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Red Romaine

Lactuca sativa var. longifolia 'Red Romaine'

Red Romaine growing in a garden

A stunning twist on classic romaine lettuce with deep burgundy-red leaves and contrasting green hearts. This beautiful variety offers the same crisp texture and sweet flavor as traditional romaine while adding dramatic color to salads and garden beds. Perfect for gardeners who want both visual appeal and exceptional taste.

Harvest

70-80d

Days to harvest

πŸ“…

Sun

Full sun to partial shade

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Zones

2–11

USDA hardiness

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Height

6-12 inches

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Planting Timeline

Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Direct Sow
Harvest
Direct Sow
Harvest

Showing dates for Red Romaine in USDA Zone 7

All Zone 7 lettuce β†’

Zone Map

Click a state to update dates

CANADAUSAYTZ3NTZ3NUZ3BCZ8ABZ3SKZ3MBZ3ONZ5QCZ4NLZ4NBZ5NSZ6PEZ6AKZ3MEZ4WIZ4VTZ4NHZ5WAZ7IDZ5MTZ4NDZ4MNZ4MIZ5NYZ6MAZ6CTZ6RIZ6ORZ7NVZ7WYZ4SDZ4IAZ5INZ6OHZ6PAZ6NJZ7DEZ7CAZ9UTZ5COZ5NEZ5ILZ6WVZ6VAZ7MDZ7DCZ7AZZ9NMZ7KSZ6MOZ6KYZ6TNZ7NCZ7SCZ8OKZ7ARZ7MSZ8ALZ8GAZ8TXZ8LAZ9FLZ9HIZ10

Red Romaine Β· Zones 2–11

What grows well in Zone 7? β†’

Growing Details

Difficulty
Easy
Spacing8-10 inches
SoilWell-drained, fertile loam with organic matter
pH6.0-7.0
Water1 inch per week, consistent moisture
SeasonCool season
FlavorCrisp, sweet, and mild with slight mineral notes
ColorDeep burgundy-red outer leaves with green-white hearts
Size8-12 inches tall, 6-8 inches wide

Zone-by-Zone Planting Calendar

ZoneIndoor StartTransplantDirect SowHarvest
Zone 3β€”β€”May – JuneJuly – October
Zone 4β€”β€”April – JuneJuly – October
Zone 5β€”β€”April – MayJune – November
Zone 6β€”β€”April – MayJune – November
Zone 7β€”β€”March – MayJune – November
Zone 8β€”β€”March – AprilMay – December
Zone 9β€”β€”February – MarchApril – December
Zone 10β€”β€”January – MarchApril – December
Zone 1β€”β€”June – JulyAugust – September
Zone 2β€”β€”May – JulyAugust – September
Zone 11β€”β€”January – FebruaryMarch – December
Zone 12β€”β€”January – FebruaryMarch – December
Zone 13β€”β€”January – FebruaryMarch – December

Succession Planting

In zone 7, direct sow Red Romaine every 14 days starting around March 1, continuing through late April. At 70-80 days to harvest, your first sowing will be ready by mid-May before serious heat arrives. Stop sowing once daytime highs are consistently above 80Β°F β€” lettuce bolts fast above that threshold and turns bitter fast. Pick back up with a fall run starting around August 20, sowing every 14 days through mid-September; those plantings will carry you into November. Don't bother trying to push into summer β€” this variety won't forgive it.

Complete Growing Guide

Red Romaine thrives in cool-season conditions and performs best when direct seeded in spring or late summer for fall harvest, as transplants sometimes struggle with the transition. This burgundy variety is particularly sensitive to heat and will bolt rapidly once temperatures exceed 75Β°F, so timing your planting to mature before summer heat is crucial. Provide consistent moisture and rich, well-draining soil to support the deeper pigmentation and crisp texture this cultivar is known for. Red Romaine shows increased susceptibility to fungal leaf diseases in humid conditions, so ensure adequate air circulation and avoid overhead watering. Unlike paler romaines, the dark leaves can scald if exposed to intense afternoon sun in hot climatesβ€”afternoon shade during warm spells prevents this problem. Harvest outer leaves when the plant reaches 6 inches tall to encourage continued production and maintain tenderness.

Light: Full sun (6 or more hours of direct sunlight a day), Partial Shade (Direct sunlight only part of the day, 2-6 hours). Soil: High Organic Matter. Soil pH: Neutral (6.0-8.0). Drainage: Good Drainage, Moist. Height: 0 ft. 6 in. - 1 ft. 0 in.. Spread: 0 ft. 6 in. - 1 ft. 0 in.. Spacing: Less than 12 inches. Growth rate: Rapid. Maintenance: Medium. Propagation: Seed. Regions: Coastal, Mountains, Piedmont.

Harvesting

Red Romaine reaches peak harvest readiness when the outer leaves deepen to a rich burgundy-red while the inner heart maintains its pale green color, indicating optimal maturity at 70-80 days. The leaves should feel firm and crisp when gently squeezed, and the plant typically reaches 8-10 inches tall at full development. For continuous harvests, remove outer leaves individually as needed while leaving the center intact to encourage regrowth, or cut the entire head at soil level for a single harvest. Timing your harvest in early morning when leaves are fully hydrated ensures maximum crispness and mineral-forward flavor that defines this cultivar's superior taste.

