Heirloom

Northeaster

Phaseolus vulgaris

a pile of green beans sitting next to each other

This early maturing Roma-type pole bean has a deliciously rich, sweet flavor. The 8" long, 1" wide, flat green pods are stringless and stay tender for long periods. Extra vigorous in the seedling stage with strong vine growth. white seeds. Pole bean; requires trellising.

Harvest

56d

Days to harvest

📅

Sun

Full sun

☀️

Zones

2–11

USDA hardiness

🗺️

Height

6-8 feet

📏

Planting Timeline

Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Direct Sow
Harvest
Direct Sow
Harvest

Showing dates for Northeaster in USDA Zone 7

All Zone 7 bean

Zone Map

Click a state to update dates

CANADAUSAYTZ3NTZ3NUZ3BCZ8ABZ3SKZ3MBZ3ONZ5QCZ4NLZ4NBZ5NSZ6PEZ6AKZ3MEZ4WIZ4VTZ4NHZ5WAZ7IDZ5MTZ4NDZ4MNZ4MIZ5NYZ6MAZ6CTZ6RIZ6ORZ7NVZ7WYZ4SDZ4IAZ5INZ6OHZ6PAZ6NJZ7DEZ7CAZ9UTZ5COZ5NEZ5ILZ6WVZ6VAZ7MDZ7DCZ7AZZ9NMZ7KSZ6MOZ6KYZ6TNZ7NCZ7SCZ8OKZ7ARZ7MSZ8ALZ8GAZ8TXZ8LAZ9FLZ9HIZ10

Northeaster · Zones 211

What grows well in Zone 7?

Growing Details

Difficulty
Easy
Spacing4-6 inches along trellis
SoilWell-draining loam enriched with compost; slightly acidic to neutral preferred
WaterRegular; 1-1.5 inches per week with consistent moisture during flowering and pod development
SeasonWarm season annual
FlavorRich, complex sweet flavor with subtle buttery and nutty undertones; tender and crisp when properly harvested
ColorBright green
Size8"

Zone-by-Zone Planting Calendar

ZoneIndoor StartTransplantDirect SowHarvest
Zone 3June – JulyAugust – October
Zone 4June – JulyAugust – October
Zone 5May – JuneAugust – September
Zone 6May – JuneJuly – September
Zone 7April – JuneJuly – August
Zone 8April – MayJune – August
Zone 9March – AprilMay – July
Zone 10February – AprilMay – June
Zone 1July – AugustSeptember – August
Zone 2June – AugustSeptember – September
Zone 11January – MarchApril – May
Zone 12January – MarchApril – May
Zone 13January – MarchApril – May

Succession Planting

Direct sow Northeaster every 14–18 days from your last frost date through mid-June — in zone 7, that's roughly late March or early April through June 15. Each sowing runs about 56 days to harvest, so a mid-June planting should finish before a mid-October frost. Stop when daytime highs are consistently above 90°F; bean blossoms drop without setting pods at that temperature, and you'll burn through seed for nothing.

Don't count on a late-summer sowing to catch a fall harvest unless your first frost falls reliably after October 15. Beans need 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week through flowering and pod fill, and August drought stress will gut your yield before the pods size up. Three successive sowings is a realistic ceiling for most seasons.

Complete Growing Guide

Direct sowing Northeaster beans into the garden after your last spring frost is the preferred method, though you may start seeds indoors 3-4 weeks before your frost date if you want an earlier harvest. Because this variety shows exceptional vigor in the seedling stage, indoor starts rarely provide significant advantage over direct sowing. Plant seeds directly into warm soil—ideally 60°F or warmer—about one inch deep, spacing them 4-6 inches apart along your trellis or support structure. Succession planting every two weeks until mid-summer will extend your harvest through fall, taking advantage of Northeaster's relatively quick 56-day maturity.

Prepare your soil with plenty of organic matter before planting, aiming for well-draining beds rich in compost. While pole beans are relatively undemanding, Northeaster's vigorous growth benefits from soil with good structure. Space rows 18-24 inches apart to allow adequate air circulation around the vines, which helps prevent moisture-related issues. This variety requires sturdy trellising—think 6-foot stakes, cages, or string systems—and you should install supports before or immediately after planting to avoid damaging roots later.

Water consistently throughout the growing season, providing about one inch per week through rainfall or irrigation. Keep moisture even but not waterlogged; Northeaster's dense foliage can trap humidity, so soaking the base in early morning is preferable to overhead watering. Feed plants lightly when they begin flowering with a balanced fertilizer, though excessive nitrogen will push foliage at the expense of pod production. Since beans fix their own nitrogen, heavy feeding isn't necessary.

Watch closely for bean beetles, which are particularly attracted to pole beans and can devastate foliage quickly. Scout plants regularly and hand-pick beetles and orange egg clusters from leaf undersides; early intervention prevents severe infestations. Rust and powdery mildew can occasionally trouble Northeaster, especially in humid conditions, so maintain good air circulation around the vines and avoid wetting leaves during irrigation. Remove any yellowing or spotted leaves promptly.

