Hybrid

Maryland Flamingo I-II

Antirrhinum majus

Wikimedia Commons

Harvest

100-110d

Days to harvest

📅

Sun

Full sun to partial shade

☀️

Zones

7–10

USDA hardiness

🗺️

Height

0-3 feet

📏

Planting Timeline

Zone:

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

Start Indoors

Transplant

Direct Sow

Start Indoors

Transplant

Direct Sow

Showing dates for Maryland Flamingo I-II in USDA Zone 7

All Zone 7 flower →

Zone Map

Click a state to update dates

Maryland Flamingo I-II · Zones 7–10

What grows well in Zone 7? →

Growing Details

Difficulty

Easy

Spacing4-6 inches

SoilWell-drained, fertile seed-starting mix or greenhouse substrate; pH 6.0-7.0

WaterModerate; keep soil consistently moist but not waterlogged, especially critical in cool conditions where evaporation is slow

SeasonWarm season annual

FlavorFloral and slightly bitter; delicate botanical note best used sparingly as a garnish element

ColorSalmon-pink / Flamingo-pink

Zone-by-Zone Planting Calendar

Zone	Indoor Start	Transplant	Direct Sow	Harvest
Zone 1	May – June	July – August	July – September	—
Zone 2	April – May	June – July	June – August	—
Zone 11	January – January	January – February	January – March	—
Zone 12	January – January	January – February	January – March	—
Zone 13	January – January	January – February	January – March	—
Zone 3	April – May	June – July	June – August	—
Zone 4	March – April	June – June	June – July	—
Zone 5	March – April	May – June	May – July	—
Zone 6	March – April	May – June	May – July	—
Zone 7	February – March	April – May	April – June	—
Zone 8	February – March	April – May	April – June	—
Zone 9	January – February	March – April	March – May	—
Zone 10	January – January	February – March	February – April	—

Succession Planting

Maryland Flamingo I-II is a cut-flower snapdragon grown as a cool-season annual, and staggering your sowings makes a real difference for extending the harvest window. In zone 7, start a first tray indoors in early February and transplant out in April once nighttime lows are consistently above 35°F. Start a second tray 3–4 weeks later for a staggered flush of cut stems. Snapdragons go leggy and stop setting quality blooms once daytime highs push past 80°F, so don't bother sowing after early June — the 100–110 days to harvest won't resolve before heat shuts them down.

For a fall cut, start a fresh tray indoors in late July and transplant in mid-August. You need to hit that 100–110 day window before first frost, which in zone 7 typically arrives in early to mid-November. The math is tight but workable — just don't push that fall sowing past the first week of August or you'll be racing a hard freeze at the finish line.

Complete Growing Guide

Group 2 cool-season snapdragon bred for performance under short days, low light, and low-temperature conditions. Not recommended for summer production. Plants produce short, thin stems under high light, summer temperatures, and long-day conditions. Pair with other Group 1 and 2 snapdragons such as the Costa II and Avignon series. Edible Flowers: The flowers are a colorful garnish for use in salads, desserts, and drinks. The flavor is floral and slightly bitter, so use sparingly. According to Johnny's Selected Seeds, Maryland Flamingo I-II is 100 - 110 days to maturity, annual, hybrid (f1). Notable features: Greenhouse Performer, Use for Cut Flowers and Bouquets, Edible Flowers, Fragrant.

Light: Full sun (6 or more hours of direct sunlight a day), Partial Shade (Direct sunlight only part of the day, 2-6 hours). Soil: High Organic Matter. Drainage: Good Drainage. Height: 0 ft. 6 in. - 3 ft. 0 in.. Spread: 0 ft. 6 in. - 0 ft. 10 in.. Spacing: Less than 12 inches. Growth rate: Medium. Maintenance: Medium.

Harvesting

Maryland Flamingo I-II reaches harvest at 100 - 110 days from sowing per Johnny's Selected Seeds. As an annual, harvest continues until frost ends the season.

A capsule, half hidden by calyx lobes, short-beaked.

Type: Capsule. Length: 1-3 inches.

