Heirloom

Sylvetta

Diplotaxis tenuifolia

Wikimedia Commons

More compact than Bellezia, with deeply lobed leaves and a pungent flavor. Popular with chefs. Edible Flowers: Harvest the yellow flowers as they appear. Sprinkle them over salads or add to vegetable stir-fries. Flavor is spicy and nutty. Popular choice for brightening up salad mix.

Harvest

35d

Days to harvest

📅

Sun

Full sun to partial shade

☀️

Zones

5–9

USDA hardiness

🗺️

Height

6-24 inches

📏

Planting Timeline

Zone:

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

Direct Sow

Harvest

Direct Sow

Harvest

Showing dates for Sylvetta in USDA Zone 7

All Zone 7 lettuce →

Zone Map

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Sylvetta · Zones 5–9

What grows well in Zone 7? →

Growing Details

Difficulty

Easy

Spacing6-8 inches

SoilWell-draining loam with organic matter, pH 6.0-7.0

WaterRegular, consistent moisture; approximately 1-1.5 inches per week

SeasonWarm season annual

FlavorIntensely peppery with complex spicy-nutty undertones, more sophisticated and bold than common cultivated arugula; flowers add complementary peppery-nutty notes

ColorDeep green

Zone-by-Zone Planting Calendar

Zone	Indoor Start	Transplant	Direct Sow	Harvest
Zone 1	—	—	June – July	July – September
Zone 2	—	—	May – July	June – September
Zone 11	—	—	January – February	January – December
Zone 12	—	—	January – February	January – December
Zone 13	—	—	January – February	January – December
Zone 3	—	—	May – June	June – October
Zone 4	—	—	April – June	May – October
Zone 5	—	—	April – May	May – November
Zone 6	—	—	April – May	May – November
Zone 7	—	—	March – May	April – November
Zone 8	—	—	March – April	April – December
Zone 9	—	—	February – March	March – December
Zone 10	—	—	January – March	February – December

Succession Planting

Sylvetta bolts when daytime highs push consistently above 85°F, but it's slower to go than most cultivated lettuces — the peppery bite sharpens noticeably in the week before the plant gives up, so you'll get a warning. In zone 7, direct sow every 14 days from March 1 through early May, then pause once heat sets in. Pick back up in mid-August and sow through late September for fall harvest running into November.

For zones 5–6, hold the spring start until late March or early April once soil temperature reaches 50°F, and wrap up fall sowings by mid-September. Zones 8–9 flip the calendar — fall is your main season, with sowings from September through October producing well into winter.

Complete Growing Guide

Light: Dappled Sunlight (Shade through upper canopy all day), Full sun (6 or more hours of direct sunlight a day). Soil: Clay, Loam (Silt), Sand, Shallow Rocky. Soil pH: Acid (<6.0), Alkaline (>8.0), Neutral (6.0-8.0). Drainage: Good Drainage, Moist, Occasionally Dry. Height: 0 ft. 6 in. - 2 ft. 0 in.. Spread: 1 ft. 0 in. - 2 ft. 0 in.. Spacing: 12 inches-3 feet. Growth rate: Rapid. Maintenance: Low. Propagation: Seed. Regions: Coastal, Mountains, Piedmont.

Harvesting

The capsule splits into 2 halves when mature

Color: Brown/Copper. Type: Capsule. Length: < 1 inch. Width: < 1 inch.

Edibility: Can be used both raw and cooked

Storage & Preservation

Harvest Sylvetta at 35 days and store leaves in a breathable plastic bag in the refrigerator at 32–40°F with 95% humidity; they'll keep for 5–7 days, though best flavor comes within 2–3 days. For longer preservation, blanch leaves briefly in boiling water, chill in ice water, then freeze in airtight containers for up to three months. Sylvetta also dries well: spread clean leaves on a screen in a warm, dark, well-ventilated space until crisp, then store in an airtight jar away from light. The peppery notes intensify slightly when dried, making them excellent for winter soups and salads. Unlike milder lettuces, Sylvetta's robust flavor holds up remarkably well to freezing without becoming mushy, so don't hesitate to preserve larger harvests this way.

History & Origin

Origin: Europe, western Asia and northern Africa

Advantages

+Attracts: Pollinators
+Edible: Can be used both raw and cooked
+Fast-growing
+Low maintenance

Companion Plants

Chives and garlic are the most practical neighbors here — both emit volatile sulfur compounds that deter aphids and flea beetles, and neither competes hard for water at 6–8 inch spacing. Radishes pull double duty: fast-germinating ones act as a trap crop for flea beetles, drawing them off young Sylvetta before it gets chewed to lace. Tagetes patula (French marigold specifically) has documented nematode-suppressing activity in the root zone via alpha-terthienyl, which matters in beds with any Meloidogyne history. Skip fennel altogether — it produces root exudates that stunt most nearby vegetables — and keep sunflowers at a distance, since they'll out-compete for moisture and cast enough shade to flatten a planting that's already trying to hit 24 inches.

