HeirloomContainer OK

English Lavender

Lavandula angustifolia 'Munstead'

English Lavender growing in a garden

A compact, hardy lavender variety that's perfect for beginners and produces fragrant purple flower spikes beloved by bees and butterflies. This drought-tolerant perennial offers the classic lavender fragrance that's perfect for sachets, cooking, and aromatherapy while forming neat, silvery-green mounds in the garden. Munstead is one of the most cold-hardy lavender varieties, making it suitable for northern climates.

Harvest

90-120 from seed, flowers in second yeard

Days to harvest

πŸ“…

Sun

Full sun

β˜€οΈ

Zones

5–9

USDA hardiness

πŸ—ΊοΈ

Height

12-18 inches

πŸ“

Planting Timeline

Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Start Indoors
Transplant
Harvest
Start Indoors
Transplant
Harvest

Showing dates for English Lavender in USDA Zone 7

All Zone 7 herb β†’

Zone Map

Click a state to update dates

AKZ3MEZ4WIZ4VTZ4NHZ5WAZ7IDZ5MTZ4NDZ4MNZ4MIZ5NYZ6MAZ6CTZ6RIZ6ORZ7NVZ7WYZ4SDZ4IAZ5INZ6OHZ6PAZ6NJZ7DEZ7CAZ9UTZ5COZ5NEZ5ILZ6WVZ6VAZ7MDZ7DCZ7AZZ9NMZ7KSZ6MOZ6KYZ6TNZ7NCZ7SCZ8OKZ7ARZ7MSZ8ALZ8GAZ8TXZ8LAZ9FLZ9HIZ10

English Lavender Β· Zones 5–9

What grows well in Zone 7? β†’

Growing Details

Difficulty
Easy
Spacing18-24 inches
SoilWell-drained, sandy or gravelly soil, poor to moderately fertile
pH6.5-7.5
WaterLow water needs once established, drought tolerant
SeasonPerennial, cool season planting
FlavorFloral, sweet, and slightly camphor-like with classic lavender aroma
ColorPurple flower spikes with silvery-green foliage
Size4-6 inch flower spikes

Zone-by-Zone Planting Calendar

ZoneIndoor StartTransplantDirect SowHarvest
Zone 5January – FebruaryMay – Juneβ€”July – September
Zone 6January – FebruaryApril – Mayβ€”June – September
Zone 7December – JanuaryApril – Mayβ€”June – October
Zone 8December – JanuaryMarch – Aprilβ€”May – October
Zone 9November – DecemberFebruary – Marchβ€”May – November

Complete Growing Guide

English Lavender thrives in conditions that mimic its Mediterranean origins, making proper site preparation crucial for success. Choose your sunniest location with at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily. Before planting, test your soil's drainage by digging a hole 12 inches deep and filling it with water β€” if water remains after 24 hours, you'll need to amend with coarse sand, perlite, or small gravel to improve drainage. Lavender actually prefers poor to moderately fertile soil with a pH between 6.5-7.5, so avoid rich, heavy soils that retain moisture.

Starting from seed requires patience and proper technique. Begin 10-12 weeks before your last frost date by cold stratifying seeds in the refrigerator for 3-4 weeks wrapped in damp paper towels. Sow stratified seeds in a well-draining seed mix, barely covering them as they need light to germinate. Maintain soil temperature around 65-70Β°F and expect germination in 2-4 weeks. However, most gardeners find greater success starting with nursery plants or taking 4-inch softwood cuttings from established plants in late spring.

When transplanting, space plants 18-24 inches apart to ensure good air circulation. Dig holes slightly wider than the root ball but no deeper β€” lavender should sit at the same level it was growing previously. After planting, apply a 2-inch layer of gravel or coarse sand mulch around the base, keeping it away from the stem to prevent moisture retention and potential rot.

Fertilizing English Lavender requires a light touch. Apply a balanced, low-nitrogen fertilizer (like 5-10-5) once in early spring when new growth appears. Over-fertilizing promotes lush foliage at the expense of flower production and can make plants more susceptible to winter damage. In poor soils, a single spring application is sufficient for the entire growing season.

Prune annually after the last harvest but before new growth begins in spring. Remove about one-third of the previous year's growth, cutting just above where you see new shoots emerging. Never cut into old, woody stems as they rarely regenerate. In zones 5-6, provide winter protection with evergreen boughs or burlap screens to shield plants from harsh winds and temperature fluctuations.

Common mistakes include overwatering (lavender prefers drought conditions once established), planting in clay soil without amendments, and harvesting too late in the season which can reduce cold hardiness. For maximum flower production, avoid deadheading the first flush of blooms if you want a second flowering in late summer.

Harvesting

Harvest English Lavender flowers when about half the buds on each spike have opened, typically in mid-morning after the dew has dried but before the day's heat intensifies. Look for flower spikes where the lower flowers are just beginning to show color while the upper buds remain tight β€” this timing ensures maximum fragrance retention and prevents flowers from shattering during drying. The stems should feel firm and the color should be vibrant purple-blue.

Cut stems 4-6 inches long, including some foliage, using sharp, clean pruning shears. Make cuts just above where you see new growth or leaf nodes to encourage bushier growth and potentially a second flush of flowers. Harvest in small bunches to prevent crushing the delicate flowers. For the most potent essential oils, harvest on a dry, sunny day when the plant's moisture content is lowest. Always leave at least one-third of the plant's growth intact to maintain plant health and ensure vigorous growth the following season.

Storage & Preservation

Fresh English Lavender stems can be stored in a cool, dry place for 3-5 days before processing. For immediate use, place cut stems in water like fresh flowers, though this reduces their drying potential. The most popular preservation method is air-drying: bundle 8-10 stems together with rubber bands and hang upside down in a dark, well-ventilated area for 2-3 weeks until stems snap cleanly.

