Red Noodle Long Bean
Vigna unguiculata subsp. sesquipedalis 'Red Noodle'
An eye-catching Asian variety that produces incredibly long, burgundy-red pods that can reach up to 24 inches in length while maintaining tenderness and flavor. This vigorous climbing bean is not only productive but adds dramatic color and height to the garden with its striking appearance. Popular in Asian cuisine, these beans are tender when young and maintain their beautiful color when lightly cooked.
Harvest
60-70d
Days to harvest
Sun
Full sun
Zones
11–11
USDA hardiness
Height
5-10 feet
Planting Timeline
Showing dates for Red Noodle Long Bean in USDA Zone 7
All Zone 7 bean →Zone Map
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Red Noodle Long Bean · Zones 11–11
Growing Details
Zone-by-Zone Planting Calendar
| Zone | Indoor Start | Transplant | Direct Sow | Harvest |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Zone 1 | — | — | July – August | October – August |
| Zone 2 | — | — | June – August | September – September |
| Zone 11 | — | — | January – March | April – June |
| Zone 12 | — | — | January – March | April – June |
| Zone 13 | — | — | January – March | April – June |
| Zone 3 | — | — | June – July | September – October |
| Zone 4 | — | — | June – July | August – October |
| Zone 5 | — | — | May – June | August – October |
| Zone 6 | — | — | May – June | August – September |
| Zone 7 | — | — | April – June | July – September |
| Zone 8 | — | — | April – May | July – August |
| Zone 9 | — | — | March – April | June – July |
| Zone 10 | — | — | February – April | May – July |
Succession Planting
Direct sow every 14-18 days from late April through early June in zone 7, stopping once daytime highs are consistently above 90°F — germination stalls in hot soil and pods on established plants turn fibrous fast at that heat. Each round only needs 4-6 plants to keep one household supplied for a week or two at a stretch.
A late sowing around August 15 can squeeze in a fall run, but nights need to stay above 60°F long enough for the vines to size up before frost — the window is tight enough that it's usually not worth the bed space unless you have a warm, sheltered spot. Soil temperature at planting should be at least 65°F; Red Noodle germinates in 6-10 days at that range and rots in the ground if it's any cooler.
Complete Growing Guide
This vigorous indeterminate climber demands sturdy vertical support and warm soil—wait until nighttime temperatures consistently exceed 60°F, as seeds will rot in cool conditions. Red Noodle Long Beans thrive in full sun with rich, well-draining soil amended with compost, preferring consistent moisture without waterlogging. Unlike shorter bean varieties, they require 5–10 feet of trellis or pole support to maximize the dramatic 24-inch pods; without adequate structure, vines sprawl and pods develop thick, stringy texture. Watch for spider mites in hot, dry conditions and occasional powdery mildew in humid climates—both stress the plant and reduce pod quality. A critical timing note: harvest pods when young and tender (around 6–8 inches) before they mature and toughen; frequent picking encourages continuous flowering through the season. For best results, succession-plant every two weeks through mid-summer to ensure a continuous harvest until frost.
Light: Full sun (6 or more hours of direct sunlight a day). Soil: Clay, High Organic Matter, Loam (Silt), Sand. Soil pH: Acid (<6.0), Neutral (6.0-8.0). Drainage: Good Drainage, Moist, Occasionally Dry. Height: 5 ft. 0 in. - 10 ft. 0 in.. Spread: 1 ft. 0 in. - 3 ft. 0 in.. Spacing: 12 inches-3 feet. Growth rate: Rapid. Maintenance: Low. Regions: Coastal, Mountains, Piedmont.
Harvesting
Harvest Red Noodle Long Beans when pods reach 8 to 12 inches long while still displaying their vibrant burgundy-red color and snapping readily when bent—these visual and tactile cues indicate peak tenderness before the beans inside mature. Unlike single-harvest varieties, Red Noodles benefit from continuous picking every two to three days, which encourages the plant to produce more flowers and extends your yield throughout the season. Pick in the early morning when pods are fully hydrated for the crispest texture, and prioritize removing pods before they exceed 15 inches, as older, oversized pods become stringy and lose their prized tenderness and sweet flavor.