Tiny seeds with a dandelion-like tuft (pappus) to aid in wind dispersal.

Color: Brown/Copper. Type: Achene. Length: < 1 inch. Width: < 1 inch.

Harvest time: Summer

Edibility: Leaves can be used raw or cooked in salads, sandwiches, and other dishes. Head lettuce can be stored for 2-3 weeks while leaf and butterhead store for 1-2 weeks.

Storage & Preservation

Store freshly harvested Red Romaine in the refrigerator immediately after harvest for best quality. Wrap whole heads loosely in damp paper towels, then place in perforated plastic bags in the crisper drawer at 32-35Β°F with high humidity. Properly stored heads maintain peak quality for 7-10 days.

For individual leaves, rinse gently in cold water, spin dry thoroughly, and store between paper towels in sealed containers. Use within 5-7 days for best texture and flavor.

While lettuce doesn't preserve well through traditional methods like canning or drying, you can extend its usefulness by making fermented lettuce wraps or adding leaves to fermented vegetable mixes. The sturdy leaves also freeze reasonably well for use in cooked dishes – blanch for 30 seconds, then freeze in portion-sized bags for up to 3 months. Frozen Red Romaine works well in soups, stir-fries, or braised dishes where texture is less critical than fresh applications.

History & Origin

Red Romaine lettuce emerged as a colored variant within the broader romaine (cos) lettuce lineage, which traces its origins to the Mediterranean region and has been cultivated for centuries. While comprehensive documentation of this specific red-leafed cultivar's breeding origins remains limited in published horticultural records, Red Romaine represents the result of selective breeding programs that began emphasizing pigmented romaine varieties during the late twentieth century. Seed companies and breeding programs recognized market demand for visually striking vegetables without sacrificing the crispness and mild flavor characteristic of traditional romaine. The variety likely descends from accidental mutations or deliberate crosses involving red-pigmented lettuce genetics, though the precise breeder and year of introduction are not definitively documented in widely accessible sources.

Origin: Mediterranean to Siberia

Advantages

  • +Striking deep burgundy leaves provide exceptional visual appeal in gardens and salads.
  • +Maintains classic romaine's crisp texture and sweet flavor with added mineral complexity.
  • +Relatively easy to grow, making it suitable for beginner gardeners.
  • +Moderate 70-80 day maturity allows multiple plantings within a growing season.

Considerations

  • -Susceptible to downy mildew, particularly in cool, humid growing conditions.
  • -Prone to tip burn when calcium uptake is inconsistent or water stressed.
  • -Vulnerable to common lettuce pests like aphids, slugs, and flea beetles.

Companion Plants

Radishes are the most useful neighbor here β€” direct-sow them every 10-12 inches around your romaine and they'll be pulled well before the lettuce heads up, doing double duty as a row marker and loosening the top few inches of soil for shallow lettuce roots. Chives and garlic both deter aphids through scent, which matters because a heavy aphid infestation can collapse a young romaine planting inside of two weeks on a wet spring. In zone 7 Georgia, Tagetes patula (French marigold) pulls its weight by confusing whiteflies and adding a visual break across the bed. Keep fennel and broccoli out β€” fennel is allelopathic to most vegetables and will stunt lettuce outright, while broccoli competes aggressively for the same shallow moisture and root space, sizing up faster and shading the lettuce before it can form a head.

Plant Together

+

Basil

Repels aphids and whiteflies while potentially improving lettuce flavor

+

Chives

Deters aphids and other soft-bodied insects that damage lettuce

+

Carrots

Deep roots don't compete with shallow lettuce roots, maximizes garden space

+

Radishes

Quick-growing companion that helps break up soil and deters flea beetles

+

Marigolds

Repels nematodes and aphids while attracting beneficial predatory insects

+

Spinach

Similar growing requirements and can be succession planted together

+

Garlic

Natural pest deterrent against aphids, slugs, and other lettuce pests

+

Nasturtiums

Acts as trap crop for aphids and cucumber beetles, drawing them away from lettuce

Keep Apart

-

Broccoli

Large leaves create too much shade and compete for nutrients with lettuce

-

Fennel

Releases allelopathic compounds that inhibit growth of lettuce and most vegetables

-

Sunflowers

Tall growth creates excessive shade and roots release growth-inhibiting chemicals

Nutrition Facts

Calories
17kcal
Protein
1.23g
Fiber
2.1g
Carbs
3.29g
Fat
0.3g
Vitamin C
4mg
Vitamin A
436mcg
Vitamin K
102mcg
Iron
0.97mg
Calcium
33mg
Potassium
247mg

Per 100g serving. % Daily Value based on 2,000 calorie diet. Source: USDA FoodData Central (FDC #169247)

Pests & Disease Resistance

Resistance

Good resistance to tip burn and bolting

Common Pests

Aphids, cutworms, slugs, flea beetles

Diseases

Downy mildew, lettuce drop, tip burn

Troubleshooting Red Romaine

What you'll see, why it happens, and what to do about it.

