Heirloom

De Milpa

Physalis philadelphica

Harvest

70d

Days to harvest

📅

Sun

Full sun

☀️

Zones

1–11

USDA hardiness

🗺️

Height

3-4 feet

📏

Planting Timeline

Zone:

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

Start Indoors

Transplant

Harvest

Start Indoors

Transplant

Harvest

Showing dates for De Milpa in USDA Zone 7

All Zone 7 tomato →

Zone Map

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De Milpa · Zones 1–11

What grows well in Zone 7? →

Growing Details

Difficulty

Moderate

Spacing24-30 inches

SoilWell-drained soil, slightly acidic to neutral pH (6.0-7.0), enriched with compost or aged manure

WaterRegular; 1-1.5 inches per week, more frequent during fruiting and in containers

SeasonWarm season annual

FlavorBalanced tart-citrus with subtle sweetness, concentrated flavor from high dry matter content, ideal for fresh salsa

ColorGreen with purple blush after harvest

Zone-by-Zone Planting Calendar

Zone	Indoor Start	Transplant	Direct Sow	Harvest
Zone 1	May – May	July – August	—	September – August
Zone 2	April – May	June – July	—	September – September
Zone 11	January – January	January – February	—	April – June
Zone 12	January – January	January – February	—	April – June
Zone 13	January – January	January – February	—	April – June
Zone 3	April – April	June – July	—	August – October
Zone 4	March – April	June – June	—	August – October
Zone 5	March – March	May – June	—	August – October
Zone 6	March – March	May – June	—	July – September
Zone 7	February – March	April – May	—	July – September
Zone 8	February – February	April – May	—	June – August
Zone 9	January – January	March – April	—	May – July
Zone 10	January – January	February – March	—	May – July

Succession Planting

De Milpa keeps producing on the same plant from July through first frost, so there's no reason to stagger plantings the way you would with lettuce or radishes. Start seeds indoors in February or March — germination takes 7–14 days — transplant after last frost in April or May, and those same plants will carry you through September. One sowing per season is all you need. Just make sure you've got at least 2 plants in the ground for cross-pollination, or the harvest question becomes moot.

Complete Growing Guide

In Mexico, these tomatillos grow unattended in family corn fields and are harvested for home use and for selling in town on market day. High dry matter, small to medium-round fruits store fresh for several weeks, handy for fresh salsa. Portions of the fruits blush with purple, especially after harvest. According to Johnny's Selected Seeds, De Milpa is 70 days to maturity, annual, open pollinated. Notable features: Organic Seeds, Plants, and Supplies, Heirloom.

Light: Full sun (6 or more hours of direct sunlight a day). Soil: High Organic Matter, Loam (Silt), Sand. Drainage: Good Drainage, Moist. Height: 3 ft. 0 in. - 4 ft. 0 in. Spread: 3 ft. 0 in. - 4 ft. 0 in. Spacing: 3 feet-6 feet. Growth rate: Rapid. Maintenance: Low, Medium.

Harvesting

De Milpa reaches harvest at 70 days from sowing per Johnny's Selected Seeds. As an annual, harvest continues until frost ends the season.

Round, 1 to 2 inch green or purple berries enclosed in a papery husk have a citrus flavor. They are ripe when they are still firm but fill the husk. Green varieties will turn a yellow green when ripe and purple varieties will turn from green to purple. The papery lantern shaped husks are tan when mature and quite showy.

Color: Gold/Yellow, Green, Purple/Lavender. Type: Berry. Length: 1-3 inches. Width: 1-3 inches.

Garden value: Edible, Showy

Harvest time: Fall, Summer

Edibility: Mature fruits are edible and can be eaten whole with no need to peel core or seed. They can be used for salsa, soups, stews, and meat dishes.

Storage & Preservation

Store freshly harvested De Milpa tomatillos in a cool, dry place between 50–55°F with moderate humidity, ideally in a paper bag or ventilated container to prevent moisture buildup and mold. They'll keep for two to three weeks refrigerated, or up to a month at room temperature if unblemished. For longer storage, freeze whole fruits on a tray before bagging, which works well for sauces and cooked dishes. Roasting and freezing the pulp captures excellent flavor for salsa verde year-round. Canning is reliable when combined with other acidic ingredients; the firm flesh holds up well. Drying is possible but less common given the high water content. De Milpa's thin skin makes it particularly prone to bruising, so handle gently at harvest and inspect regularly during storage, removing any damaged fruit immediately to prevent rot spread.

