Heirloom

Upland Cress

Barbarea verna

Wikimedia Commons

Slow to start but, once established, easy to grow. Long standing and slow bolting. 6-8" rosettes of dark green, glossy, rounded leaves. Similar to watercress but much easier to grow. Sometimes called "creasy greens" in the South.

Harvest

50d

Days to harvest

📅

Sun

Part sun

☀️

Zones

1–11

USDA hardiness

🗺️

Height

6-8 inches

📏

Planting Timeline

Zone:

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

Direct Sow

Harvest

Direct Sow

Harvest

Showing dates for Upland Cress in USDA Zone 7

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Zone Map

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Upland Cress · Zones 1–11

What grows well in Zone 7? →

Growing Details

Difficulty

Easy

Spacing6-8 inches

SoilWell-draining loam enriched with organic matter, moderate fertility

WaterConsistent; approximately 1 inch per week

SeasonWarm season annual

FlavorPeppery, slightly bitter, mineral-forward; milder than watercress, with tender young leaves and more pronounced spice in mature growth

ColorDark green

Size6-8"

Zone-by-Zone Planting Calendar

Zone	Indoor Start	Transplant	Direct Sow	Harvest
Zone 1	—	—	June – July	July – September
Zone 2	—	—	May – July	July – September
Zone 11	—	—	January – February	February – December
Zone 12	—	—	January – February	February – December
Zone 13	—	—	January – February	February – December
Zone 3	—	—	May – June	June – October
Zone 4	—	—	April – June	June – October
Zone 5	—	—	April – May	June – November
Zone 6	—	—	April – May	May – November
Zone 7	—	—	March – May	May – November
Zone 8	—	—	March – April	April – December
Zone 9	—	—	February – March	March – December
Zone 10	—	—	January – March	March – December

Succession Planting

Direct sow every 14–18 days from March through early May in zone 7, then stop once daytime highs are consistently above 80°F — upland cress bolts fast in heat and the leaves turn bitter within days of flowering. Pick it back up in late August, sowing every 2–3 weeks through mid-October. At 50 days to harvest, a sowing on September 20th will still come in before a hard frost in most of zone 7.

Don't push new sowings too deep into November — germination slows noticeably below 45°F soil temperature and you'll get thin, patchy stands. Two solid fall successions are worth more than a third that stalls out in cold ground.

Complete Growing Guide

Growing Upland Cress (Barbarea verna) lettuce. Light: Part sun. Hardy in USDA zones 1 to 11. Days to maturity: 50. Difficulty: Easy.

Harvesting

Ready for harvest in 50 days from sowing or transplant. Harvest at peak ripeness for best flavor and storage life. Pick regularly to encourage continued production where applicable.

Storage & Preservation

Upland cress keeps best when refrigerated immediately after harvest at 32–40°F in a perforated plastic bag or container lined with damp paper towels; this maintains crispness for 7–10 days. Humidity should stay high to prevent wilting. For longer preservation, freezing works well: blanch leaves for 2–3 minutes, cool in ice water, drain thoroughly, and freeze in airtight bags for up to 8 months. Dried upland cress retains its peppery bite better than most greens—hang-dry in bundles or use a dehydrator at 95–105°F until papery, then store in an airtight jar away from light. Fermenting is also excellent; pack leaves with salt (5% by weight) in jars, pressing until brine covers them, and ferment at room temperature for 3–5 weeks for a tangy condiment. Unlike milder lettuces, upland cress's mustard-like flavor actually intensifies slightly when preserved, making it particularly suited to fermentation and drying applications.

History & Origin

Barbarea verna is a biennial herb in the family Brassicaceae. Common names include land cress, American cress, bank cress, black wood cress, Belle Isle cress, Bermuda cress, poor man's cabbage, early yellowrocket, early wintercress, scurvy cress, creasy greens, and upland cress. It is native to southern Europe and western Asia, and naturalized elsewhere It has been cultivated as a leaf vegetable in England since the 17th century. As it requires less water than watercress, it is easier to cultivate.

Advantages

+Easy to grow — beginner-friendly
+Quick harvest — ready in about 50 days
+Wide hardiness — grows in USDA zones 1-11

Companion Plants

Radishes are the most practical companion for upland cress — they germinate in 5–7 days, break up the top inch of soil, and draw flea beetles (Phyllotreta spp.) away from the cress before its canopy fills in. Chives planted along the bed edge interfere with cabbage moths and aphids through scent masking, which is a real if modest effect. Nasturtiums pull double duty: they're a known aphid trap crop, and their low, dense foliage shades enough bare soil to slow moisture loss between waterings.

Skip planting upland cress anywhere near other brassicas — broccoli, kale, arugula, even mustard greens share the same flea beetle and Peronospora downy mildew pressure, and stacking them in one area just makes scouting harder and outbreaks worse. Fennel doesn't play well with most vegetables; its root exudates suppress nearby plant growth through allelopathy, and it has no business in a mixed salad bed.