The critical technique gardeners often overlook with Northeaster is proper trellising training. This variety's extra vigor means vines will grow vigorously but can become tangled and difficult to harvest if not guided regularly onto supports during the first few weeks. Gently train new growth onto your structure every few days in early growth stages, and the plants will climb cooperatively. Without this early attention, you'll spend frustrating hours untangling vines at harvest time.

Pick pods when they reach 8 inches long and are still tender; Northeaster's stringless pods remain harvestable over an extended period. Regular picking encourages continued production, so check plants every 2-3 days once fruiting begins. Proper harvesting technique—supporting the vine while picking—prevents accidental vine damage that could reduce yields.

Harvesting

Northeaster reaches harvest at 56 days from sowing per Johnny's Selected Seeds. Expect 8" at peak. As an annual, harvest continues until frost ends the season.

The boat-shaped seed pods are bilaterally symmetrical and can be green, yellow, white, or purple at maturity. There is a wide variety of color and shape choices among cultivars.

Color: Gold/Yellow, Green, Purple/Lavender, White. Type: Legume. Length: > 3 inches. Width: < 1 inch.

Garden value: Edible, Good Dried

Harvest time: Fall, Summer

Storage & Preservation

Store freshly harvested Northeaster pods in perforated plastic bags in the refrigerator at 40–45°F with 90–95% humidity; they'll keep for 5–7 days. For longer storage, freezing is ideal: blanch whole or cut pods for 3 minutes, cool immediately in ice water, drain well, and freeze in airtight containers or bags for up to 10 months. Drying also works well—spread pods on screens in a warm, airy space until brittle, then store in sealed jars. Canning is possible but requires pressure canning for safety. If saving seed, allow pods to mature fully on the plant, then dry completely indoors before shelling and storing in cool, dry conditions. Northeaster's relatively thin pods make them excellent candidates for freezing whole, as they thaw with minimal texture loss.

History & Origin

Northeaster is open-pollinated, meaning seed saved from healthy plants will produce true-to-type offspring. Listed in the Johnny's Selected Seeds catalog.

Origin: Tropical America

Advantages

  • +Early 56-day maturity provides harvest before late-season pest pressure
  • +Stringless flat pods stay tender longer than typical pole varieties
  • +Rich, sweet flavor makes Northeaster superior for fresh eating
  • +Vigorous seedling growth ensures reliable establishment in gardens

Considerations

  • -Requires sturdy trellising structure; pole beans need consistent support system
  • -Long 8-inch pods may be challenging to cook uniformly
  • -Vigorous vines demand regular maintenance and careful pruning management

Companion Plants

Marigolds — French marigolds (Tagetes patula) in particular — deter aphids and bean beetles through scent; plant a cluster every 2–3 feet along the trellis base rather than scattering them randomly. Corn, beans, and squash work together as a functional system: Northeaster's roots fix atmospheric nitrogen via Rhizobium bacteria, feeding the corn without any added fertilizer, while squash leaves cover the soil at 12–18 inches wide and shut out weeds. Summer savory has a specific reputation for repelling bean beetles and takes up almost no space — tuck a few plants at the trellis ends. Keep onions and garlic at least 3 feet away; their root exudates suppress the same Rhizobium bacteria that give beans their nitrogen-fixing value.

Plant Together

+

Marigolds

Repel bean beetles, aphids, and nematodes while attracting beneficial insects

+

Carrots

Help break up soil for bean roots and don't compete for nutrients

+

Corn

Provides natural trellis support for climbing beans in three sisters planting

+

Squash

Ground cover suppresses weeds and retains moisture, completes three sisters guild

+

Nasturtiums

Act as trap crop for aphids and cucumber beetles, attract predatory insects

+

Summer Savory

Repels bean beetles and aphids, may improve bean flavor when planted nearby

+

Radishes

Break up compacted soil and mature quickly without competing for space

+

Catnip

Deters bean beetles, aphids, and ants through strong aromatic compounds

Keep Apart

-

Onions

Can inhibit bean growth and nitrogen fixation through allelopathic compounds

-

Garlic

May stunt bean growth and interfere with beneficial rhizobia bacteria

-

Sunflowers

Compete heavily for nutrients and water, can shade out bean plants

Nutrition Facts

Protein
1.97g
Fiber
3.01g
Carbs
7.41g
Fat
0.275g
Vitamin K
43.9mcg
Iron
0.652mg
Calcium
40mg
Potassium
290mg

Per 100g serving. % Daily Value based on 2,000 calorie diet. Source: USDA FoodData Central (FDC #2346400)

Pests & Disease Resistance

Common Pests

Bean beetles, spider mites, aphids, thrips

Diseases

Powdery mildew, rust, bean mosaic virus, anthracnose

Troubleshooting Northeaster

What you'll see, why it happens, and what to do about it.

