Queeny Lime with Blush
Zinnia elegans
Wikimedia Commons via Zinnia elegans
Innovative and elegant. Mostly double and semidouble 2-3 1/2" blooms with a small percentage of singles. Cut-and-come-again flower, yielding multiple cuts over the season. Previously and widely known as 'Queen Lime Blush' or 'Queen Lime Blotch.' Over the years, as the breeder has developed new colors in the series, he has transitioned the series name from "Queen" to "Queeny." To respect his wishes, we have updated the product names accordingly.
Harvest
75-85d
Days to harvest
Sun
Full sun
Zones
2–11
USDA hardiness
Height
0-3 feet
Planting Timeline
Showing dates for Queeny Lime with Blush in USDA Zone 7
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Queeny Lime with Blush · Zones 2–11
Growing Details
Zone-by-Zone Planting Calendar
| Zone | Indoor Start | Transplant | Direct Sow | Harvest |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Zone 1 | May – June | July – August | July – September | — |
| Zone 2 | April – May | June – July | June – August | — |
| Zone 11 | January – January | January – February | January – March | — |
| Zone 12 | January – January | January – February | January – March | — |
| Zone 13 | January – January | January – February | January – March | — |
| Zone 3 | April – May | June – July | June – August | — |
| Zone 4 | March – April | June – June | June – July | — |
| Zone 5 | March – April | May – June | May – July | — |
| Zone 6 | March – April | May – June | May – July | — |
| Zone 7 | February – March | April – May | April – June | — |
| Zone 8 | February – March | April – May | April – June | — |
| Zone 9 | January – February | March – April | March – May | — |
| Zone 10 | January – January | February – March | February – April | — |
Succession Planting
Direct sow every 2 to 3 weeks from April through early June in zone 7, stopping before sustained daytime highs hit 90°F — soil temperatures above 85°F drag germination down sharply and the seedlings that do emerge tend to be weak. That staggered cadence produces a fresh flush of blooms roughly every 3 weeks through the cutting season, rather than one big wave that peaks in July and fizzles. If you're starting indoors, sow 4–6 weeks before your last frost date and hold transplants until nighttime lows are reliably above 50°F.
Complete Growing Guide
Queeny Lime with Blush rewards gardeners who give it a sunny, well-prepared bed. Choose a site with at least 6 hours of direct sun — anything less and you'll see weaker stems, fewer blooms, and increased mildew pressure. Work 2-3 inches of finished compost into the top 8 inches of soil before planting. Zinnias aren't picky about soil type, but they thrive in well-drained ground with a pH between 5.5 and 7.5. Avoid heavy clay that stays soggy, as wet feet lead to root issues.
You can either direct sow after your last frost date when soil temperatures reach 70°F, or start seeds indoors 4-6 weeks before transplanting. Indoor starts give you a jump on the season, but zinnias resent root disturbance — use deep cell trays or soil blocks and transplant before they get rootbound. Sow seeds ¼ inch deep, and expect germination in 7-10 days at 70-75°F.
Space plants 9-12 inches apart for cut flower production. Tighter spacing forces longer, straighter stems, which is exactly what you want for bouquets. For garden display, 12-18 inches gives bushier plants. Pinch your plants when they reach 8-12 inches tall — snip the central growing tip just above a leaf pair. This single step is the most important thing you can do for yield, as it triggers branching and dramatically multiplies stem count.
Feed lightly. Zinnias are not heavy feeders, and excess nitrogen produces lush foliage at the expense of blooms. A balanced organic fertilizer at planting and a light side-dress of compost mid-season is plenty. Water at the base of plants in the morning — overhead watering invites powdery mildew, the single biggest problem zinnia growers face. Drip irrigation or soaker hoses are ideal.
In humid zones (7 and warmer), spacing for airflow is critical. Plants crowded together will mildew badly by August. Tall varieties may need light support; corral them with stakes and twine, or run a single layer of horizontal netting (Hortonova) at 18 inches that plants grow through.
