is easy to grow once established, making it excellent for beginners willing to be patient during year one. The main skills required are proper site selection (partial shade, well-drained soil), initial consistent watering, and restraint from overwatering. There are no complicated pruning techniques, no fertilizer schedules, and no common pests. The only real challenge is resisting the urge to move the plant or assume it's failing—slow growth in year one is normal.

When should I plant Indian Pink seeds?▼

Fall is ideal for direct sowing Indian Pink seed outdoors—sow from September through November so seeds experience natural winter cold stratification. The seed will germinate as soil warms in spring. Alternatively, start seeds indoors in late February or March: cold-stratify for 30 days in the refrigerator, then sow under grow lights at 70°F. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost date once soil temperature reaches 60°F.

Why isn't my Indian Pink blooming?▼

The most common reason is insufficient light—aim for 4–6 hours of dappled sunlight, with at least some direct morning sun. Plants in heavy shade flower poorly or not at all. The second reason is youth: young plants focus on root development and may not flower until year 2 or 3. Finally, overwatering or poor drainage can stress the plant. Ensure soil dries slightly between waterings and amend heavy clay before planting. Give young plants a full growing season before expecting blooms.