Stupice
Solanum lycopersicum 'Stupice'
This Czechoslovakian heirloom is prized as one of the earliest full-flavored tomatoes, often ripening weeks before other varieties. Despite its early maturity, it delivers complex, rich flavor that rivals the best season tomatoes. Perfect for short-season gardeners who don't want to sacrifice taste for earliness.
Harvest
60-65d
Days to harvest
Sun
Full sun
Zones
10–11
USDA hardiness
Height
1-10 feet
Planting Timeline
Showing dates for Stupice in USDA Zone 7
All Zone 7 tomato →Zone Map
Click a state to update dates
Stupice · Zones 10–11
Growing Details
Zone-by-Zone Planting Calendar
| Zone | Indoor Start | Transplant | Direct Sow | Harvest |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Zone 1 | May – May | July – August | — | September – August |
| Zone 2 | April – May | June – July | — | September – September |
| Zone 11 | January – January | January – February | — | April – June |
| Zone 12 | January – January | January – February | — | April – June |
| Zone 13 | January – January | January – February | — | April – June |
| Zone 3 | April – April | June – July | — | August – October |
| Zone 4 | March – April | June – June | — | August – October |
| Zone 5 | March – March | May – June | — | August – October |
| Zone 6 | March – March | May – June | — | July – September |
| Zone 7 | February – March | April – May | — | July – September |
| Zone 8 | February – February | April – May | — | June – August |
| Zone 9 | January – January | March – April | — | May – July |
| Zone 10 | January – January | February – March | — | May – July |
Complete Growing Guide
Plant Stupice seeds 8-10 weeks before your last spring frost, as this early-maturing cultivar demands a head start to capitalize on its 60-65 day advantage. Unlike longer-season varieties, Stupice thrives in cooler climates and actually produces better flavor when temperatures stay moderate; excessive heat can compromise its signature tartness, so provide afternoon shade in hot regions. This indeterminate heirloom grows vigorously to 10 feet, requiring sturdy support and consistent pruning to manage vigor without sacrificing fruit production. Watch for early blight, which strikes Czechoslovakian heirlooms more readily than modern hybrids—improve air circulation by removing lower leaves once plants establish, and mulch heavily to prevent soil splash. A practical advantage: because Stupice sets fruit quickly and reliably even during cool spring nights, start seeds extra-early to harvest fully ripe tomatoes before mid-season pests and diseases peak, extending your eating window significantly.
Light: Full sun (6 or more hours of direct sunlight a day). Soil: Clay, High Organic Matter, Loam (Silt), Sand. Soil pH: Acid (<6.0), Neutral (6.0-8.0). Drainage: Good Drainage, Moist. Height: 1 ft. 0 in. - 10 ft. 0 in.. Spread: 1 ft. 0 in. - 4 ft. 0 in.. Spacing: 3 feet-6 feet. Growth rate: Rapid. Maintenance: High. Propagation: Seed. Regions: Coastal, Mountains, Piedmont.
Harvesting
Stupice tomatoes reach peak ripeness when they display a deep red color throughout, though they may retain slight orange undertones near the stem, and should yield gently to palm pressure without feeling mushy. These fruits typically measure two to three inches in diameter when fully mature. Unlike determinate varieties that produce a single flush, Stupice bears fruit continuously throughout the season, rewarding frequent harvesting. Pick tomatoes at the first blush of full red color rather than waiting for complete uniformity, as this cultivar develops its signature complex flavor quickly once it reaches this stage. Harvesting at this earlier point also encourages the plant to direct energy toward additional fruit production, extending your harvest window into fall.
The fruits are smooth, shiny, glossy, and are classified as berries. The size, shape, and color will vary depending on the variety or cultivar. The color of the fruits may be red, yellow, orange, green, purple, or pink. The fruits may contain over 100 yellow to light brown seeds.
Color: Gold/Yellow, Green, Orange, Pink, Purple/Lavender, Red/Burgundy, Variegated. Type: Berry. Length: > 3 inches. Width: > 3 inches.