Fruits are 10 to 18 inches long. Various cultivars are available: some with green fruits and others with purple or burgundy fruits.
Color: Green, Purple/Lavender, Red/Burgundy. Type: Legume. Length: > 3 inches. Width: < 1 inch.
Garden value: Edible
Harvest time: Summer
Edibility: Fruits are edible when immature. The seeds can be harvested for dried beans.
Storage & Preservation
Fresh Red Noodle Long Beans maintain peak quality for 3-5 days when stored unwashed in perforated plastic bags in your refrigerator's crisper drawer. Their optimal storage temperature is 40-45°F with high humidity—avoid storing below 40°F as this can cause chilling injury and discoloration of the beautiful burgundy pods.
For longer preservation, blanch whole beans in boiling water for 2-3 minutes, then immediately plunge into ice water before freezing in airtight containers. They'll maintain quality for 8-10 months frozen. These beans also pickle beautifully—their color intensifies in vinegar brine, creating stunning deep red pickled vegetables perfect for Asian dishes.
Dehydrating works well for mature beans: slice into 2-inch segments and dry at 125°F until completely brittle. Store dried beans in airtight containers for up to one year. The mature seeds can also be saved and dried for use as shell beans with a nutty, rich flavor that's excellent in soups and stews.
History & Origin
The Red Noodle Long Bean belongs to the Vigna unguiculata subsp. sesquipedalis complex, long beans domesticated in Africa but extensively cultivated and refined throughout Asia, particularly in Southeast Asia and China where selection for length and pod quality accelerated dramatically. While specific breeder attribution and introduction year remain undocumented in readily available sources, the variety likely emerged from informal farmer selection within Asian seed-saving traditions rather than formal breeding programs. The burgundy-red coloration and extended pod length represent refinements of characteristics present in the broader sesquipedalis subspecies, suggesting this particular cultivar developed through generations of purposeful cultivation by Asian gardeners and farmers prioritizing visual appeal alongside culinary performance.
Origin: Tropical Africa
Advantages
- +Produces exceptionally long, tender pods reaching up to 24 inches
- +Striking burgundy-red color adds dramatic visual interest to garden
- +Vigorous climbing habit maximizes vertical space and garden productivity
- +Mild, sweet flavor with crisp texture appeals to diverse palates
- +Moderate 60-70 day maturity allows multiple harvests in season
Considerations
- -Vulnerable to aphids, spider mites, and bean beetles requiring monitoring
- -Susceptible to powdery mildew, bacterial blight, and mosaic virus infections
- -Requires sturdy trellising to support vigorous vines and long pods
Companion Plants
Marigolds (French dwarf types, not giant Africans) planted at the base of your trellis deter aphids and bean beetles through scent — set them 6-8 inches out so the root competition stays minimal. Summer savory has a specific long-standing reputation as a bean beetle deterrent and is compact enough to tuck in without crowding the row. In our zone 7 Georgia garden, sweet corn and Red Noodle make a practical pair: both need warm soil above 65°F and full sun from late April onward, and the beans will fix nitrogen that feeds next year's corn rotation. Keep onions and fennel clear of the bed — onions suppress legume establishment through root exudates, and fennel is broadly allelopathic; give it its own isolated corner at least 3 feet from anything you actually want to produce.