History & Origin

De Milpa is open-pollinated, meaning seed saved from healthy plants will produce true-to-type offspring. Listed in the Johnny's Selected Seeds catalog.

Origin: Mexico and Central America

Advantages

+Thrives unattended in intercropping systems like traditional milpa gardens
+High dry matter content makes fruits ideal for fresh salsa
+Stores fresh for several weeks without refrigeration needed
+Purple blushing adds visual appeal to harvested fruits

Considerations

-Moderate difficulty level requires some experience to grow successfully
-Smaller fruit size means lower yields per plant than modern varieties
-70-day maturity requires warm season timing in cooler climates

Companion Plants

Marigolds (Tagetes spp.) are worth the bed space here — their root secretions suppress soil nematodes, which matters for anything in the Solanaceae family grown in the same spot multiple years running. Nasturtiums pull double duty as a trap crop for aphids and whiteflies, drawing those populations away from the tomatillo. Basil fits well at 12–18 inches away; the pest-deterrent claims are thinner than their reputation, but you'll be glad it's close at harvest time. Keep fennel at least 10 feet out — it produces allelopathic root compounds that suppress most vegetables, and tomatillo is no exception. Skip corn as a neighbor too: it shares hornworm and whitefly pressure with De Milpa, and the two crops will strip the same nutrients from adjacent beds fast.

Plant Together

Basil

Repels aphids, whiteflies, and hornworms while potentially improving tomato flavor

Marigold

Deters nematodes, aphids, and whiteflies with natural pest-repelling compounds

Carrots

Loosens soil for better tomato root growth and doesn't compete for nutrients

Parsley

Attracts beneficial insects like hoverflies and parasitic wasps that control pests

Nasturtiums

Acts as trap crop for aphids and cucumber beetles, drawing them away from tomatoes

Chives

Repels aphids and may improve tomato growth and flavor through root interactions

Lettuce

Provides living mulch, conserves soil moisture, and doesn't compete with deep tomato roots

Borage

Attracts pollinators and beneficial insects while reportedly improving tomato flavor

Keep Apart

Black Walnut

Releases juglone toxin that causes wilting and stunted growth in tomatoes

Fennel

Inhibits tomato growth through allelopathic compounds released from roots and leaves

Brassicas

Compete heavily for nutrients and may stunt tomato growth when planted too close

Corn

Both attract corn earworm/tomato fruitworm, increasing pest pressure for both crops

Nutrition Facts

Calories

27kcal(1%)

Protein

0.83g(2%)

Fiber

2.1g(8%)

Carbs

5.51g(2%)

Fat

0.63g(1%)

Vitamin C

27.2mg(30%)

Vitamin K

4.2mcg(4%)

Iron

0.33mg(2%)

Calcium

11mg(1%)

Potassium

260mg(6%)

Per 100g serving. % Daily Value based on 2,000 calorie diet. Source: USDA FoodData Central (FDC #321360)

Pests & Disease Resistance

Common Pests

Hornworms, flea beetles, whiteflies (in warm climates)

Diseases

Early blight, septoria leaf spot (in humid conditions), fusarium wilt (rare in well-drained soil)

Troubleshooting De Milpa

What you'll see, why it happens, and what to do about it.

Leaves riddled with small, irregular shot-holes; young foliage looks ragged within the first few weeks after transplant

Likely Causes

Flea beetles (Epitrix spp.) — tiny, jumping beetles that feed on leaf tissue and are worst on young transplants
Transplants set out before they've hardened off, making tissue more attractive to feeding insects

What to Do

1.Cover transplants with floating row cover immediately after setting out; remove once plants are 18 inches tall and established
2.Apply kaolin clay or spinosad if damage is heavy and row cover isn't an option
3.Delay transplanting until plants have 6–8 true leaves — larger plants outgrow flea beetle pressure faster

Lower leaves developing dark brown spots with concentric rings (bullseye pattern), progressing up the plant by mid-summer

Likely Causes

Early blight (Alternaria solani) — soil-borne fungus that splashes onto foliage during rain or overhead irrigation
Dense canopy with poor airflow, especially when plants are spaced closer than 24 inches