Leaf edges and chunks missing, leaves partially skeletonized — noticed around week 5–7

Likely Causes

  • Mexican bean beetle (Epilachna varivestis) — adults and larvae both feed on leaf tissue from the underside
  • Bean leaf beetle (Cerotoma trifurcata) — chews irregular holes, especially on younger leaves

What to Do

  1. 1.Flip leaves and hand-pick egg clusters (yellow, upright ovals in tight groups) and larvae; drop them in soapy water
  2. 2.Spray neem oil or spinosad on leaf undersides early morning — repeat every 7 days until pressure drops
  3. 3.Rotate this bed out of beans for at least 2 seasons; UGA Extension flags Mexican bean beetle as a top-10 priority to catch before populations build
White powdery coating spreading across upper leaf surfaces in mid-summer

Likely Causes

  • Powdery mildew (Erysiphe polygoni) — fungal spores spread by wind, thrives when warm days follow cool nights
  • Dense canopy on a 6–8 ft trellis that limits airflow between vines

What to Do

  1. 1.Remove heavily coated leaves immediately and bag them — don't compost
  2. 2.Apply potassium bicarbonate or dilute neem solution (2 tsp per quart of water) to remaining foliage every 5–7 days
  3. 3.Train vines as they climb so they don't clump together; 4-inch spacing along the trellis is the minimum — closer than that and you're asking for trouble
Orange-brown pustules on leaf undersides with corresponding yellow spots on top, spreading fast in humid weather

Likely Causes

  • Bean rust (Uromyces appendiculatus) — moves rapidly when temperatures stay above 60°F and leaves stay wet
  • Overhead watering or rain that leaves foliage damp for hours at a stretch

What to Do

  1. 1.Strip and trash infected leaves at the first sign of pustules — waiting even a few days lets spores spread to healthy foliage
  2. 2.Switch to drip or soaker irrigation at 1 to 1.5 inches per week so leaves stay dry
  3. 3.NC State Extension's diagnostic guidance on pole beans notes that planting beans in the same spot for 5+ consecutive years builds up residue-borne inoculum — rotate legumes out of any bed where rust keeps returning
Mottled yellow-green mosaic on leaves, stunted growth, pods misshapen or failing to fill

Likely Causes

  • Bean common mosaic virus (BCMV) — transmitted by aphids feeding on infected plants nearby
  • Aphid colonies left unmanaged early in the season before the virus spreads

What to Do

  1. 1.No cure once infected — pull and bag symptomatic plants promptly to reduce aphid-driven spread to healthy vines
  2. 2.Knock back aphid populations with a firm water spray or insecticidal soap every 3–4 days during active pressure
  3. 3.Start next season with certified disease-free seed; Northeaster carries some field tolerance to BCMV, but clean seed is still the most reliable starting point

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does Northeaster pole bean take to grow?
Northeaster matures in 56 days from direct sowing to first harvest, making it one of the fastest pole bean varieties. You'll see flowers around day 40-45 and can begin picking tender pods at day 50-52. Total productive season extends 6-8 weeks with regular harvesting, longer in cooler climates or with succession plantings.
Is Northeaster pole bean good for beginners?
Yes—Northeaster is exceptionally beginner-friendly. It germinates reliably, grows vigorously, and requires no special care beyond basic watering and trellis support. The main beginner task is consistent harvesting; picking every few days keeps plants producing. Its early maturity means you'll have success and flavor before season's end, building confidence.
Can you grow Northeaster bean in containers?
Yes, with limitations. Use a 5-gallon pot minimum (larger is better) with well-draining soil and a sturdy 6-foot trellis or stake. Container plants dry out faster and need consistent watering—daily in hot weather. Yields will be lower than in-ground plants, but container growing works well for small-space gardeners. Position the pot in full sun.
What does Northeaster pole bean taste like?
Northeaster has a deliciously rich, complex sweet flavor—noticeably more flavorful than grocery store beans. The pods are tender, crisp, and stringless when picked at proper maturity. The flavor is buttery with subtle nutty undertones, making them excellent steamed with just butter and salt, or in light sautés where the bean flavor shines.
When should I plant Northeaster pole beans?
Direct sow Northeaster outdoors after your last spring frost date, once soil reaches 60°F or warmer (65-70°F is ideal). Soak seeds overnight before planting. For continuous harvest, make succession plantings every 2-3 weeks through early summer. In the South, you can plant again in mid-summer for a fall crop before frost.
How do you know when Northeaster beans are ready to pick?
Northeaster pods are ready at 7-8 inches long when they snap cleanly when bent (the snap test). Pods should be bright green with no yellowing. Harvest every 2-3 days in the early morning for best quality and tenderness. Frequent picking signals the plant to keep flowering; neglecting harvest stops production.

Growing Guides from Wind River Greens

Where to Buy Seeds

Sources & References

External authority sources used in compiling this guide.

See the Methodology page for how this data is sourced, what's AI-assisted, and known limitations.

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