Common mistakes: planting too early in cold soil (seeds rot), skipping the pinch (you'll get one tall stem instead of many branching ones), overhead watering (mildew), and harvesting too early before stems have hardened. Keep deadheading or cutting throughout the season — the moment you let blooms go to seed, the plant slows production. Treated as a true cut-and-come-again, a single Queeny Lime with Blush plant can yield 15-20 stems across a long summer.
Harvesting
Timing matters enormously with zinnias. Harvest only when stems pass the wiggle test: hold the stem 6-8 inches below the bloom and gently shake. If the flower head flops or bends, it's not ready and will wilt in the vase. If the stem stays rigid and the bloom holds upright, cut it. This usually means waiting until the flower is fully open and the stem has hardened off — typically several days after the bud first opens.
Cut in the cool of early morning when plants are fully hydrated. Use sharp, clean snips and cut deep into the plant — at least 12-18 inches down to a leaf node or lateral branch. Shallow cuts produce short, weak follow-up stems; deep cuts trigger long, strong new growth. Strip lower foliage immediately and place stems in clean water. Expect 7-10 days of vase life. Harvest every 2-3 days at peak season to keep plants producing and prevent any blooms from going to seed.
Storage & Preservation
For fresh cut stems, change vase water every 2-3 days and recut stems at an angle each time. Keep arrangements out of direct sun and away from ripening fruit (ethylene shortens vase life). Zinnias don't store well refrigerated for long periods — they're best used within a week of cutting. For short-term holding before an event, store at 38-40°F in a cooler for up to 3 days.
To preserve blooms, silica gel drying produces the best results: bury fresh blooms face-up in silica gel for 5-7 days to retain color and form. Air-drying upside down in a dark, well-ventilated spot also works but causes more color fade. Pressing flat between absorbent paper preserves the blush tones beautifully for craft projects. Save seeds by letting end-of-season blooms fully dry on the plant, then crumble heads and store seeds in a cool, dry place.
History & Origin
The Queeny series — originally launched as the Queen series — was developed by independent flower breeder Bob Croft, working in partnership with Johnny's Selected Seeds. Released in the early 2010s, the Queen Lime line became an instant favorite among cut flower farmers and floral designers for its sophisticated, antique color palette that broke away from the bright primary tones traditionally associated with zinnias. Queen Lime Blush (now Queeny Lime with Blush) was among the original colors, prized for its unusual combination of chartreuse and dusty pink that complemented the muted, romantic palette popular in modern wedding florals. As Croft expanded the series with additional colors over the years, he renamed it from 'Queen' to 'Queeny' to unify branding. Reputable seed sellers have followed suit out of respect for the breeder. The series has played a significant role in the resurgence of zinnias as a premium cut flower crop on small specialty farms across North America.
Advantages
- +Exceptional cut-and-come-again productivity — 15-20 stems per plant over a season
- +Designer-favorite color combination of lime green and dusty blush, hard to find elsewhere
- +Long vase life of 7-10 days when harvested correctly
- +Heat and humidity tolerant once established, blooming through high summer
- +Easy from seed with high germination rates, ideal for first-time cut flower growers
- +Mostly double and semi-double form provides full, lush blooms for arrangements
- +Attracts pollinators including bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds
Considerations
- -Highly susceptible to powdery mildew in humid climates without good airflow
- -Small percentage of singles in the seed lot — not 100% uniform
- -Stems can be floppy if cut too early; requires the wiggle test to harvest properly
- -Color intensity varies with temperature and light — blush may fade in extreme heat
- -Requires consistent harvesting/deadheading or production drops off quickly
Companion Plants
Marigolds and calendula are the most practical neighbors — both emit scent compounds that deter aphids and their open flower structures attract predatory hoverflies (Syrphidae) that feed on spider mites. Sweet alyssum at 6–8 inches away keeps parasitic wasps (Aphidius spp.) working the bed all season; that benefit is well-documented, not garden mythology. Chives contribute sulfur-based volatiles that discourage soft-bodied insects without competing much at 9–12-inch spacing. Fennel produces anethole, a compound that suppresses root development in many nearby plants — give it at least 3 feet of clearance, or just keep it out of the cutting garden entirely.