Once dried, strip flowers from stems by running your fingers against the grain. Store dried buds in airtight glass containers away from light, where they'll maintain potency for up to two years. For culinary use, freeze fresh flowers in ice cube trays with water for cocktails, or infuse fresh buds in honey or sugar for baking. Properly dried lavender can also be ground into powder for spice blends or sewn into sachets for natural pest deterrence in closets and drawers.

History & Origin

English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is actually native to the Mediterranean region, despite its common name. The 'English' designation comes from its exceptional performance in English gardens and its central role in British perfumery and aromatherapy traditions dating back to Roman times. The species was first formally classified by Philip Miller in 1768, though it had been cultivated for over a thousand years previously.

The variety became particularly associated with England during the Victorian era when lavender farms flourished in Surrey, Kent, and Hertfordshire. Commercial cultivation peaked in the early 1900s when English lavender oil was considered among the world's finest for perfumery. The famous Mitcham district in Surrey was so renowned for its lavender that 'Mitcham Lavender' became synonymous with the highest quality.

As an heirloom variety, English Lavender has remained genetically stable through centuries of cultivation, passed down through generations of gardeners who selected plants for their hardiness, fragrance, and compact growth habit. Unlike modern hybrid lavenders bred for specific commercial traits, this true species maintains the full complexity of compounds that create lavender's distinctive therapeutic and culinary properties.

Advantages

  • +Most cold-hardy lavender variety, surviving temperatures down to -20Β°F with protection
  • +Compact 12-18 inch mature size perfect for small gardens and containers
  • +Highest essential oil content among lavender varieties, making it ideal for aromatherapy
  • +Self-sows readily in ideal conditions, providing new plants naturally
  • +Deer and rabbit resistant due to strong fragrance and essential oils
  • +Drought tolerance once established makes it perfect for xeriscaping
  • +Long bloom period from mid-summer through early fall with potential second flush

Considerations

  • -Slow to establish from seed, often taking 2 years to produce substantial flowers
  • -Intolerant of humid conditions and poorly drained soils, prone to root rot
  • -Requires annual pruning to maintain shape and prevent woody, unproductive centers
  • -Can be short-lived in zones outside its preferred 5-8 range
  • -Seeds require cold stratification and have variable germination rates

Companion Plants

Plant Together

+

Rosemary

Similar growing conditions, both repel pests and attract beneficial insects

+

Thyme

Compatible Mediterranean herbs that deter cabbage worms and enhance each other's fragrance

+

Sage

Shared preference for well-drained soil and mutual pest deterrent properties

+

Oregano

Similar water and sunlight needs, both attract pollinators and repel ants

+

Cabbage

Lavender repels cabbage moths, flea beetles, and other brassica pests

+

Roses

Lavender deters aphids and ants while attracting beneficial insects to protect roses

+

Tomatoes

Lavender may repel whiteflies and improve tomato flavor while deterring mice

+

Marigolds

Both plants repel harmful insects and attract beneficial pollinators

Keep Apart

-

Mint

Aggressive spreader that can overwhelm lavender and prefers more moisture

-

Impatiens

Requires consistent moisture and shade, opposite of lavender's dry, sunny preferences

-

Hostas

Needs moist, shaded conditions that conflict with lavender's Mediterranean requirements

Pests & Disease Resistance

Resistance

Generally disease resistant when grown in proper conditions with good drainage

Common Pests

Spittlebug, aphids, whiteflies (rarely problematic)

Diseases

Root rot in poorly drained soils, fungal issues in humid conditions

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does English lavender take to grow from seed?β–Ό
English lavender takes 90-120 days from seed to small transplant, but won't produce significant flowers until the second year. Seeds need 3-4 weeks of cold stratification and germinate slowly. Most gardeners start with nursery plants or cuttings for faster results, as established plants will flower the same season when planted in spring.
Can you grow English lavender in pots?β–Ό
Yes, English lavender thrives in containers with excellent drainage. Use a pot at least 12 inches wide with drainage holes, and fill with well-draining potting mix amended with sand or perlite. Terra cotta pots work best as they allow soil to dry between waterings. In cold climates, move containers to protected areas or wrap them for winter protection.
When should I plant English lavender?β–Ό
Plant English lavender in spring after the last frost date when soil has warmed to at least 60Β°F. This gives plants a full growing season to establish before winter. In mild climates (zones 7-8), fall planting 6-8 weeks before first frost is also successful, allowing roots to establish during cool, moist weather.
Is English lavender good for beginners?β–Ό
English lavender is excellent for beginners once you understand its basic needs: full sun, well-draining soil, and minimal water. The key is avoiding overwatering and heavy soils. Start with nursery plants rather than seeds for quicker success, and remember that less care (especially less water and fertilizer) often produces better results with lavender.
What does English lavender taste like?β–Ό
English lavender has a sweet, floral flavor with subtle camphor notes and a slightly bitter finish. It's the mildest and most culinary-friendly of all lavender varieties. The taste is intensely aromatic and a little goes a long way - use sparingly in baking, teas, and seasoning blends as too much can make dishes taste soapy or medicinal.
English lavender vs French lavender - what's the difference?β–Ό
English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is more cold-hardy (zones 5-8), has better culinary quality, and produces more essential oils. French lavender (Lavandula stoechas) has distinctive pineapple-shaped flowers with colorful bracts but is less cold-tolerant (zones 8-10), has a more camphor-like scent, and isn't recommended for cooking. English lavender is better for northern climates and culinary use.

More Herbs