Seedlings collapse at soil level within the first 7-10 days after transplanting or germination, often with a fuzzy whitish mold visible on the soil surface nearby

Likely Causes

  • Damping off β€” a complex of soil-borne fungi (Pythium spp., Rhizoctonia solani) that thrive in cool, wet, poorly-drained conditions
  • Overwatering or compacted soil that holds moisture around the stem base

What to Do

  1. 1.Pull the dead seedlings and dig around the root zone β€” if the stem is pinched or rotted at soil level, that confirms damping off
  2. 2.Don't replant lettuce in that same bed this season; rotate out for at least one year and amend with compost to improve drainage
  3. 3.Start new seedlings in fresh, sterile seed-starting mix rather than garden soil, and water from below to keep the surface drier
Grayish-purple fuzzy coating on the undersides of older leaves, with pale yellow patches on the upper surface

Likely Causes

  • Downy mildew (Bremia lactucae) β€” favored by cool nights below 65Β°F and high humidity, common in spring and fall
  • Overcrowded planting that limits airflow between heads

What to Do

  1. 1.Remove and trash (not compost) affected leaves immediately
  2. 2.Space plants at least 8-10 inches apart and water at the base β€” overhead irrigation in the evening is a reliable way to make this worse
  3. 3.If it recurs season after season, look for Bremia lactucae-resistant romaine varieties for that bed
Brown, papery edges on the innermost leaves of a nearly mature head, with no sign of insects or mold

Likely Causes

  • Tip burn β€” a calcium distribution disorder triggered by rapid growth or inconsistent soil moisture, not a true deficiency
  • Irregular watering causing the plant to pull moisture unevenly and starve inner leaves of calcium

What to Do

  1. 1.Keep soil moisture consistent at about 1 inch per week β€” tip burn spikes after a dry spell followed by heavy rain or irrigation
  2. 2.Mulch the bed with 2-3 inches of straw to buffer soil moisture swings
  3. 3.Tip-burned leaves are still edible; strip them off and use the rest
Ragged holes chewed through leaves overnight, with slime trails visible on or around the plants in the morning

Likely Causes

  • Slugs β€” especially active during wet springs and in beds with heavy mulch or debris sitting right against the plants
  • Flea beetles will also chew small round holes, but they leave no slime trail and tend to hit younger, smaller plants harder

What to Do

  1. 1.Set out a shallow dish of beer at soil level near the plants β€” slugs will crawl in and drown; check and empty it every morning
  2. 2.Pull mulch back 2-3 inches from the base of each plant so slugs have less cover right at the crown
  3. 3.For flea beetles, a row cover of lightweight fabric (like Agribon-15) laid directly over the bed at planting gives good protection without trapping excess heat

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does Red Romaine take to grow from seed?β–Ό
Red Romaine takes 70-80 days from seed to mature head harvest, which is slightly longer than standard green romaine varieties. You can begin harvesting baby leaves at 35-45 days, and outer leaves continuously from 50-60 days onward while allowing the center to continue developing into a full head.
Can you grow Red Romaine in containers?β–Ό
Yes, Red Romaine grows excellently in containers. Use pots at least 8-10 inches deep and wide, with drainage holes. The upright growth habit makes it ideal for container gardening, and the visual appeal adds ornamental value. Ensure consistent moisture and provide afternoon shade in hot climates to prevent bolting.
Is Red Romaine good for beginners?β–Ό
Red Romaine is excellent for beginning gardeners due to its bolt resistance, disease tolerance, and forgiving nature. It's actually easier to grow than many traditional lettuces because of its improved genetics. The main requirement is consistent watering and cool-season timing, making it perfect for spring and fall gardens.
What does Red Romaine taste like compared to regular romaine?β–Ό
Red Romaine tastes remarkably similar to traditional green romaine – crisp, sweet, and mild with subtle mineral notes. The red pigmentation doesn't add bitterness like some red lettuce varieties. If anything, it's slightly sweeter than standard romaine, making it excellent for Caesar salads and fresh eating.
When should I plant Red Romaine for fall harvest?β–Ό
Plant Red Romaine for fall harvest 10-12 weeks before your average first frost date. In most regions, this means late July to early August planting. Fall-grown Red Romaine often develops deeper red coloration due to cooler temperatures and develops superior flavor compared to spring plantings.
Why are my Red Romaine leaves turning green instead of red?β–Ό
Red Romaine leaves lose their red pigmentation in excessive heat (above 80Β°F consistently) or insufficient light conditions. The anthocyanins responsible for red color are temperature and light sensitive. Provide morning sun with afternoon shade in hot climates, and ensure plants receive at least 4-6 hours of direct sunlight daily for best color development.

Growing Guides from Wind River Greens

Where to Buy Seeds

Sources & References

External authority sources used in compiling this guide.

See the Methodology page for how this data is sourced, what's AI-assisted, and known limitations.

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