Storage & Preservation

Fresh-cut snapdragon stems last 7-10 days in a vase of clean, cool water with flower food. Remove foliage below the water line to prevent rot. Change water every 2-3 days. For shorter-term storage, keep cut stems in a cool room (50-60°F) with minimal light until use. Refrigerate at 35-40°F overnight if needed, but avoid freezing, which damages cell walls.

For edible flowers, store unwashed in an airtight container lined with paper towels in the refrigerator (35-40°F) for up to 2 days. Moisture accelerates wilting and mold. Frozen storage is not practical for edible flowers due to texture loss. For preservation as a garnish ingredient, air-dry blooms on screens in a warm, dark room with good air circulation (70-75°F, low humidity) for 5-7 days until papery-dry, then store in airtight jars with silica gel. Dried snapdragon flowers retain color and structure for several months and can be used in arrangements or as a decorative element, though culinary use is not recommended for dried flowers.

History & Origin

Maryland Flamingo I-II is an F1 hybrid developed through controlled cross-pollination. Listed in the Johnny's Selected Seeds catalog.

Origin: Southwestern Europe

Advantages

+Excellent performance in cool-season greenhouse production with short days
+Tolerates low light and low-temperature conditions other snapdragons struggle with
+Edible flowers provide colorful garnish option for culinary applications
+Pairs well with Costa II and Avignon series for mixed plantings
+Relatively easy to grow with straightforward 100-110 day production timeline

Considerations

-Produces weak, thin stems under summer heat and long-day conditions
-Not suitable for warm-season or year-round production schedules
-Slightly bitter flavor requires careful, sparing use in food applications
-Limited versatility outside cool-season growing windows restricts market timing

Companion Plants

Marigolds (especially Tagetes patula) are worth planting at the border — their root secretions deter certain nematodes, and their scent confuses whiteflies, which are a real nuisance for snapdragons in warm, sheltered spots. Sweet Alyssum and Calendula pull double duty: both attract parasitic wasps and hoverflies that prey on aphid colonies before they get established. Nasturtiums are a decent trap crop — aphids tend to pile onto them first, which at least gives you a visible target to deal with rather than finding the problem late on your snapdragon stems.

Fennel, Black Walnut, and Eucalyptus are the three to keep away from this bed. Fennel releases allelopathic compounds from its roots and foliage that stunt most nearby annuals, including Antirrhinum. Black Walnut produces juglone, a root toxin that has been documented to suppress or kill sensitive plants — and the affected zone can extend well beyond the tree's visible canopy. Eucalyptus has similar chemistry in the soil. None of these are edge cases; the damage is consistent enough that NC State Extension flags walnut toxicity specifically for ornamental plantings.

Plant Together

Marigolds

Repel nematodes and aphids while attracting beneficial insects

Nasturtiums

Act as trap crops for aphids and cucumber beetles

Lavender

Repels moths, fleas, and mosquitoes while attracting pollinators

Petunias

Repel aphids, tomato hornworms, and squash bugs

Sweet Alyssum

Attracts beneficial insects like lacewings and parasitic wasps

Zinnia

Attracts butterflies and beneficial predatory insects

Cosmos

Attracts beneficial insects and provides habitat for pest predators

Calendula

Repels aphids and whiteflies while attracting beneficial insects

Keep Apart

Black Walnut

Produces juglone which is toxic to many flowering plants

Eucalyptus

Releases allelopathic compounds that inhibit nearby plant growth

Fennel

Inhibits growth of most garden plants through allelopathy

Pests & Disease Resistance

Common Pests

Aphids, thrips, whiteflies (typical snapdragon pests in cool greenhouse conditions)

Diseases

Botrytis (gray mold), powdery mildew, root rot if drainage is poor

Troubleshooting Maryland Flamingo I-II

What you'll see, why it happens, and what to do about it.

