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Showing dates for Scarlet Runner Bean in USDA Zone 7
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Scarlet Runner Bean · Zones 3–10
Growing Details
Zone-by-Zone Planting Calendar
| Zone | Indoor Start | Transplant | Direct Sow | Harvest |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Zone 3 | — | — | May – June | July – September |
| Zone 4 | — | — | May – June | July – September |
| Zone 5 | — | — | May – July | July – October |
| Zone 6 | — | — | May – July | July – October |
| Zone 7 | — | — | April – July | June – October |
| Zone 8 | — | — | April – August | June – November |
| Zone 9 | — | — | March – September | May – November |
| Zone 10 | — | — | February – September | April – December |
Complete Growing Guide
Choose a sunny location with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight, though scarlet runners will tolerate partial shade better than most beans. Install sturdy 8-10 foot support structures before planting—these vigorous climbers can reach 12 feet and become heavy when loaded with pods. Teepees made from thick poles or strong trellises work best.
Prepare your soil by working in 2-3 inches of compost or well-rotted manure. Scarlet runners prefer slightly acidic to neutral soil (pH 6.0-7.0) and excellent drainage. Unlike other beans, they actually benefit from moderate nitrogen levels since they're such vigorous growers.
Direct sow seeds after soil temperature reaches 60°F consistently—typically 2-3 weeks after your last frost date. Plant seeds 1-2 inches deep and 6 inches apart at the base of your support structure. Soak seeds overnight before planting to improve germination in cooler conditions. You can start seeds indoors 3-4 weeks early in zones 6 and cooler, but transplant carefully as beans dislike root disturbance.
Water deeply but infrequently once established, aiming for 1 inch per week. Mulch around plants to retain moisture and suppress weeds, but keep mulch away from stems. Begin training vines onto supports when they're 6 inches tall—they climb counterclockwise naturally.
Fertize lightly with balanced fertilizer at planting, then switch to low-nitrogen, higher phosphorus fertilizer once flowering begins to encourage pod production. Over-fertilizing with nitrogen will give you beautiful foliage but fewer pods.
Avoid planting in heavy clay or areas with standing water, as scarlet runners are prone to root rot. Don't plant too early—cold soil leads to poor germination and fungal issues.
Harvesting
For fresh eating, harvest pods when they're 6-8 inches long and about pencil-thick, before the seeds inside begin to bulge noticeably. The pods should snap crisply when bent and feel tender throughout. Pick every 2-3 days during peak season to keep plants producing—morning harvest after dew dries yields the crispest pods.
Test readiness by gently pressing the pod; you should barely feel the developing seeds inside. Once seeds become prominent bumps, the pods turn stringy and tough, though they're still edible if steamed longer.
For dry bean harvest, leave pods on the vine until they turn brown and papery, usually 90-120 days from planting. The pods will rattle when shaken. If frost threatens, pull entire plants and hang in a dry, ventilated area to finish drying.
Always use both hands when harvesting—hold the vine with one hand while picking with the other to avoid damaging the climbing stems.
Storage & Preservation
Fresh pods keep best in the refrigerator crisper drawer for 5-7 days in a perforated plastic bag. Don't wash until ready to use, as moisture encourages decay.
For longer storage, blanch young pods in boiling water for 2-3 minutes, then freeze in airtight containers for up to 8 months. Mature green pods can be pickled like dilly beans.
Dried beans should be thoroughly cured until they contain less than 15% moisture—properly dried beans will shatter when hit with a hammer. Store in airtight containers in a cool, dark place for up to 2 years. Freeze dried beans for 48 hours before storage to eliminate any bean weevils.
History & Origin
Native to the mountainous regions of Central America, particularly Mexico and Guatemala, scarlet runner beans (Phaseolus coccineus) have been cultivated for over 2,000 years. Unlike common beans, they're actually perennial in frost-free climates, growing from thick, fleshy roots that can be harvested and eaten like sweet potatoes.
Spanish conquistadors brought scarlet runners to Europe in the 16th century, where they quickly became popular in England's cottage gardens—both for their ornamental red flowers and substantial food value. The variety thrived in Britain's cool, moist summers better than heat-loving common beans.
In traditional Mexican cuisine, both the roots and beans were dietary staples. The Aztecs called them 'ayocotes' and considered them sacred. European settlers initially grew them primarily as ornamental flowering vines before discovering their culinary value. Today, they remain especially popular in British gardens and are experiencing renewed interest among American gardeners seeking dual-purpose ornamental edibles.
Advantages
- +Spectacular scarlet flowers provide ornamental value while attracting hummingbirds and beneficial pollinators
- +Exceptional tolerance for cool, wet conditions compared to other bean varieties
- +Dual harvest capability—young pods like green beans, mature seeds like limas
- +Edible flowers add color and mild bean flavor to salads and garnishes
- +Perennial roots in zones 8-10 return each year without replanting
- +Heavy yields from vigorous vines that can produce until hard frost
- +Natural nitrogen fixation improves soil for following crops
Considerations
- -Requires substantial 8-10 foot support structures due to vigorous climbing habit
- -Poor heat tolerance—struggles in temperatures consistently above 85°F
- -Slow to start producing compared to bush beans—longer season commitment
- -Large seeds and aggressive growth can overwhelm smaller garden spaces
- -Pods become tough and stringy quickly if not harvested regularly
Companion Plants
Plant Together
Corn
Provides natural support structure for climbing beans while beans fix nitrogen for corn
Squash
Part of Three Sisters planting, large leaves shade soil and suppress weeds
Marigolds
Repel Mexican bean beetles and other harmful insects
Nasturtiums
Act as trap crop for aphids and cucumber beetles, keep pests away from beans
Carrots
Beans improve soil nitrogen while carrots break up soil, benefiting bean root development
Radishes
Help break up compacted soil and may deter bean root fly
Lettuce
Benefits from nitrogen fixed by beans, provides living mulch
Summer Savory
Repels bean beetles and may improve bean flavor and growth
Keep Apart
Onions
Can inhibit bean growth and nitrogen fixation through root compounds
Sunflowers
Allelopathic compounds can stunt bean growth and compete for nutrients
Fennel
Produces allelopathic compounds that inhibit growth of beans and most garden plants
Pests & Disease Resistance
Resistance
Generally disease resistant, some tolerance to cool, wet conditions
Common Pests
Mexican bean beetle, aphids, spider mites
Diseases
Bacterial blight, anthracnose, root rot in poorly drained soils