Plant Together

Chives

Repels aphids and other soft-bodied insects that commonly attack lettuce

Marigolds

Deters nematodes and aphids while attracting beneficial predatory insects

Carrots

Deep roots don't compete with shallow lettuce roots, and carrots help break up soil

Radishes

Fast-growing companion that helps break up soil and can be harvested before lettuce needs space

Garlic

Natural pest deterrent that repels aphids, slugs, and other lettuce pests

Nasturtiums

Acts as trap crop for aphids and cucumber beetles while attracting beneficial insects

Dill

Attracts beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings that prey on lettuce pests

Spinach

Similar growing requirements and harvest timing, efficient use of garden space

Keep Apart

Sunflowers

Large size creates excessive shade and competes heavily for water and nutrients

Broccoli

Heavy feeder that competes for nutrients and can overshadow delicate lettuce plants

Fennel

Releases allelopathic compounds that inhibit growth of lettuce and most other vegetables

Nutrition Facts

Protein

0.742g(1%)

Carbs

3.37g(1%)

Fat

0.0738g(0%)

Vitamin K

20.5mcg(17%)

Iron

0.0332mg(0%)

Calcium

14.2mg(1%)

Potassium

139mg(3%)

Per 100g serving. % Daily Value based on 2,000 calorie diet. Source: USDA FoodData Central (FDC #2346388)

Pests & Disease Resistance

Common Pests

Flea beetles, cabbage worms, slugs (generally resistant compared to cultivated lettuces)

Diseases

Downy mildew, bacterial leaf spot (generally disease resistant compared to cultivated lettuces)

Troubleshooting Sylvetta

What you'll see, why it happens, and what to do about it.

Seedlings collapse at soil level within the first 7–10 days after direct sowing

Likely Causes

Damping off — a complex of soil-borne fungi (Pythium spp., Rhizoctonia solani) that thrives in cold, wet, poorly-drained soil
Overwatering or heavy clay soil that holds moisture too long after germination

What to Do

1.Pull the dead seedlings and check the stem base — if it's pinched and brown at the soil line, damping off is the culprit; don't replant in that spot this season
2.Let the bed surface dry slightly between waterings; Sylvetta wants consistent moisture, not saturated soil
3.Thin to 6–8 inches so air moves between plants — dense stands stay wet longer and give the fungus a foothold

Small ragged holes punched through leaves, especially on young growth, starting shortly after germination

Likely Causes

Flea beetles (Phyllotreta spp.) — tiny, fast-jumping beetles that feed heavily on young brassica-family plants; Sylvetta (Diplotaxis tenuifolia) is in the mustard family and draws them in
Damage is worse during warm, dry spells in spring and late summer

What to Do

1.Cover the bed with row cover immediately after sowing — flea beetles are easiest to exclude before they find the planting
2.Once plants are 4–5 inches tall and growing fast, they can usually outpace the damage; row cover becomes optional at that point
3.Spinosad-based sprays (OMRI-listed) knock back heavy populations if you'd rather not use row cover

Gray-purple fuzzy growth on the underside of older leaves, with yellow patches on the upper surface

Likely Causes

Downy mildew (Peronospora sparsa or a related Peronospora species) — favored by cool nights below 65°F and high humidity
Overhead irrigation that keeps foliage wet overnight

What to Do

1.Strip and trash affected leaves — don't compost them
2.Switch to drip or base watering if you've been overhead-irrigating; wet leaves at night are the main driver
3.Sylvetta tolerates disease pressure better than head lettuce, but once a plant looks more gray than green, pull it and direct-sow a fresh row

Irregular water-soaked or brown lesions on leaves, sometimes with a yellow halo, not fuzzy on the underside

Likely Causes

Bacterial leaf spot (Xanthomonas campestris or Pseudomonas cichorii) — spreads through rain splash and contaminated tools
Working in the bed when leaves are wet, or crowded planting that traps humidity

What to Do

1.Remove and discard spotted leaves at the first sign; bacterial infections spread fast in warm, humid conditions
2.Stay out of the bed when foliage is wet — that's the most direct way to move bacteria from plant to plant
3.Rotate Sylvetta out of any bed with a history of bacterial spot for at least one full season

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does Sylvetta arugula take to grow?▼

Sylvetta reaches full harvestable size in approximately 35 days from direct sowing. Individual leaves become edible around 25-30 days, allowing partial harvests before the plant matures fully. In cool-season growing periods, maturity is consistent; in warm weather, plants bolt faster, sometimes shortening the harvest window to 20-25 days.

Is Sylvetta good for beginners?▼

Absolutely. Sylvetta is one of the easiest greens to grow. It germinates reliably within 7-10 days, tolerates direct sowing, requires minimal fertilizing, and is naturally pest and disease resistant. The only challenge is managing its tendency to bolt in warm weather—but even this teaches valuable lessons about succession planting and season selection.

Can you grow Sylvetta arugula in containers?▼

Yes, Sylvetta thrives in containers. Use a 6-8 inch pot with quality potting soil, space seeds 3-4 inches apart, and thin to 6 inches apart. Containers dry faster than garden soil, so monitor moisture closely—keep soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Container growing actually extends your season by allowing you to move pots to afternoon shade during hot months, delaying bolting.

What does Sylvetta taste like compared to regular arugula?▼

Sylvetta is more intensely peppery and complex than cultivated salad arugula (Eruca sativa), with a distinctive spicy-nutty undertone. Many describe it as peppery with almost wasabi-like heat. The flavor is sophisticated and bold—prized by chefs but potentially overwhelming in mild salads. The edible yellow flowers add a complementary spicy-nutty garnish.

When should I plant Sylvetta for the best harvest?▼

Sow Sylvetta in early spring (after last frost) and again in late summer (8-10 weeks before first frost) for optimal results. Spring plantings often bolt by early summer in most climates, making fall/early winter gardens more rewarding with extended cool-season harvests. In mild climates, Sylvetta can produce through mild winters, making winter sowing ideal.

How do you prevent Sylvetta from bolting so quickly?▼

Bolting is linked to warm temperatures rather than plant age. To delay bolting, choose cool-season growing windows (spring before sustained heat, or fall/winter). Provide afternoon shade in hot climates. Keep soil consistently moist and cool—mulching helps regulate soil temperature. Water stress accelerates bolting, so never let soil dry completely. Ultimately, acceptance and succession planting every 2-3 weeks is more practical than prevention.