Garden value: Edible, Showy
Harvest time: Fall, Summer
Edibility: The fruits or berries of the tomato are edible. They may be eaten raw, cooked, dried, or processed. They are a rich source of Vitamin A, Vitamin C, folic acid, and antioxidants. Lycopene is an antioxidant that gives the tomato its rich red color. Many plants will drop fruit when ripe or the fruit will come off easily. Tomatoes will continue to ripen once picked. Store them at room temperature.
Storage & Preservation
Stupice tomatoes keep best at room temperature (65-70°F) away from direct sunlight until fully ripe, then may be refrigerated for up to two weeks in a breathable container or paper bag to slow further ripening. Expect a fresh shelf life of 7-10 days at room temperature, longer if chilled. For preservation, these tomatoes excel at canning whole or crushed due to their balanced acid and sugar content—process in a hot water bath for reliable results. Freezing works well for sauce applications; simply core and freeze whole, then thaw and slip off skins when needed. Drying is also rewarding, as the rich flavor concentrates beautifully. Their relatively thin skins mean they lose quality quickly once overripe, so harvest at the first blush of color and allow ripening indoors if needed rather than leaving fully mature fruit on the vine during heavy rain, which can cause splitting.
History & Origin
This Czechoslovakian heirloom emerged from Eastern European tomato breeding traditions, though detailed documentation of its specific breeder and introduction year remains scarce in English-language horticultural records. The variety's name and origins suggest development in Czechoslovakia (likely Czech Republic or Slovakia) during the mid-twentieth century, when regional breeding programs prioritized cold-hardy, early-maturing cultivars suited to shorter growing seasons. Like many heirloom varieties from Iron Curtain countries, Stupice's precise pedigree and parentage have been incompletely recorded in Western seed catalogs, making its lineage difficult to trace with certainty. What is well-established is its reputation as a reliable performer in cool-climate regions and its subsequent adoption by North American gardeners seeking genuine early tomatoes.
Origin: Peru
Advantages
- +Ripens in just 60-65 days, ideal for short-season gardeners
- +Delivers rich, complex flavor despite its early maturity
- +More disease-resistant than most traditional heirloom tomato varieties
- +Czechoslovakian heirloom with proven cold-hardiness and reliability
Considerations
- -Susceptible to both early and late blight in humid climates
- -Smaller fruit size means lower total yield per plant
- -Vulnerable to aphids and spider mites requiring regular monitoring
Companion Plants
Basil is the go-to pairing here, and it does earn its place — though mostly for practical reasons. Both crops want the same harvest window, and having fresh basil 12–18 inches from the plant means you're picking both at once. The pest-confusion argument (that basil's volatile oils deter thrips or aphids) has some basis, but it's easy to lean on too hard. Space them so neither is shading the other. Marigolds are more genuinely useful on the pest side: French marigolds (Tagetes patula) produce root exudates that suppress root-knot nematodes in surrounding soil, which matters specifically for Stupice. NC State Extension notes that heirloom varieties lack the nematode resistance bred into many modern hybrids — so Tagetes patula planted in a ring around the bed is doing real work, not just looking cheerful.
Carrots and chives fit well at 6–8 inches out. Their roots stay shallow, they don't compete for water, and chives may slow aphid colonization on new growth. Borage is worth a spot nearby if you want to pull in predatory wasps — it's one of the better insectary plants you can grow, and the effect is more reliable than most companion-planting claims. Once Stupice hits 3–4 feet, lettuce tucks neatly under the drip line and benefits from the afternoon shade without pulling moisture from depth.
Fennel is the one to keep in a separate bed entirely — its root exudates are allelopathic to a wide range of vegetables, and tomatoes are particularly sensitive. Ten feet of separation is the minimum. Brassicas share key pests with tomatoes, including cabbage loopers and Macrosiphum euphorbiae, so planting them close just gives those insects two adjacent food sources instead of one.