Gray fuzzy coating on buds, stems, or spent flowers, especially in cool damp weather

Likely Causes

Botrytis cinerea (gray mold) — thrives below 65°F with high humidity and poor airflow
Spent flower petals sitting on foliage, providing easy entry points for the fungus

What to Do

1.Deadhead aggressively — remove spent blooms before petals drop onto the leaves
2.Thin plants if they're crowded tighter than 4 inches; airflow is your first defense
3.Apply a copper-based fungicide at first sign, and don't water overhead in the evening

White powdery patches on upper leaf surfaces, typically appearing mid-season as temperatures warm

Likely Causes

Powdery mildew (Podosphaera xanthii or Erysiphe cichoracearum) — common once days climb past 70°F with dry afternoons and cool nights
Overcrowded spacing that traps humidity around foliage

What to Do

1.Spray affected foliage with a diluted potassium bicarbonate solution or neem oil — do it in the morning so leaves dry before dark
2.Strip the worst-affected leaves and dispose of them in the trash, not the compost pile
3.Space plants at least 6 inches apart at transplant to reduce recurrence next season

Stunted new growth with sticky residue on leaves and tiny clustered insects visible on stems and buds

Likely Causes

Aphid colonies (commonly Myzus persicae or Macrosiphum euphorbiae) — they build fast in cool greenhouse or cold-frame conditions
Thrips (Frankliniella occidentalis) can cause similar distortion, especially on developing buds

What to Do

1.Knock aphids off with a firm stream of water; repeat every 2–3 days until the population collapses
2.For thrips inside a tunnel or greenhouse, introduce Amblyseius cucumeris (a predatory mite) — it's more reliable than repeated sprays in enclosed spaces
3.If pressure is heavy, apply insecticidal soap directly to the colonies, covering the undersides of leaves

Wilting that doesn't recover after watering, with brown or mushy stem tissue at or below the soil line

Likely Causes

Root rot from Pythium or Phytophthora spp. — almost always triggered by waterlogged soil or containers without adequate drainage
Planting into cold, wet soil below 50°F, which slows root development and invites pathogen activity

What to Do

1.Pull the affected plant — there's no recovering a snapdragon once rot reaches the crown
2.Amend your bed with perlite or coarse compost before the next planting to improve drainage
3.Hold off transplanting until soil temperatures are reliably above 50°F, and don't water again until the top inch is dry

Frequently Asked Questions

When should I plant Maryland Flamingo I-II snapdragon seeds?▼

Sow seeds 10-12 weeks before your target harvest window. For fall blooms, sow mid-July to early August. For winter and spring blooms, sow September through November. This variety is specifically bred for cool-season production, so timing to cooler months (when night temperatures are 50-65°F) is critical for optimal stem quality and flower performance.

Can I grow Maryland Flamingo I-II in summer?▼

Not successfully. This is a Group 2 cool-season variety engineered for short days, low light, and cool temperatures. Summer heat, long days, and intense light cause plants to stretch, produce weak stems, and flower poorly. Save this variety for fall, winter, and early spring production. If you need summer snapdragons, choose a Group 1 heat-tolerant variety instead.

How long does Maryland Flamingo I-II take to grow?▼

Maryland Flamingo I-II matures in 100-110 days from seed to first harvestable flowers. This includes approximately 7-10 days for germination, 4-5 weeks for seedling development, and 6-8 weeks for growth and flower spike initiation in cool conditions. Plan your sowing 10-12 weeks before your target harvest to account for transplanting and establishment time.

Is Maryland Flamingo I-II good for beginners?▼

Yes—it's rated as an easy-growing variety with no special seed-starting requirements. The main challenge is understanding its cool-season nature and not attempting summer production. If you sow at the right time (fall or winter) and provide cool conditions (below 70°F days ideally), this variety is forgiving and reliable. Container and garden growers will find it straightforward.

Can you grow Maryland Flamingo I-II in containers?▼

Absolutely. Use containers at least 4 inches deep and space plants 4-6 inches apart. The variety's compact, stocky growth habit makes it excellent for pot production. Ensure good drainage and air circulation around containers to prevent botrytis in cool, humid conditions. Container growing is especially practical for gardeners in warm climates who can move pots to shaded, cooler locations.

Are Maryland Flamingo I-II flowers edible and what do they taste like?▼

Yes, the flowers are edible and serve as a colorful garnish for salads, desserts, and drinks. The flavor is distinctly floral with a slightly bitter undertone, so use sparingly—a few blossoms per dish is ideal. Harvest in early morning, rinse gently, and use within a few hours for best flavor and freshness. They're not a strong-flavored ingredient but add visual and subtle botanical interest.