Heirloom

Pink Gin

Digitalis purpurea

a pink lollipop sitting on top of a table next to flowers

Second-year flowering. Delicately colored shell-pink bells with lightly freckled throats. Bells form on one side of the stem. In our trials, Pink Gin produced 4-7 tall stems and 2-3 shorter, secondary stems per plant. Can be fall or spring-planted. NOTE: Flowering occurs in late spring in the second season of growth.

Harvest

365d

Days to harvest

📅

Sun

Full sun to partial shade

☀️

Zones

4–9

USDA hardiness

🗺️

Height

2-5 feet

📏

Planting Timeline

Zone:

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

Start Indoors

Transplant

Direct Sow

Start Indoors

Transplant

Direct Sow

Showing dates for Pink Gin in USDA Zone 7

All Zone 7 flower →

Zone Map

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Pink Gin · Zones 4–9

What grows well in Zone 7? →

Growing Details

Difficulty

Easy

Spacing18-24 inches

WaterHigh — consistent moisture needed

SeasonBiennial

ColorShell-pink

Zone-by-Zone Planting Calendar

Zone	Indoor Start	Transplant	Direct Sow	Harvest
Zone 3	April – May	June – July	June – August	—
Zone 4	March – April	June – June	June – July	—
Zone 5	March – April	May – June	May – July	—
Zone 6	March – April	May – June	May – July	—
Zone 7	February – March	April – May	April – June	—
Zone 8	February – March	April – May	April – June	—
Zone 9	January – February	March – April	March – May	—
Zone 10	January – January	February – March	February – April	—
Zone 1	May – June	July – August	July – September	—
Zone 2	April – May	June – July	June – August	—
Zone 11	January – January	January – February	January – March	—
Zone 12	January – January	January – February	January – March	—
Zone 13	January – January	January – February	January – March	—

Complete Growing Guide

Light: Full sun (6 or more hours of direct sunlight a day), Partial Shade (Direct sunlight only part of the day, 2-6 hours). Soil: High Organic Matter. Soil pH: Acid (<6.0). Drainage: Good Drainage, Moist. Height: 2 ft. 0 in. - 5 ft. 0 in.. Spread: 1 ft. 0 in. - 2 ft. 6 in.. Spacing: 12 inches-3 feet. Growth rate: Medium. Maintenance: Medium. Propagation: Seed. Regions: Coastal, Mountains, Piedmont.

Harvesting

Rounded fruit capsule which splits open at maturity to release the numerous small brown, ridged seeds.

Type: Capsule.

Storage & Preservation

Pink Gin is an ornamental flower, not a culinary plant, so post-harvest storage focuses on extending cut-flower display. For fresh arrangements, cut stems and immediately place in cool water with floral preservative (or a teaspoon of sugar and a few drops of bleach). Change water every 2-3 days and recut stems at an angle to maximize water uptake. Cut arrangements last 3-7 days in a cool location away from direct sun and ripening fruit.

To dry flowers for long-term arrangement or crafting, harvest full stems just as flowers are opening. Hang bundles upside down in a warm, dry, dark space (like an attic or shed) for 2-3 weeks until papery and brittle. Dried Pink Gin flowers retain color well and last indefinitely in arrangements.

For heirloom seed saving, allow mature seed capsules to dry completely on the plant, then harvest and store seeds in a cool, dry location. Properly dried seeds remain viable for 2-3 years, enabling you to maintain your Pink Gin line year after year.

History & Origin

Pink Gin is open-pollinated, meaning seed saved from healthy plants will produce true-to-type offspring. Listed in the Johnny's Selected Seeds catalog.

Origin: Europe

Advantages

+Attracts: Bees, Butterflies, Pollinators

Considerations

-Toxic (Flowers, Leaves, Roots, Stems): High severity

Companion Plants

The strongest companions for Pink Gin foxglove are plants that help manage soft-bodied insects without competing hard for water. Lavender and Rosemary fit that role well — their volatile oils interfere with the host-finding behavior of aphids and thrips, and neither will drain the consistent moisture foxglove needs because both are drought-tolerant once established. Catmint earns its place for a different reason: its flowers pull in predatory wasps and ground beetles that work through the larvae of chewing insects, and its low mounding habit fills the base of a planting without shading the foxglove crown. Sweet Alyssum planted 12–18 inches out acts as a living mulch that stabilizes soil temperature and draws hoverflies, whose larvae are effective aphid predators.

Marigolds and Nasturtiums are fine nearby — they add color at a lower tier and provide some incidental pest distraction — but don't expect a deep chemical mechanism from either pairing. Cosmos is similarly low-drama; it fills vertical space alongside the foxglove spike without crowding roots at ground level.

Black Walnut is the most serious plant to keep away. Its roots, bark, and leaf litter all release juglone, a compound that interferes with cellular respiration in sensitive plants — Digitalis is among them. Eucalyptus causes a different problem: its decomposing leaf litter releases allelopathic compounds that suppress root development in neighboring plants. Fennel is broadly allelopathic to a wide range of garden species and doesn't belong near ornamental beds regardless of what else is growing there.

Plant Together

Lavender

Repels aphids, moths, and other pests while attracting beneficial pollinators

Marigolds

Natural pest deterrent against nematodes, aphids, and whiteflies

Catmint

Deters ants, aphids, and rodents while attracting beneficial insects

Sweet Alyssum

Attracts beneficial insects like lacewings and hoverflies that control pests

Nasturtiums

Acts as trap crop for aphids and cucumber beetles, protecting nearby plants

Rosemary

Natural pest repellent against carrot flies, cabbage moths, and Mexican bean beetles

Chives

Repels aphids and Japanese beetles while improving soil health

Cosmos

Attracts beneficial predatory insects and provides complementary colors

Keep Apart

Black Walnut

Produces juglone toxin that inhibits growth and can kill many flowering plants

Eucalyptus

Releases allelopathic compounds that suppress growth of nearby plants

Fennel

Inhibits growth of most garden plants through allelopathic root secretions

Troubleshooting Pink Gin

What you'll see, why it happens, and what to do about it.