Plant Together
Basil
Repels aphids, whiteflies, and hornworms while potentially improving tomato flavor
Marigold
Deters nematodes, aphids, and whiteflies with natural compounds
Carrots
Helps break up soil for tomato roots and doesn't compete for nutrients
Parsley
Attracts beneficial insects like hoverflies that prey on tomato pests
Chives
Repels aphids and may help prevent fungal diseases
Nasturtium
Acts as trap crop for aphids and cucumber beetles while repelling whiteflies
Lettuce
Provides ground cover and efficient use of space without competing for resources
Borage
Repels hornworms and attracts pollinators, may improve tomato growth
Keep Apart
Black Walnut Trees
Produces juglone which is toxic to tomatoes and causes wilting
Fennel
Inhibits growth of most garden plants including tomatoes through allelopathy
Brassicas
Competes heavily for nutrients and may stunt tomato growth
Corn
Both attract corn earworm/tomato fruitworm, increasing pest pressure
Nutrition Facts
Per 100g serving. % Daily Value based on 2,000 calorie diet. Source: USDA FoodData Central (FDC #321360)
Pests & Disease Resistance
Resistance
Good cold tolerance, moderate disease resistance for an heirloom
Common Pests
Aphids, spider mites, tomato hornworm
Diseases
Early blight, late blight, but generally more resistant than many heirlooms
Troubleshooting Stupice
What you'll see, why it happens, and what to do about it.
Lower leaves developing dark brown bullseye-patterned spots, often with a yellow halo, starting around day 40–50 after transplant
Likely Causes
- Early blight (Alternaria solani) — soil-borne fungus that splashes up during rain or overhead watering
- Crowded spacing below 24 inches that limits airflow and keeps foliage wet longer
What to Do
- 1.Strip the affected leaves and bin them — don't compost them
- 2.Lay 3–4 inches of straw mulch around the base to stop rain splash from hitting the stem
- 3.NC State Extension's IPM guidance recommends rotating nightshades out of the same bed for at least 3–4 years, and up to 5–7 years if blight pressure has been high
Large sections of foliage turning gray-green and collapsing quickly — sometimes within 48 hours — with dark, water-soaked lesions on fruit
Likely Causes
- Late blight (Phytophthora infestans) — distinct from early blight and far more aggressive; spreads rapidly in cool, wet weather around 60–70°F
- Nearby infected potato plantings, which share the same pathogen
What to Do
- 1.Remove and bag affected plants immediately — do not compost
- 2.Don't replant tomatoes or potatoes in that bed without a 3–4 year gap
- 3.If late blight has been confirmed in your county (NC State's Plant Disease and Insect Clinic tracks regional outbreaks annually), apply a copper-based fungicide preventively before symptoms appear in subsequent seasons
Youngest leaves at the growing tip turning bright yellow, sometimes with a bleached or scorched look
Likely Causes
- Glyphosate herbicide drift from a nearby application — tomato is highly sensitive even at low doses, per NC State Extension's diagnostic notes
- Broad mite (Polyphagotarsonemus latus) feeding, which also distorts and bronzes new growth
What to Do
- 1.Check for a recent herbicide application within 100–200 feet; if drift is the cause, remove the most affected growth and give the plant consistent water — mild cases often recover
- 2.Inspect the newest leaflets with a 10x hand lens for broad mites; if present, apply insecticidal soap or spinosad, focusing on the growing tip
- 3.Hold off on foliar fertilizer until new growth looks normal — adding nitrogen to a stressed plant usually makes things worse, not better
Clusters of small, soft-bodied insects on new growth and the undersides of leaves, often accompanied by sticky residue or curling leaves
Likely Causes
- Aphids (commonly Macrosiphum euphorbiae, the potato aphid, on tomatoes) — populations can double in 2–3 days in warm weather
- Absence of predatory insects, often due to broad-spectrum insecticide use earlier in the season
What to Do
- 1.Knock them off with a firm stream of water from the hose — repeat every 2–3 days
- 2.Spray with insecticidal soap, coating the undersides of leaves where they cluster
- 3.Plant nasturtium nearby as a trap crop; aphids tend to pile onto it — pull and destroy the nasturtium stems once they're heavily infested rather than letting the colony spread back
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does Stupice tomato take to grow?▼
Is Stupice tomato good for beginners?▼
Can you grow Stupice tomatoes in containers?▼
What does Stupice tomato taste like?▼
When should I plant Stupice tomato seeds?▼
Stupice vs Early Girl tomato - what's the difference?▼
Growing Guides from Wind River Greens
Where to Buy Seeds
Sources & References
External authority sources used in compiling this guide.
See the Methodology page for how this data is sourced, what's AI-assisted, and known limitations.