Heirloom

Apollo Orange

Asclepias curassavica

Wikimedia Commons

Tall, vigorous plants do best in warm, relatively dry conditions. Vivid orange blooms with attractive, slender foliage. Best used for cut flowers. Asclepias curassavica is attractive to butterflies and pollinators but we recommend planting a native species for best supporting butterflies. Also known as milkweed, butterfly weed, blood flower, and sunset flower. Tender perennial in Zones 7-10.

Harvest

90-100d

Days to harvest

📅

Sun

Full sun

☀️

Zones

8–11

USDA hardiness

🗺️

Height

2-3 feet

📏

Planting Timeline

Zone:

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

Transplant

Direct Sow

Transplant

Direct Sow

Showing dates for Apollo Orange in USDA Zone 7

All Zone 7 native-wildflower →

Zone Map

Click a state to update dates

Apollo Orange · Zones 8–11

What grows well in Zone 7? →

Growing Details

Difficulty

Easy

Spacing12-18 inches

SoilWell-draining loam or average garden soil; tolerates poor, dry soils

WaterModerate; drought-tolerant once established. Prefers drier conditions; avoid overwatering

SeasonTender Perennial

ColorVivid orange with reddish tones

Zone-by-Zone Planting Calendar

Zone	Indoor Start	Transplant	Direct Sow	Harvest
Zone 3	—	June – August	May – July	—
Zone 4	—	June – July	April – June	—
Zone 5	—	May – July	April – June	—
Zone 6	—	May – July	April – June	—
Zone 7	—	May – June	March – May	—
Zone 8	—	April – June	March – May	—
Zone 9	—	March – May	February – April	—
Zone 10	—	March – April	January – March	—
Zone 11	—	February – March	January – February	—

Complete Growing Guide

Light: Full sun (6 or more hours of direct sunlight a day). Soil: High Organic Matter, Loam (Silt), Sand. Soil pH: Acid (<6.0), Neutral (6.0-8.0). Drainage: Good Drainage. Height: 2 ft. 0 in. - 3 ft. 0 in.. Spread: 1 ft. 0 in. - 2 ft. 0 in.. Spacing: 12 inches-3 feet. Growth rate: Medium. Maintenance: Low. Propagation: Division, Seed. Regions: Coastal.

Harvesting

The fruits are dry and inflated with an erect follicle and many hair-tufted seeds. They are often used in dried arrangements.

Color: Brown/Copper. Type: Follicle. Length: > 3 inches. Width: < 1 inch.

Garden value: Showy

Harvest time: Fall, Summer

Storage & Preservation

Fresh-cut Apollo Orange stems last 7-10 days in a vase with clean water and floral preservative. Change water every 2-3 days and re-cut stems at an angle to maximize water uptake. For longer enjoyment, dry flowers for everlasting arrangements: hang small bundles upside down in a warm, dry, dark location for 2-3 weeks until papery to the touch. Dried Apollo Orange retains its orange color well and adds textural interest to dried arrangements for months.

Pressed flowers work beautifully in botanical crafts and herbals. Place individual flowers or flower clusters between newspaper or parchment paper, layer them in a heavy book, and allow 3-4 weeks for complete drying. Preserve seeds by allowing pods to fully mature on the plant, then collecting and storing seeds in a cool, dry place in paper envelopes for up to 2-3 years of viability.

History & Origin

Apollo Orange is open-pollinated, meaning seed saved from healthy plants will produce true-to-type offspring. Listed in the Johnny's Selected Seeds catalog.

Origin: Mexico to Tropical America

Advantages

+Attracts: Bees, Hummingbirds, Moths, Pollinators
+Low maintenance

Considerations

-Toxic (Bark, Flowers, Fruits, Leaves, Roots, Seeds, Stems): Low severity
-Causes contact dermatitis

Companion Plants

The native prairie and meadow plants in Apollo Orange's companion list share its preference for lean, well-drained soil and full sun — and that shared tolerance is the main reason they work. Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta), and Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) all bloom across a long season, which keeps generalist pollinators cycling through the planting. Those same insects — native bees, syrphid flies, parasitic wasps — are the ones that keep oleander aphid pressure manageable on your milkweed without any intervention from you. Goldenrod picks up that work in late summer when Apollo Orange is still flowering. Wild Lupine is worth mentioning separately: it fixes atmospheric nitrogen through root nodules, which feeds neighboring plants without pushing Apollo Orange toward the lush, soft new growth that aphids find most attractive.

The harmful companions are all aggressive spreaders that win the space competition fast. Crown Vetch (Coronilla varia) and Canada Thistle (Cirsium arvense) are both listed as invasive in many states and will crowd out milkweed within 2–3 seasons if left unchecked. Tall Fescue produces allelopathic compounds that suppress forb seedling germination — you'll have a hard time getting Apollo Orange to establish from seed in a fescue-heavy area. Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus altissima) does something similar through root exudates and decomposing leaf litter. Any of these four will cost you more in pulling and replanting than they're worth to have nearby.