Plant Together

Chives

Repels aphids and other soft-bodied insects that commonly attack leafy greens

Radishes

Break up soil for shallow-rooted cress and mature quickly without competing for space

Carrots

Deep roots don't compete with shallow cress roots, and carrots help aerate soil

Marigolds

Repel aphids, whiteflies, and other pests that damage leafy greens

Nasturtiums

Act as trap crop for aphids and flea beetles, drawing pests away from cress

Lettuce

Similar growing requirements and harvest timing, efficient use of garden space

Spinach

Compatible growth habits and water needs, both prefer cool weather

Dill

Attracts beneficial insects like lacewings and parasitic wasps that control aphids

Keep Apart

Brassicas

Compete for same nutrients and attract similar pests like flea beetles and cabbage worms

Fennel

Releases allelopathic compounds that inhibit growth of most vegetables including cress

Sunflowers

Create excessive shade and compete aggressively for water and nutrients

Nutrition Facts

Protein

0.742g(1%)

Carbs

3.37g(1%)

Fat

0.0738g(0%)

Vitamin K

20.5mcg(17%)

Iron

0.0332mg(0%)

Calcium

14.2mg(1%)

Potassium

139mg(3%)

Per 100g serving. % Daily Value based on 2,000 calorie diet. Source: USDA FoodData Central (FDC #2346388)

Pests & Disease Resistance

Common Pests

Cabbage moths, flea beetles, slugs

Diseases

Downy mildew, damping off (seedlings in waterlogged conditions)

Troubleshooting Upland Cress

What you'll see, why it happens, and what to do about it.

Seedlings collapse at the soil line within the first 7–10 days after germination, sometimes with a fuzzy whitish mold visible on the soil surface

Likely Causes

Damping off — typically Pythium or Rhizoctonia spp. — triggered by waterlogged, poorly drained soil
Sowing into cold, wet ground before soil has had a chance to drain between rains

What to Do

1.Don't sow into saturated beds; wait until the top inch of soil crumbles rather than clumps
2.Work in compost or coarse perlite before seeding to improve drainage
3.If you've had damping off in the same bed before, drench the seedbed with a diluted neem solution at sowing — it won't cure an outbreak but it slows spread

Tiny, irregular shothole pits punched through leaves, especially on young growth, appearing rapidly in dry weather

Likely Causes

Flea beetles (Phyllotreta spp.) — small, jumping beetles that feed heavily on Brassica-family greens like upland cress

What to Do

1.Cover the bed with row cover immediately at sowing — flea beetles find plants fast and young seedlings have little leaf area to spare
2.Keep the bed consistently moist; flea beetles prefer dry, dusty conditions and back off with regular irrigation
3.For a bad infestation, spinosad spray (an OMRI-listed organic option) applied in the evening reduces adults without hitting pollinators

Grayish-white fuzzy patches on the undersides of older leaves, with yellowing on the corresponding upper surface, spreading bed-wide in cool, humid weather

Likely Causes

Downy mildew (Peronospora parasitica) — a water mold that sporulates in humid conditions, especially when temperatures sit between 50–65°F
Crowded planting that traps moisture between plants

What to Do

1.Thin plants to at least 6 inches apart so air moves through the canopy
2.Water at the base of the plant, not overhead, and always in the morning so foliage dries before nightfall
3.Pull and bag — don't compost — heavily infected leaves; rotate that bed out of cress and other brassicas for one full season

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does upland cress take to grow from seed to harvest?▼

Upland cress reaches harvestable size in 35-50 days from sowing, depending on temperature and light. You can begin harvesting outer leaves at 35 days (4-5 inches tall) or wait for full 6-8 inch rosettes at 50 days. Cool temperatures (50-65°F) accelerate maturity; warm weather slows growth. Succession planting every 3 weeks ensures continuous supply throughout the growing season.

Is upland cress good for beginners?▼

Yes—once established, upland cress is one of the easiest greens for new gardeners. It tolerates poor soil, requires no special equipment or trellising, and self-regulates pests better than many brassicas. The main challenge is the slow establishment phase (weeks 1-3); consistent moisture and patience during this period sets up months of effortless harvesting. Avoid planting in full sun or allowing soil to dry out during seedling stage.

Can you grow upland cress in containers?▼

Yes, upland cress thrives in containers, pots, or raised beds with a minimum depth of 8-10 inches and good drainage. Use high-quality potting mix amended with compost. Container-grown plants often bolt slightly faster due to heat absorption, so provide afternoon shade in summer and water daily to maintain consistent moisture. A 12-inch pot accommodates 3-4 plants and yields continuously for a household.

What does upland cress taste like?▼

Upland cress offers a peppery, slightly peppery, mineral-forward flavor similar to watercress but milder and less harsh. Young leaves are tender and fresh with a gentle bite; mature leaves develop a more pronounced spicy-bitter character. The flavor is enhanced by cool weather and consistent moisture; plants stressed by heat or drought turn excessively bitter. Use young leaves raw in salads or cook mature greens like spinach.

When should I plant upland cress?▼

Upland cress is a cool-season crop and performs best in spring (2-4 weeks before last frost) and fall (8 weeks before first frost). In mild climates (zones 8-10), fall planting is often preferable, as plants establish during cool months and produce through winter. Avoid summer sowing in hot regions; heat drives bolting. In zones 6-7, successive spring plantings every 3 weeks until late May work well, with fall crops being more reliable.

Upland cress vs. watercress—what's the difference?▼

Both deliver peppery flavor, but upland cress grows in regular garden soil while watercress requires flowing water or constant moisture. Upland cress has rounded, glossy leaves and rosette form; watercress trails with small oval leaflets. Upland cress is far easier for home gardeners, requiring no special structure, and is more reliable in fluctuating climates. Watercress is slightly peppery in raw form; upland cress offers broader culinary flexibility.