Hybrid

Maryland Lavender I-II

Antirrhinum majus

Wikimedia Commons via Antirrhinum majus

Group 2, cool-season snapdragon, bred for performance under short days, low light, and low-temperature conditions. Not recommended for summer production. Plants produce short, thin stems under high light, summer temperatures, and long-day conditions. Pair with other Group 1 and 2 snapdragons such as the Costa II and Avignon series. Edible Flowers: The flowers are a colorful garnish for use in salads, desserts, and drinks. The flavor is floral and slightly bitter, so use sparingly.

Harvest

100-110d

Days to harvest

📅

Sun

Full sun to partial shade

☀️

Zones

7–10

USDA hardiness

🗺️

Height

0-3 feet

📏

Planting Timeline

Zone:

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

Start Indoors

Transplant

Direct Sow

Start Indoors

Transplant

Direct Sow

Showing dates for Maryland Lavender I-II in USDA Zone 7

All Zone 7 flower →

Zone Map

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Maryland Lavender I-II · Zones 7–10

What grows well in Zone 7? →

Growing Details

Difficulty

Easy

Spacing12-15 inches

SoilWell-draining potting soil or garden soil with good organic matter

WaterRegular; keep consistently moist but not waterlogged, especially important in cool seasons

SeasonWarm season annual

FlavorFloral and slightly bitter, requiring restrained use in culinary applications

ColorLavender

Zone-by-Zone Planting Calendar

Zone	Indoor Start	Transplant	Direct Sow	Harvest
Zone 1	May – June	July – August	July – September	—
Zone 2	April – May	June – July	June – August	—
Zone 11	January – January	January – February	January – March	—
Zone 12	January – January	January – February	January – March	—
Zone 13	January – January	January – February	January – March	—
Zone 3	April – May	June – July	June – August	—
Zone 4	March – April	June – June	June – July	—
Zone 5	March – April	May – June	May – July	—
Zone 6	March – April	May – June	May – July	—
Zone 7	February – March	April – May	April – June	—
Zone 8	February – March	April – May	April – June	—
Zone 9	January – February	March – April	March – May	—
Zone 10	January – January	February – March	February – April	—

Succession Planting

Maryland Lavender I-II takes 100–110 days to bloom, so staggering plantings gives you overlapping cut-flower windows rather than one compressed flush. In zone 7, start a second round of seeds indoors in late March after your February sow, then get that second batch in the ground by early May. A third direct sow in late April can push the season further, but stop there — snapdragons slow down hard once daytime highs stay above 80°F, and this variety won't give you much worth cutting through July or August.

In zones 8–10, a fall succession often outperforms the spring one. Sow indoors in late August, transplant in October, and let the plants establish through the cool months for a spring bloom flush. Plants that root in during mild fall weather tend to be stockier and more floriferous than ones pushed through summer heat — the 100-day clock runs more smoothly when it's not fighting the thermometer.

Complete Growing Guide

Light: Full sun (6 or more hours of direct sunlight a day), Partial Shade (Direct sunlight only part of the day, 2-6 hours). Soil: High Organic Matter. Drainage: Good Drainage. Height: 0 ft. 6 in. - 3 ft. 0 in.. Spread: 0 ft. 6 in. - 0 ft. 10 in.. Spacing: Less than 12 inches. Growth rate: Medium. Maintenance: Medium.

Harvesting

Maryland Lavender I-II reaches harvest at 100 - 110 days from sowing per Johnny's Selected Seeds. As an annual, harvest continues until frost ends the season.

A capsule, half hidden by calyx lobes, short-beaked.

Type: Capsule. Length: 1-3 inches.

Storage & Preservation

Fresh-harvested Maryland Lavender I-II flowers last longest in a cool environment. Refrigerate cut spikes in water at 35-40°F; they'll hold quality for 5-7 days. For fresh eating, use flowers immediately after harvest—they maintain peak flavor and texture for 24 hours at room temperature, up to 72 hours refrigerated in a sealed container with a paper towel to absorb excess moisture.