Plant Together

Purple Coneflower

Attracts beneficial pollinators and creates complementary native wildflower display

Black-eyed Susan

Similar growing conditions and bloom times, attracts butterflies and native bees

Wild Bergamot

Natural pest deterrent with aromatic oils, attracts beneficial insects

Native Bunch Grasses

Provides natural mulching and erosion control without competing for nutrients

Yarrow

Deep roots bring nutrients to surface, attracts predatory insects that control pests

Goldenrod

Late season nectar source, supports beneficial insects throughout growing season

Wild Lupine

Nitrogen-fixing legume improves soil fertility for surrounding wildflowers

Serviceberry

Provides partial shade and windbreak, attracts diverse pollinators

Keep Apart

Crown Vetch

Aggressive spreader that can outcompete and smother native wildflowers

Canada Thistle

Invasive perennial weed that competes heavily for water and nutrients

Tall Fescue

Allelopathic grass that releases chemicals inhibiting wildflower germination and growth

Tree of Heaven

Produces allelopathic compounds that suppress native plant growth and establishment

Troubleshooting Apollo Orange

What you'll see, why it happens, and what to do about it.

Leaves and stems covered in dense clusters of small orange or yellow insects, with sticky residue on foliage

Likely Causes

Oleander aphid (Aphis nerii) — a specialist aphid that colonizes milkweed almost exclusively and reproduces fast in warm weather
Absence of predatory insects, especially in newly established or isolated plantings

What to Do

1.Knock aphids off with a firm spray of water from a hose — do this in the morning so foliage dries before evening
2.Tolerate light infestations; ladybug larvae and parasitic wasps (Lysiphlebus testaceipes) will show up within a week or two if you don't spray
3.If the colony is severe and monarch caterpillars are present, spot-treat only aphid-heavy stems with insecticidal soap, keeping it off any caterpillars or chrysalises

Stems wilting and collapsing at the base, or plant failing to establish after transplant with yellowing lower leaves

Likely Causes

Root rot from overwatering or poorly drained soil — Asclepias curassavica is genuinely drought-tolerant once established and does not want wet feet
Transplant shock combined with heavy clay soil that holds water after rain

What to Do

1.Cut back on watering immediately; established plants can go 10–14 days between waterings in average summer conditions
2.If the planting site stays wet after rain, amend with coarse sand or fine gravel, or move the plant to a raised area with better drainage
3.At transplant time, don't bury the stem deeper than it sat in the pot — milkweed crowns rot quickly when packed with damp soil

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does Apollo Orange take to flower from seed?▼

Apollo Orange typically flowers 90-100 days after sowing. For blooms by mid-summer, start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before your last spring frost date. Direct sowing after soil warms produces flowers by late summer. Growth accelerates in warm temperatures, so planting in warm soil (60°F+) speeds flowering.

Is Apollo Orange a perennial or annual?▼

Apollo Orange is a tender perennial hardy in Zones 7-10. In Zones 7-9, it's typically grown as an annual or dug up and overwintered indoors. In Zone 10, it persists year-round and often self-seeds. Most gardeners outside Zone 9 replant annually for best vigor and flower production.

Can you grow Apollo Orange in pots?▼

Yes, Apollo Orange grows well in containers. Use well-draining potting soil in a 5-gallon or larger pot. Place in full sun and water moderately—allow soil to dry slightly between waterings to prevent root rot. Container plants may be smaller than garden-grown plants but produce excellent cut flowers. In cold zones, potted plants can be moved indoors before frost.

Why are my Apollo Orange plants dying after planting?▼

The most common cause is overwatering or poor drainage leading to root rot. Apollo Orange prefers drier conditions and actually thrives with less water than most ornamentals. Ensure soil drains freely and water only when the top inch of soil is dry. Planting too early (before soil warms to 60°F+) also stunts growth and invites disease.

Is Apollo Orange good for cutting and arranging?▼

Absolutely—Apollo Orange is excellent for cut flowers, with a vase life of 7-10 days. Harvest stems in early morning, cutting just below a leaf node. Remove lower leaves from stems and use floral preservative in vase water. The plant blooms continuously, so you can harvest frequently without depleting it.

Will Apollo Orange attract monarch butterflies?▼

Apollo Orange attracts many butterfly species and is an excellent nectar source. However, it's not a host plant for monarch caterpillars. If your goal is supporting monarchs, plant native Asclepias species like A. incarnata, A. syriaca, or A. tuberosa instead. Apollo Orange is still valuable for overall pollinator support.