Plant Together
Petunias
Repel aphids, tomato hornworms, and other garden pests
Lavender
Deters moths, fleas, and mosquitoes while attracting pollinators
Chives
Repel aphids and improve overall plant health through root secretions
Calendula
Attracts beneficial insects and repels aphids and whiteflies
Cosmos
Attract beneficial predatory insects and provide structural support
Marigolds
Repel aphids, whiteflies, and nematodes while attracting beneficial insects
Sweet Alyssum
Attracts beneficial predatory insects and provides ground cover
Nasturtiums
Act as trap crop for aphids and cucumber beetles, repel squash bugs
Keep Apart
Black Walnut
Produces juglone toxin that inhibits growth of many flowering plants
Eucalyptus
Releases allelopathic compounds that suppress growth of nearby plants
Fennel
Inhibits growth of most garden plants through allelopathic root secretions
Pests & Disease Resistance
Common Pests
Aphids, Japanese beetles, spider mites, earwigs
Diseases
Powdery mildew, alternaria leaf spot, bacterial leaf spot, botrytis
Troubleshooting Queeny Lime with Blush
What you'll see, why it happens, and what to do about it.
White powdery coating on upper leaf surfaces, usually appearing mid-summer when nights cool down
Likely Causes
- Powdery mildew (Erysiphe cichoracearum) — airborne fungal spores that thrive in humid nights with warm days
- Crowded spacing under 9 inches that kills airflow between plants
What to Do
- 1.Remove and trash the worst-affected leaves; don't compost them
- 2.Spray with a diluted potassium bicarbonate solution (follow label rates) every 7 days until it backs off
- 3.Next season, hold to 12-inch spacing and site the bed where morning sun dries the foliage fast
Small, water-soaked spots on leaves that turn tan or brown with yellow halos, spreading across the plant by week 8 or 9
Likely Causes
- Alternaria leaf spot (Alternaria zinniae) — fungal, spreads via splashing water and infected seed
- Overhead watering that keeps foliage wet for extended periods
What to Do
- 1.Switch to drip irrigation or water at the base only — wet foliage is what keeps this going
- 2.Strip off infected leaves and bin them
- 3.If it's severe, apply a copper-based fungicide on a 10-day schedule; NC State Extension lists copper as effective for Alternaria on ornamentals
Distorted new growth, sticky residue on stems and buds, with a sooty black film developing on top of the residue
Likely Causes
- Aphid colonies (commonly Myzus persicae) feeding on soft tissue and depositing honeydew
- Sooty mold (Capnodium spp.) colonizing the honeydew left behind
What to Do
- 1.Knock aphids off with a firm stream of water three mornings in a row — most won't climb back
- 2.If colonies return within a week, apply insecticidal soap directly to them; skip midday application or you'll scorch the foliage
- 3.Plant sweet alyssum within 12 inches to draw in parasitic wasps (Aphidius spp.) that work aphid populations down over the course of a season
Ragged holes chewed through petals and leaves, or entire blooms eaten down, with some stems showing damage near soil level
Likely Causes
- Japanese beetles (Popillia japonica) — skeletonize petals and leaves during their June–August flight window
- Earwigs (Forficula auricularia) — feed at night, especially on petals and soft stem tissue near the base
What to Do
- 1.Hand-pick Japanese beetles in the early morning when they're sluggish and drop them into soapy water; skip the pheromone traps, which pull in more beetles from the neighborhood than you started with
- 2.For earwigs, set a shallow dish of vegetable oil at the base of plants overnight — they fall in and don't come back out
- 3.Pull dense mulch back a few inches from the stem base to reduce the damp harborage earwigs prefer
Frequently Asked Questions
What's the difference between Queen Lime Blush and Queeny Lime with Blush?▼
How long does Queeny Lime with Blush take to bloom?▼
Can you grow Queeny Lime with Blush in pots?▼
Is Queeny Lime with Blush good for beginners?▼
Why are my Queeny Lime zinnias floppy when I cut them?▼
When should I plant Queeny Lime with Blush seeds?▼
Growing Guides from Wind River Greens
Where to Buy Seeds
Sources & References
External authority sources used in compiling this guide.
- BreederJohnny's Selected Seeds
See the Methodology page for how this data is sourced, what's AI-assisted, and known limitations.