To preserve, dry flowers in a cool, dark, airy space (65-70°F) for 1-2 weeks hanging inverted in bundles, or lay flat on screens. Dried flowers are excellent for craft arrangements and herbal infusions. Alternatively, freeze individual flowers on a baking sheet, then transfer to freezer bags for up to 3 months—though texture softens, they're useful in drinks and garnishes. Store dried or frozen flowers in airtight containers away from light and heat to retain color and delicate lavender flavor notes.

History & Origin

Maryland Lavender I-II is an F1 hybrid developed through controlled cross-pollination. Listed in the Johnny's Selected Seeds catalog.

Origin: Southwestern Europe

Advantages

+Excellent performance in cool seasons with low light conditions
+Short, easy 100-110 day production cycle from seed to flower
+Edible flowers provide unique culinary garnish with floral, slightly bitter flavor
+Pairs well with other Group snapdragons for mixed bouquet arrangements
+Easy difficulty level makes it suitable for beginner growers

Considerations

-Not suitable for summer production or warm temperature environments
-Produces short, thin stems under high light and long-day conditions
-Requires cool season timing, limiting production flexibility year-round
-Bitter flavor profile requires sparingly used amounts in culinary applications

Companion Plants

Herbs like rosemary, thyme, oregano, and sage pull their weight here by attracting predatory wasps and hoverflies that keep aphid colonies from establishing on the snapdragon's tender new tips. Their aromatic oils also appear to disrupt whitefly host-finding. Catmint does similar pest-confusion work, while marigolds (Tagetes spp.) go a step further — their roots release thiophenes that suppress certain soil nematodes, which matters if you're growing in beds that have seen heavy foot traffic or previous disease. Alliums and echinacea round out the bed without fighting snapdragons for the 12–15 inches of root space they need.

Mint is the one to pull before it gets started — it colonizes by underground runners and will swallow a snapdragon's spacing in a single season. Impatiens are a subtler problem: they prefer shadier, wetter conditions and frequently carry downy mildew (Plasmopara obducens), which puts extra fungal pressure on a plant already watching its back against Botrytis. Hostas and camellias are simply mismatched on light and moisture and don't belong in the same bed.

Plant Together

Rosemary

Similar growing conditions and mutually repel pests like moths and beetles

Thyme

Compatible Mediterranean herbs that attract beneficial pollinators together

Oregano

Shares drought tolerance and helps repel ants and aphids

Sage

Similar water and soil requirements, both deter rabbits and deer

Catmint

Attracts beneficial insects and repels mosquitoes, thrives in similar conditions

Marigolds

Natural pest deterrent that protects lavender from nematodes and aphids

Alliums

Repel aphids, slugs, and cabbage worms while requiring similar well-draining soil

Echinacea

Both attract pollinators and beneficial insects, compatible growing needs

Keep Apart

Mint

Aggressive spreader that can overwhelm lavender and prefers more moisture

Impatiens

Requires frequent watering and rich soil that can cause lavender root rot

Camellias

Prefer acidic soil while lavender needs alkaline conditions

Hosta

Needs shade and consistent moisture, opposite of lavender's sun and dry soil needs

Pests & Disease Resistance

Common Pests

Aphids, spider mites, whiteflies (typically minimal in cool-season growing)

Diseases

Botrytis, powdery mildew (in humid conditions with poor air circulation)

Troubleshooting Maryland Lavender I-II

What you'll see, why it happens, and what to do about it.