What to Do

1.Strip affected lower leaves and dispose of them in the trash, not the compost
2.Lay 3–4 inches of straw or shredded leaf mulch at the base to stop soil splash
3.NC State Extension's IPM guidance recommends rotating out of this bed and away from other Solanaceae for at least 3–4 seasons — longer if disease pressure was severe

Plant wilts suddenly during the day even when soil is moist; doesn't recover overnight

Likely Causes

Southern bacterial wilt (Ralstonia solanacearum) — soilborne pathogen; cut the stem near soil level and look for tan, water-soaked discoloration inside
Fusarium wilt (Fusarium oxysporum) — more likely in poorly drained beds; internal stem tissue shows brown streaking rather than water-soaking

What to Do

1.Dig up and destroy the entire plant including the root system — do not compost it
2.Per NC State Extension, avoid replanting any Solanaceae in that spot for several years; growing in containers with fresh mix is a practical workaround
3.If you go the container route, keep the potting mix from contacting native soil, and don't reuse that mix the following season

Fruit husks stay green and papery but remain marble-sized or smaller and don't fill out by day 70

Likely Causes

Tomatillos require cross-pollination; a single De Milpa plant almost never sets full fruit regardless of flower count
Pollinator activity disrupted by broad-spectrum insecticide applications during bloom

What to Do

1.Grow at least 2 plants spaced 24–30 inches apart — this is not optional for De Milpa, it's structural
2.Stop insecticide applications once flowers open; if you must spray, do it after 7 p.m. when bee activity drops
3.If you have a second plant and still see poor set, transfer pollen between open flowers with a small dry paintbrush

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does De Milpa take to grow from seed to harvest?▼

De Milpa matures in approximately 70 days from transplant to first harvestable fruit. Starting seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before your last frost date means you'll typically harvest 3-4 weeks after transplanting outside. Total time from seed sowing to harvest is roughly 120-140 days, depending on your climate and seedling vigor. Starting indoors accelerates growth compared to direct seeding, which isn't recommended in most climates.

Is De Milpa good for beginners?▼

De Milpa suits gardeners with moderate experience. While the plant itself is forgiving and productive with minimal care, it demands consistent warmth and full sun—skimping on either cuts yields sharply. Beginners in cool climates should use black plastic mulch and wall-o-waters to warm soil. Its most important difference from other tomatillos is its long storage life; harvest timing is less critical since fruits don't spoil quickly. Start with just 2-3 plants to manage early mistakes.

Can you grow De Milpa in containers?▼

Yes, but with caveats. De Milpa develops into a bushy plant 3-4 feet tall and wide, requiring at least a 5-gallon (preferably 10-gallon) container with drainage holes. Container plants dry faster and need more frequent watering and feeding—fertilize every 2-3 weeks instead of 4. Production is typically 30-40% lower than in-ground plants. Choose a location with 6+ hours of unobstructed sunlight. Containers work best in cooler climates where they warm faster than soil.

What does De Milpa taste like compared to other tomatillos?▼

De Milpa delivers a balanced tart-citrus flavor with subtle sweetness, prized for fresh salsa. Its high dry matter (less water content) concentrates flavor and reduces the blended salsa's watery texture that plagues some modern varieties. The taste is closer to traditional Mexican tomatillos than to supermarket tomatillos. Roasted, De Milpa develops deeper, almost herbal undertones. For salsa cruda (fresh), it needs no sweetening, unlike some acidic commercial varieties.

When should I plant De Milpa seeds and transplants?▼

Sow seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before your last spring frost date. Transplant outdoors only after nighttime lows consistently stay above 55°F (55°F soil temperature minimum). De Milpa despises cold; planting too early results in stunted, yellowing plants that never recover productivity. For most gardeners, this means late May or early June. Succession planting isn't necessary—a single planting produces continuously until first frost.

How do I know when De Milpa tomatillos are ripe?▼

Ripeness is simple: the papery husk fills completely with fruit, causing visible seams to crack slightly, and the husk begins paling from green. Fruit diameter reaches 1.5-2 inches and feels firm. Color matters less; harvest when the husk is full, not when fruit blushes purple (that happens indoors). Twist the fruit gently—a ripe De Milpa releases with minimal effort. Slightly firm fruits picked early continue maturing indoors without problems.