Plant Together
Marigold
Repels bean beetles, aphids, and nematodes while attracting beneficial insects
Basil
Deters aphids, spider mites, and thrips while potentially improving bean flavor
Nasturtium
Acts as trap crop for aphids and cucumber beetles, repels bean beetles
Cucumber
Benefits from bean's nitrogen fixation, beans provide natural trellis support
Radish
Breaks up soil for bean roots, deters bean beetles, quick harvest before beans mature
Catnip
Repels aphids, ants, and flea beetles that commonly attack beans
Sweet Corn
Provides natural climbing support, benefits from nitrogen fixed by bean roots
Summer Savory
Improves bean growth and flavor while repelling bean beetles and aphids
Keep Apart
Onion
Inhibits bean growth and nitrogen fixation through root secretions
Sunflower
Releases allelopathic compounds that stunt bean growth and development
Fennel
Produces allelopathic chemicals that inhibit bean germination and growth
Nutrition Facts
Per 100g serving. % Daily Value based on 2,000 calorie diet. Source: USDA FoodData Central (FDC #2346400)
Pests & Disease Resistance
Resistance
Good heat and humidity tolerance, resistant to many bean diseases
Common Pests
Aphids, spider mites, bean beetles
Diseases
Powdery mildew, bacterial blight, mosaic virus
Troubleshooting Red Noodle Long Bean
What you'll see, why it happens, and what to do about it.
Leaves with irregular chunks missing, some browning at edges, starting around week 5-7
Likely Causes
- Mexican bean beetle (Epilachna varivestis) — larvae skeletonize leaf undersides before moving to edges
- Bean leaf beetle (Cerotoma trifurcata) — punches cleaner round holes, often in clusters
What to Do
- 1.Flip leaves and hand-pick yellow egg clusters and soft yellow larvae; drop them in soapy water
- 2.Apply spinosad or pyrethrin spray in the early morning when beneficials aren't active
- 3.Per the UGA Pest Management Handbook, scout every 2-3 days during peak summer heat — early discovery makes early control possible
White powdery coating on upper leaf surfaces, usually mid-season when nights cool slightly
Likely Causes
- Powdery mildew (Erysiphe polygoni) — spreads on dry air currents, not rain splash
- Crowded vines piled on the trellis without enough airflow
What to Do
- 1.Thin vines so air can move through; Red Noodle reaches 5-10 feet and will stack up on itself if untended
- 2.Spray affected foliage with a potassium bicarbonate solution or diluted neem oil (2 tbsp per gallon) on a 7-day schedule
- 3.Switch to drip or soaker irrigation — wet foliage at night is a reliable way to make things worse
Mottled yellow-green mosaic pattern on young leaves, new growth distorted or puckered
Likely Causes
- Bean common mosaic virus (BCMV) — transmitted by aphids, no cure once a plant is infected
- Aphid colonies (Aphis fabae or Acyrthosiphon pisum) acting as the vector
What to Do
- 1.Pull and bag infected plants immediately — trash them, don't compost
- 2.Knock aphid colonies off healthy plants with a firm water spray; follow with insecticidal soap every 5 days
- 3.NC State Extension's organic gardening guidance recommends rotating legumes out of the same plot — planting beans in one spot for 5 consecutive years, as in their IPM case study, builds up both aphid populations and soilborne inoculum
Water-soaked spots on leaves and pods turning brown with yellow halos, sometimes with a sticky bacterial ooze
Likely Causes
- Bacterial blight (Pseudomonas syringae pv. phaseolicola or Xanthomonas axonopodis pv. phaseoli) — spreads fast in warm, wet conditions
- Handling plants while foliage is wet, which transfers bacteria from plant to plant on hands and tools
What to Do
- 1.Stay out of the bed until foliage has dried after rain or irrigation
- 2.Remove and trash affected leaves and pods; wipe pruner blades with 70% isopropyl between each cut
- 3.NC State Extension's vegetable gardening guidance notes 1 inch of water per week at soil level is sufficient for pole beans — a soaker hose keeps the canopy dry and cuts infection spread considerably
Frequently Asked Questions
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Growing Guides from Wind River Greens
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Sources & References
External authority sources used in compiling this guide.
See the Methodology page for how this data is sourced, what's AI-assisted, and known limitations.