Soft, gray-brown fuzzy patches on stems or flowers, especially during cool, wet stretches

Likely Causes

Botrytis cinerea (gray mold) — thrives below 60°F with poor air circulation
Overhead watering that leaves foliage wet overnight

What to Do

1.Remove and trash (not compost) any affected stems or blooms immediately
2.Water at the base, not overhead, and do it in the morning so foliage dries before nightfall
3.Thin plants to maintain at least 12 inches between them — crowded snapdragons are Botrytis bait

White powdery coating on upper leaf surfaces, usually showing up mid-season when nights cool back down

Likely Causes

Powdery mildew (Erysiphe antirrhini) — dry days and humid nights are the trigger, not wet leaves
Poor airflow from dense planting or nearby structures

What to Do

1.Spray affected foliage with a solution of 1 tablespoon baking soda + 1 teaspoon horticultural oil per gallon of water
2.Cut out heavily infected stems at the base
3.Next season, give plants the full 15-inch spacing and avoid planting near walls or fences that trap air

Clusters of small soft-bodied insects on new growth tips, leaves curling or distorting

Likely Causes

Aphids (Myzus persicae or Aphis gossypii) — they zero in on the tender growing tips first
Absence of predatory insects, often from nearby pesticide use

What to Do

1.Knock aphids off with a firm stream of water from a hose — do this 3 mornings in a row
2.Apply insecticidal soap (2–3% solution) directly to the colonies; coat the undersides of leaves
3.Plant marigolds or alliums nearby next season to draw in aphid predators like lacewings

Tiny yellow stippling across leaves, fine webbing visible on undersides in dry, hot conditions

Likely Causes

Two-spotted spider mites (Tetranychus urticae) — populations explode when temperatures exceed 85°F and humidity drops
Dusty conditions, which stress the plant and favor mite reproduction

What to Do

1.Spray the undersides of leaves with water daily for 5–7 days to break the mite life cycle
2.Apply neem oil (follow label dilution, typically 2 tablespoons per gallon) in the evening to avoid leaf scorch
3.If the infestation is severe, remove the worst-affected stems and dispose of them in the trash

Frequently Asked Questions

When should I plant Maryland Lavender I-II for best results?▼

Plant Maryland Lavender I-II in late summer through early spring for optimal performance. Start seeds indoors 8-10 weeks before your intended fall/winter planting date. Never plant in late spring or summer—this variety is specifically bred for cool-season growing and will fail in warm temperatures. Ideal bloom time is late fall through early spring when nighttime temperatures stay consistently below 70°F.

How long does Maryland Lavender I-II take to grow from seed to flower?▼

Maryland Lavender I-II reaches maturity in 100-110 days from seed. Germination occurs in 7-14 days under cool conditions (65-70°F). Add 8-10 weeks for indoor seed starting before transplanting, so plan 5-6 months total from seed sowing to first blooms in your garden.

Can I grow Maryland Lavender I-II in containers?▼

Yes, Maryland Lavender I-II grows well in containers with proper spacing. Use 12-15 inch pots with excellent drainage, filling with quality potting soil. Container growing is actually advantageous for temperature control—move pots to shadier spots or even indoors if unexpected warm spells occur. Containers may dry faster in cool weather, so check soil moisture carefully.

Is Maryland Lavender I-II good for edible flower gardening?▼

Maryland Lavender I-II flowers are fully edible with an attractive lavender color and floral flavor. However, they have a pronounced bitter undertone, so use sparingly as a garnish in salads, desserts, and cocktails rather than as a primary ingredient. Harvest only fully mature flowers, and use fresh within 24 hours for best flavor.

What's the difference between Maryland Lavender I-II and other Group 1 snapdragons?▼

Maryland Lavender I-II (Group 2) is specifically bred for cool-season, short-day growing with low light tolerance. Group 1 varieties like Costa II are better suited to longer days and higher light. Pairing both groups in your cool-season garden ensures consistent, complementary flowering. Group 2 varieties produce superior flowers in fall and winter when Group 1 varieties weaken.

What light conditions does Maryland Lavender I-II need?▼

Maryland Lavender I-II thrives with 4-6+ hours of filtered or indirect light. Afternoon shade is actually beneficial, especially as you approach spring. High-intensity, full summer sun will produce short, thin stems and poor-quality flowers. This light requirement is a key advantage in fall and winter when direct sun is limited and valuable for cool-season growing.