Seedlings collapse at soil level, stems pinched or rotted off near the base

Likely Causes

Damping off (Pythium or Rhizoctonia spp.) — triggered by overwatering and poor airflow around seedlings
Sowing too densely, which keeps humidity high at soil level

What to Do

1.Water from below using a tray rather than overhead, and let the top 1/4 inch of mix dry between waterings
2.Thin seedlings to at least 1 inch apart as soon as they have their first true leaves
3.If it's already spreading, drench surviving seedlings with a dilute hydrogen peroxide solution (1 part 3% H2O2 to 9 parts water)

Leaves covered in a powdery white or gray coating, usually starting on older foliage in midsummer

Likely Causes

Powdery mildew (Erysiphe spp.) — common when days are warm and nights cool, especially in crowded plantings
Overhead watering late in the day that leaves foliage damp overnight

What to Do

1.Space plants at least 18 inches apart at transplant to get air moving between them
2.Spray affected leaves with a dilute baking soda solution (1 tablespoon per gallon of water) weekly until symptoms stop spreading
3.Remove and bag the worst-affected leaves — don't compost them

Leaves stippled with tiny pale dots, undersides showing fine webbing during dry spells

Likely Causes

Two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae) — populations explode on stressed plants during hot, dry stretches

What to Do

1.Blast the undersides of leaves with a strong stream of water every 2–3 days for a week
2.Apply insecticidal soap or neem oil to leaf undersides in the evening — coverage matters more than volume
3.Keep soil consistently moist; water-stressed foxgloves draw mite pressure faster than healthy ones

Plant produces a full rosette in year one but never sends up a flower spike in year two

Likely Causes

Digitalis purpurea is a true biennial — it needs a cold vernalization period (sustained temperatures below 40°F for several weeks) to trigger bolting and bloom
Plants kept in a heated greenhouse or frost-free environment all winter miss that cold exposure entirely
Heavy shade or severe crowding heading into the second spring can also suppress spike development

What to Do

1.Let first-year plants overwinter outdoors — real cold, not a protected cold frame that stays above freezing
2.In mild-winter areas near the zone 9 edge, move containers to an unheated garage for 6–8 weeks in January to simulate vernalization
3.Going into the second spring, make sure plants are getting at least 4 hours of direct sun and aren't hemmed in by taller neighbors

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does Pink Gin bellflower take to flower from seed?▼

Pink Gin is a biennial, meaning it requires two growing seasons to produce flowers. In year one, it develops a foliage rosette and establishes its root system. Flowers appear reliably in late spring of year two. You can accelerate your garden display by planting established transplants (rather than seed) in spring—these will flower that same late spring. To maintain continuous blooms in a garden, you'll either need successive plantings each year or allow plants to self-seed.

When should I plant Pink Gin bellflower?▼

Plant Pink Gin in either late summer (August-September) for fall establishment, or in early spring (March-April after last frost) for spring growth. Both timings give the plant an entire season to establish before year-two flowering. Fall planting works well in most zones (the rosette overwinters dormant), while spring planting suits cold climates where young plants might struggle through harsh winters. Either way, expect flowers to appear in late spring of the following year.

Can you grow Pink Gin bellflower in containers?▼

Yes, Pink Gin grows successfully in containers, though you'll need adequate depth for its robust root system and multi-stem structure. Use a 12-14 inch pot with well-draining potting mix. Container plants may need more frequent watering than in-ground plantings, especially during year two when flowering increases water demand. Containers also allow you to position plants strategically for best light exposure (4-6+ hours daily) and manage self-seeding by deadheading before capsules mature.

Is Pink Gin bellflower easy to grow for beginners?▼

Yes, Pink Gin is exceptionally beginner-friendly. It's classified as an easy-difficulty variety requiring minimal intervention once established. The biennial lifecycle is its main quirk—you must remember that year-one plantings won't flower. Beyond that, it's drought-tolerant, rarely troubled by pests or diseases, thrives in various soil types, and doesn't require fertilizer or staking. Its adaptability to fall or spring planting and flexible light requirements (full sun to partial shade) make it forgiving for garden placement mistakes.

What's the difference between Pink Gin and other pink bellflower varieties?▼

Pink Gin's defining features are its distinctly freckled throat markings (lighter speckles contrasting with the shell-pink petals) and prolific multi-stem production—consistently delivering 4-7 tall stems plus 2-3 secondary stems per plant. Many pink Campanula varieties produce fewer, single stems or lack the freckled throat character. Pink Gin's reliable biennial nature and documented heirloom lineage also distinguish it from modern hybrid bellflowers, which may be treated as annuals or offer different growth habits.

How do I save seeds from Pink Gin bellflower?▼

In late summer of year two, after flowers fade, allow some flower spikes to remain on the plant. The flower bells will swell into seed capsules that gradually dry and turn brown (typically August-September). Once papery and completely dry, harvest the capsules and open them to collect the tiny black seeds. Store dried seeds in a cool, dry location in a sealed container; properly stored Pink Gin seeds remain viable for 2-3 years. This practice preserves the heirloom variety and provides unlimited free plants for future seasons.